What can cause the tachometer to be stuck at 7000rpm / and more...
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 930
Likes: 6
From: Sweden
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
What can cause the tachometer to be stuck at 7000rpm / and more...
Now I got another problem on my neck... (please read it, really need your help..)
Sometimes when I been driving around för about 30 mins and the car got running temp and if I shut it down for about ~5 mins its really, really hard to start sometimes.. Need to crank it over for about 8secs and then stop and wait some seconds and then crank again, sometimes the rpm needle jumps all over the place and get stuck at 7000rpm when the car finally starts... if I rew it up (to about 3000rpm I guess) the rpm needle jumps down and starts working again... Is it an bad distributor or ? sometimes the car starts after just 2 secs when its hot...
What can cause this ? bad injectors, to much to little fuel ? Ive tried to change the injector crank but it was no difference..
Dont want to change my new MSD distributor again (changed it for about ~1 month ago...)
And sometimes if I leave it for about 2 hours and get back (its still warm..) its smells unburned fuel when I crank and start it...
Got one large logfile from yesterday (about 40mins of driving..) still got alot of knock retard. and that shaking at stoplights when I got drive in and holding brake, the car shakes and goes down about ~75rpm (kinda like when it misses and goes up and down, and shakes alot)...
Link to the logfile : http://theking.joakimweb.se/z28/tech...j08-ANYH_8.rar
Password : irocztts
And this logfile : http://theking.joakimweb.se/z28/tech...-ANYH_14_B.rar
Password : irocztts
There you can see when the tachometer jumps over 7000rpm... why is it doing this... when thats happening its almost impossible to start it... (and as said before, it dosent happen everytime.. just sometimes, and if i give some throttle to 3000rpm it goes down and starts working again...
Really dont know what to do next. Changed alot of stuff but still it isnt right.. Vacuum holding at 20 when in P and when In gear ~16 to 18 (depending, but this is normal right ? its opening for more air/fuel when in gear right !?..)
and the car kinda "jumps" forward because of the shaking/missing...
All the injectors measured at 15.5 ohms today when it was 220 deg F (idle in the garage before shutting it down...)
The car runs real good when in open loop and the hotter it gets and the longer I drive the worse the shaking/missing gets... on some rotations there is no "missing"/ shaking and the next there it is the shaking/"missing"..
please help me out friends.
Sometimes when I been driving around för about 30 mins and the car got running temp and if I shut it down for about ~5 mins its really, really hard to start sometimes.. Need to crank it over for about 8secs and then stop and wait some seconds and then crank again, sometimes the rpm needle jumps all over the place and get stuck at 7000rpm when the car finally starts... if I rew it up (to about 3000rpm I guess) the rpm needle jumps down and starts working again... Is it an bad distributor or ? sometimes the car starts after just 2 secs when its hot...
What can cause this ? bad injectors, to much to little fuel ? Ive tried to change the injector crank but it was no difference..
Dont want to change my new MSD distributor again (changed it for about ~1 month ago...)
And sometimes if I leave it for about 2 hours and get back (its still warm..) its smells unburned fuel when I crank and start it...
Got one large logfile from yesterday (about 40mins of driving..) still got alot of knock retard. and that shaking at stoplights when I got drive in and holding brake, the car shakes and goes down about ~75rpm (kinda like when it misses and goes up and down, and shakes alot)...
Link to the logfile : http://theking.joakimweb.se/z28/tech...j08-ANYH_8.rar
Password : irocztts
And this logfile : http://theking.joakimweb.se/z28/tech...-ANYH_14_B.rar
Password : irocztts
There you can see when the tachometer jumps over 7000rpm... why is it doing this... when thats happening its almost impossible to start it... (and as said before, it dosent happen everytime.. just sometimes, and if i give some throttle to 3000rpm it goes down and starts working again...
Really dont know what to do next. Changed alot of stuff but still it isnt right.. Vacuum holding at 20 when in P and when In gear ~16 to 18 (depending, but this is normal right ? its opening for more air/fuel when in gear right !?..)
and the car kinda "jumps" forward because of the shaking/missing...
