Alright guys here goes.

I have a 1992 Formula 350

When it was mostly stock it ran a 14.49@95 at Houston Raceway Park. I was pleased. Since then I have added SLP 1 3/4 headers, airfoil, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil. I had a problem with my tranny but got it solved. (Governor broke) Also my rearend pinion bearing basically ate it and it along with the pinion seal have been replaced.

I had a problem with the EGR solenoid thing when my starter wire grabbed on one of the headers and shorted. The starter wire along with the solenoid were replaced. I have the timing set to 2* before TDC.

My car is running slower times. Last weekend I was at Idalou Raceway in Lubbock Texas. I ran a best of 15.72@87. According to NHRA guidelines, I am still running a 15.3. This really sucks.

I feel that there is a flat spot in my low end torque. My car really doesn't pick up as hard as it should until I hit 3000 rpm. This really bothers me because I have a TPI car and only have about 1500 rpm left at that point to get moving. Don't get me wrong, it still picks up, but after 3000 rpm there is a surge in power.

Ok what I am asking is your opinion on what could be wrong witht he car, or what could be tuned wrong thats causing it to run slower than it should, etc. Every idea is welcome. Please help me out.

Adam

 

timing
stock is 6 degrees BTDC
put it at 8 BTDC and put some good gas in
i don't know that that will account for the 8mph loss but it'll get some of it back
Andrew

 

I would advance the timing about 8-10 degrees and see how it runs, that timing is way retarded =D

How many miles are on the car? How does it sound/run?

 

I have had it way out there and it runs bad there as well. If I go past about 6 it will die when I shift out of neutral or park. Like it has low vacuum and just dies. At 2* it wont do that, and has decent power. This is why I am replacing my timing chain in a few weeks. But I am wondering if that can account for the total drop in power or if there is more to the issue.

 

143,000 miles. It is a strong runner and always has been. Just for some reason its not making power like it should be.

 

btw, I always run 92 octane gas.

 

Any more ideas?

 

I'd suspect one or both of the cats are plugged. Take the cats off and you should be able to see light through them. As the others said, your base timing should be at 6-8 degrees BTDC.

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Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 355TPI/A4

 

Im gonna agree with everyone else and say that your timing is causing your problems. With it set at 2* BTDC it would probably run well, and you would definetly feel a boost in power when the computer advances the timing in the higher rpm. I'd say set it to 8* BTDC if you have a stock chip, if you have an aftermarket chip leave it at 6* BTDC. Hopefully that will get your car back to normal.
peace

 

You said it won't idle at 6 or 8* timing? are you disconnecting that brown wire before you set the timing? If not it should read like in the 20s* range at idle b/c the computer is advancing the timing. Vaccum leaks? Make sure you are setting the timing correctly. Tell us exactly how you are doing it? I say your timing is way off. Like over 20* retarded.

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14.62@96mph headers, muffler, chip, ghetto stuff, duct tape
89 GTA 305 TPI 5 speed 3.42 gears

 

When I set the timing I disconnect the wire up by the firewall, I was shown that was the one to disconnect the computer- I don't know if it is brown I can look in a little while. I use a timing light as I turn the distributor. I will try going back to 8* again today and see how it runs.

Greg- Could plugged cats really slow a car down that much? One of them has been rattling a little for a while now, but I didn't think it was that bad. I didn't think they could effect performance that much either. I need to have one of them replaced as it is, maybe I'll just get some catco's and maybe it would help (assuming they are clogged)?

 

The wire I am talking about is on the passenger side near the fender and about 8 inches from the firewall, kinda near the black cover thing. Kinda behind the smog stuff.

 

The EST wire to disconnect is above the firewall on the passenger side of the car and right underneath the cowl. Yes, a plugged cat(s) will really kill the power on any car. If one of them is rattling, the brick inside may be loose and blocking the airflow through the cat. Do you have dual cats or a single cat?

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Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 355TPI/A4

 

I have dual cats, one of them sounds like it rattles some when I drive around. I am 90% sure I disconnected the right wire.

 

Not sure if were thinking the same place, it's right by the heater fan box, A/C condeser?(aluminum can looking thing) close to the passerger fender, not close to the engine at all. It's the exact same connector and similar colored wire, but the wrong one is close to the engine near the smog stuff, while the other is like ~2+' away from the engine right by the heater/ac fan box. Your check engine light should be on while adjusting timing.(that wire will make it turn on when disconnected.)

 

Yeah that is the one I am talking about. The SES light is on when I adjust it.

 

I bumped the timing up to 8* tonight. I think it helped it some, its not doing that idling problem like it was before. Yeah the wire I was talking about was indeed the brown one. Thanks for the input guys, I'll be going to the track soon and if its still running bad times ill post again...

 

Alright, just making sure, since I read the "book" and posts on here and still had a hard time finding that wire and alot easier time finding a different wire closer to the back of the passenger side valve cover. Well that was pretty much my only guess, maybe a fouled plug? good luck.