iv got an 89 355 tpi with the t56 conversin iv been trying to get it to run right for some time now it throws a code 42 and will run (or not) 3 ways well the first is to not run at all in this condition it has fuel and spark 2nd is it will run at the normal 8 deg and run fine .. 3rd it will run at what looks like 25 deg or so (which is strait up towards the hood) all with the bypass wire unhooked but in condition 3 if you get anywhere near the marker it shuts down now i was under the impression that if you unhook the bypass wire that took the computer out of the equation but if thats true it should sit at 8 and run all day so my ? is what's changing my timing if i take my 4 wire connector off will the car run at mechanical timing like a non computer car or not at all aka will the injectors fire without the 4 wire connector ask every friend you have someone knows how to fix this i cant be the first! i love my car (too much some say) but its getting really hard to not just get rid of it and buy a good reliable fuel efficient car plus iv only got about fifteen grand in it over the last 6 years and it may be worth 500.00 not running i really dont want to give up so please help.

 

i finally got it running again i barley runs but i got a timing light on it and now its further advanced? it just keeps going backwards also iv noticed that with the ignition on and car not running i can turn the distributor a little fast either way and it resets the fuel pump if i do it slow it wont do it is this normal?

 

turning the distributor will cause the pump to run. is the harmonic balancer junk causing the reading. if you disconnect the bypass the timing should not move unless you move it.

 

like Driver said, make sure the balancer is good, the outter ring can slip & cause problems with setting the timing.

if the balancer is good, it sounds like you've got problems with either the distributor, wiring or the ECM.
it will set code 42 when you start it with the timing set connector unplugged.
turning the distributor with the key on will cause the fuel pump to turn on.
when you turn it, the ECM sees a reference pulse from the distributor.
make sure the rotor & cap are in good condition.

first thing to check is the reluctor wheel in the distributor, sometimes they can come loose & turn on the shaft. if that happens it causes all kinds of strange run problems.
next thing is the pickup coil. if it checks bad or the wires on it look in bad shape, replace it.
if you have already replaced the pickup coil or the distributor, some times the wires on the pickup coil are reversed. this will also cause strange run problems or a no start.

the next thing is the module. the only sure way to check it is to replace it. checking it with the machine at autozone may show it to be good when it is in fact bad.
if you do replace it, i recommend using an A/C delco module.
if you replace the module, i recommend replacing the ignition coil too if its very old.
a complete reman distributor isn't too expensive, so that is an option to rebulding your old one.

nextthing is to check the wiring between the distributor & ECM. also check all the grounds.
if everything has checked good or has been replace at this point & it still has problems, its time to try another ECM, preferably one that is known to be good.
lastly is the chip. the chip causing this type of problem is rare but it does happen.

i doubt its a problem with the distributor gear or the timing chain. if it was the chain, it would keep jumping & turn into a no start. if it was the gear, it probably wouldn't start now.

 

i actually had that happen on the same car different motor my balancer spun but then the car ran perfect if i timed it by ear this wont run perfect in any condition iv all ready changed the pickup cleaned and reassembled dist iv changed the ignition mod 3 times i didn't check the wheel spasifically is this something i would have noticed during reassembly ? the dist spun fine the points on the wheel didn't touch the outside which iv had happen before the wires on the pickup are the way they were from the factory but i did try switching them and it wouldn't run at all i should have mentioned this is a new rebuild so its got a new chain and gears i also have a hyperteck prom and my original prom and have switched them out and nothing changes so i im going out there now to do a continuity test on the 4 wire connector if thats good ill go blow the cash on a new comp

 

A reman dist runs around $99 and will come with a new module. Try AZ or one of the others. The module WILL still provide some rudimentary advance with the EST disconnected. This advance will be solely based on RPM-kinda a built in limp home timing curve-although it's not really a curve-you'll see a sudden jump in timing as an rpm setpoint is reached.

If the two wire connector inside the dist to the module is flipped it will also cause some funky timing issues. A bad reluctor is also a common problem. If your tach is jumping it's definitely time for a new dist.

 

well the quest is over after more than a year and 6000.00$ unde the hood alone (that includes the t56) she is finally running and running well with exception of the speedo issue that will have to wait until i get the 550$ or i find a cheaper way it is trowing a code 24 but ill find a way to deal wit that it turns out it was the computer all along i think it was a combo between that and a bad connection to the ignition module i made the trek to the junk yard got a new plug for the 4 pin wired it in bought a new comp from az and boom it started right up i set the timing at 8 base plugged the bypass wire back in and vualla no service engine light i think my heart skipped a beat it just feels like home driving my girl again is it wrong to love an inanimate object so much ? thank god for small victory's iv been waiting a long time for this one. thanks for the input guys good luck on all your car ventures . see you on the boards