I have a 1992 Camaro with the 350 5.7L engine. My Fuel Pump crapped out today and the shop that a took it to quoted 200 to 800 dollars to fix it. I saw online new pumps for 50 to 70 dollars. How hard would it be to do it myself? I know i would need to drop the gas tank, but does anyone know from experience how hard it would be? I dont want to start and screw somehting up...

please pm me or email me at mvtrumpetgeek13@yahoo.com

thanks!!

 

It's a pita. Be prepared to replace parts that you may have to cut out because they're rusted solid.
Otherwise it's simply jacking up the rear
lower the rear axle as far as it will go
disconnect all lines going to the top of the tank
disconnect the fuel tank straps
see how far you can get the tank
then realize that most likely you'll have to cut out the track bar because the HARDENED bolts are rusted solid inside the track bar sleeves.
My first time took 4 hours.

Don't forget to drain as much gas from your tank as you can. Gas gets heavy when you're trying to bench press the tank and get it into a position that'll allow it to come out.

 

An alternative to dropping the tank, is to go thru the rear hatch. It all depends on how you feel about cutting some sheet metal. I believe I was able to do it with just a set of tin snips. In my opinion it was well worth it, nobody is gonna see it anyway.

The only downside to this is that you have to cut your fuel lines in order to pull the the assembly up thru the hole you cut. This isn't terribly difficult, just make sure you cut the hole large enough that you have room to work when you are splicing the fuel lines back together. I think the hole I cut was about 8" x 8". If I had to do it again I would probaby make it just slightly bigger. I used standard compression fittings for the splicing. Try to offset your cuts slightly, so that the compression fittings aren't directly next to each other and you will have a much easier time getting them tight.

Be sure to seal the hole up nice and tight when you are done too. I used a piece of sheet metal, plenty of caulking and a few sheet metal screws for good measure.

Doing it this way may not save you a bunch of time, but it will probably save you some headaches.

Good Luck!!

 

hopefully they wont be rusted soloid! i hope not....
what kind of fuel pump did u get...?
i might just go ahead and try and if i think its gonna be too hard, i'll just bring it to the shop...
4 hours doesnt seem too bad, what other replacement parts did you need?

i really dont want to start cutting holes in the body... im not that experienced, thanks though!


thanks for all the help

 

I got a Walbro high pressure/volume pump.

I had to replace my track bar and panhard bar's due to the bolts being completely rusted inside the sleeve's.

 

thanks i might ask more questions as i start the project, if i do end up doing it myself.

 

Personally I don't think its as hard as a lot of people make it out to be. My dad, a good friend and I had never done it before and took us about 2 and a half hours. We really took our time and didn't read any manuals or instructions at all. We didn't even touch the rear end. Just pulled my catback from the over the axle pipe (just took off the muffler and tips), and dropped the tank. The car was up on jackstands so the rear was lowered as far as the suspension would let it go but that was it.

Do yourself a favor and don't do the hack job door in the hatch routine. IMO it's not worth it. Plus you also don't need to cut any of the stock lines. Just be careful and it will go fine.

 

Its not hard at all, just alot of bolts to keep track of. Raise the car as far off the ground as possible. Disconnect the struts, disconnect the sway bar and panhard bar and remove the tires. Let the rear end and the exhaust hang as low as possible to the ground...then drop the gas tank, remove the sender and pump housing, replace pump and do everything all over again, but in reverse order

 

I don't consider my method to be a "hack job". I prefer to think of it as " a
straightforward, user-friendly procedure" to overcome a poor factory engineering design that can often lead to the replacement of multiple unrelated parts. Besides, I didn't even use duct tape or a wire coat-hanger

 

wow that really helps guys, it kinda scared me thinking i was gonna have to start messing around with the rear end, but if its as easy as you guys say, i should be fine, my dad knows a lot about cars, and i have a car enthusiast neighbor that does a lot of diy stuff, so i think ill be in good shape.

thanks
and once again, once i start the project, i might cry for help...

 

If your car has always been a so-cal car. I doubt you will come across much rust.


1. Make sure you empty the gas tank as much as you can before you start the job. My first try had over half a tank. THAT SUCKED!!

2. Get the *** of the car up as high as you can and safely. You need alot of space because you gotta spin the gas tank to get it out... and back in.

3. Before you disconnect any fuel lines. Make sure the gas cap is off, and you have released the pressure from the line up at the motor.


I advise getting a true GM pump. I was once told the GM corvette pumps had metal gears rather then plastic for camaros?? Dunno.

Take your time, do it right. My first time took a whole day, sun-up to sun-down. My last one took about 3hrs.

 

i doubt rust will be a problem for you you do live in CA its pretty easy if your not a tard HCR13 pretty much nailed except for the tires they can stay and the sway bar too they can be a PITA