Ok,st set the timing on my 86 305TPI/700R4. I put it to 6 BTDC and took it for a ride. It was hesitating A LOT and was very slow, felt like the timing was way off. Then my friend came by and set the timing by ear (don't know how effective thgis is but he does have a lot of experience). I took the car out and it ran great. Plenty of power.

Now there are two possibilities here. 1 is that my timing mark is off somehow. How likely is this to happen?

The second is my timing is rediculously advanced and causing ping and I'm losing power elsewhere.

Now another question, how do I check for ping? Can I rev it in park and listen closely to the motor or does it have to be in gear? What does ping sound like?

Thanks for the help,
-Max

 

Did you disconnect the ESC bypass before you set the base timing?

If so, I'd look for a slipped outer ring on the torsional damper. You shouldn't get much audible knock on that engine, and the only way to check for knock is with a scan tool on one that is running properly.

Without a scan tool, you can lightly tap the knock sensor with a screwdriver handle or similar device and listen for/have a friend watch for the timing to retard.

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1990 IROC 350
Mods: Too busy trying to make it run right to mod it.
Airfoil, Dynomax cat-back, MSD coil, 180 t-stat, Bald Eagle tires,
Hypertech fan switch, Accel 23# injectors, Holley module, ported plenum,
Ported Daytona Yellow stock base, Moroso valve covers, other stuff,
Streetdampr, Ruger P95DC, hot wife, new oil filter, !cats, !TBC, !AIR.
18.0 @ 85MPH since I'm one big-a$$ MF
"It's better to have and not need than to need and not have."

 

Sounds like you forgot to unplug the ESC wire before setting the timing.

 

If your car has lots o' miles, your outer ring on your harmonic balancer could have slipped. Check the rubber to see what condition it is in. If it is cracked, then you need to remove your 305 and put in a 350. If it isn't cracked, then I would say your best plan of action would be to put in a 350. Either way, I think a 350 is the only way to remedy this situation.

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355 c.i.
Dart 180 Heads
Lunati 224/224 cam
Harland Sharp 1.5 rockers
Performer RPM Manifold
Holley 600 cfm double pumper
Hooker Super Competition Headers
Flowmaster Exhaust
Competition Engineering Sub-frame connectors
Super T-10
GM posi 3.42 rear
Hurst Roll Control
13.9@102

 

ROFL

 

really.

check to see if your balancer is in good shape, and if it isnt, the reasonable thing to do would get a new balancer. a fluidampener or one of the like would be a better than stock replacement. also, if there is enough to be audible, pinging will sound like rapid knocking at the top end of your engine. its usually not noticable in park just revving the engine, youd know it if you heard it.


[This message has been edited by u r sofa king we tah did (edited October 16, 2001).]

 

More specifically, a knock sounds like a coffee can with marbles in it when you shake it.

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1990 Pontiac Formula 350
Rebuilt 355
COMPCAMS 212/212 .440/.440 cam
Flowmasters 80 series.

 

dont check for knock in 1st or 2nd gear most cars will have a tendency to since there having to pull all the weight off the line, if you have a scanner (with a friend driving!) watch the "KNK RETARD" value on the scanner at full throttle in passing gr. you finf it'll pull harder with a little bit of ping about 4-6 deg's the O2 vts should be around .8 also, try a base timing of about 12 , make sure to clear the est code when your done . this info was told to me by a local guy who builds some bad *** EFI cars to and worked with chip manufacters in the past.

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87GTA ,10.5:1,4-bolt 355,afr 190's, super ram ,stock poerted base,58mmTB,24 lb FMS inj. ed wright chip, .510/230 (nr) 1&5/8 hooker shorty's, flow master single 3", 2800 ameri-torque non lk-up, 3.73. best to date with stk 48mm tb and lack of traction in 1st gear netted me a 12.9 @110mph /91 TA daily driver LB9 A4 2.73