All the injectors measured at 15.5 ohms today when it was 220 deg F (idle in the garage before shutting it down...)
The car runs real good when in open loop and the hotter it gets and the longer I drive the worse the shaking/missing gets... on some rotations there is no "missing"/ shaking and the next there it is the shaking/"missing"..
please help me out friends.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,108
Likes: 8
From: Moneta, VA
Car: 89 formula 350
Engine: ls1 magnuson tvs2300 supercharger
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.11 Dana 44!
Re: What can cause the tachometer to be stuck at 7000rpm / and more...
ignition module. Remove it and bring it to advance auto. Make them test it a dozen times so it gets hot. They fail hot, not cold...hence testing it a lot of times.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 930
Likes: 6
From: Sweden
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: What can cause the tachometer to be stuck at 7000rpm / and more...
Will it make the tachometer to jump around all over the the gauge and get stuck sometimes too ?
The ignition module can be removed without removing the distributor right ? Shall I get some silicone dielectric grease too ? when I install the new one ?
You are shure that, thats my problem ?! Could that make it run bad when its getting hotter to ?? kinda like missing ?
Supreme Member
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,108
Likes: 8
From: Moneta, VA
Car: 89 formula 350
Engine: ls1 magnuson tvs2300 supercharger
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.11 Dana 44!
Re: What can cause the tachometer to be stuck at 7000rpm / and more...
It can definitely cause your symptoms, and they are known to go bad. Get it tested at a parts store. I'm not positive this is your problem but its prob a good place to start. And yes, I believe you need to put dielectric grease on the bottom of the module when you reinstall it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 930
Likes: 6
From: Sweden
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: What can cause the tachometer to be stuck at 7000rpm / and more...
I also think one of my injectors are bad, because when i removed the power to cylinder nr 5 there was no change in the idle / shaking... but when I removed the #1, #3 there was alot of difference in the rpm... Will do some more test on this... but that wouldnt make it get stuck at 7000rpm ? right ?...
maybe there is an combination of maybe an bad injector (or more) and maybe an bad ignition module ?...
the car also (after not starting when I have to crank it for a long time,) theres a LOUD clicking from the injectors and the rpm is around 1800rpm... and goes down after 1 minute.. what will do that, the vacuum is good ... maybe its getting to much fuel and not that good spark because of an bad ignition module ?
Thanks for all your help
maybe there is an combination of maybe an bad injector (or more) and maybe an bad ignition module ?...
the car also (after not starting when I have to crank it for a long time,) theres a LOUD clicking from the injectors and the rpm is around 1800rpm... and goes down after 1 minute.. what will do that, the vacuum is good ... maybe its getting to much fuel and not that good spark because of an bad ignition module ?
Thanks for all your help
Re: What can cause the tachometer to be stuck at 7000rpm / and more...
i had the same problem you did in my 91 rs tpi 350 i took apart the dizzy and and the pickup coil was shot and soo was the modual i recomend replaceing the pickup coil at the same time i have read on here the pickup coil is 50% of the time why the icm ***** the bed
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 930
Likes: 6
From: Sweden
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: What can cause the tachometer to be stuck at 7000rpm / and more...
yeah and when I try to start the rpm needle jumps all over the place (should be pretty stable and follow the rpm...)
So I think the ignition module and / or pickup is bad again... or I got bad ones in exchange... still waiting for what to do...
Already changed the ignition module and pickup once, problem was gone 2 days and then came back... seems like I got a bad module again...
As said , still waiting for MSDs answer on this.. really wanna drive something this year...
So I think the ignition module and / or pickup is bad again... or I got bad ones in exchange... still waiting for what to do...
Already changed the ignition module and pickup once, problem was gone 2 days and then came back... seems like I got a bad module again...
As said , still waiting for MSDs answer on this.. really wanna drive something this year...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post






