i have i 305 tpi b4c that i'm trying to rebuild it had the g92 pn10111773 camshaft in it. duration 202/207,gross lift .413/.428,lobe114.5, i want a cam that could take place of that cam because they don't sell that cam anymore, what would be a good cam to put in my 305 tpi 5 speed i don't want to do computer work and its not mas air its speed density

 

Why not a stock LT1 93'-97' F-body or Y-Body camshaft? They are similar in size and will run on the stock EPROM.

 

I am using comp cams xr258hr12. I put about 7K miles on it with the stock speed density program, and it ran good, idled nice and pulled all the way to 5K. Was getting 22 mpg on the highway. Now it is getting a custom wide band tune and I am excited to see what she does.
The specs on the cam are as follows:
206int 212exh at 0.050in
.480 int .488in exh. with 1.5 rocker arm ratio
LSA 112*
The car sounds nice, a bit more aggressive than stock.

 

i had someone else say that cam was good also but i was told with stock heads i didn't want to go over .400 of lift. what is ur opinion on that.

 

If your engine is out of the car and your heads are off, you should have your heads rebuilt by a machine shop with new springs and valve guide seals. The machine shop can make sure that you have the correct clearance for the amount of lift the cam has. I did not have any problems with my car. I think that what I have heard varies. Some people say that they can get away with .5 lift, others say that they run out at .45 lift. You need to have the clearance measured to make sure that you don't run into problems. It is a pretty easy thing to do when you are getting your heads rebuilt.

 

The only cam you can put in place of the stock cam on a speed density setup and have it work correctly is the STOCK cam. Any other changes should be associated with computer tuning.

You can still get the 773 cam, just not from GM. Look on Napa Online, look for a 1990 Camaro 5.7, they will have a reproduction of the factory cam available. I know because I just bought one for a Caprice 350 9C1 engine I was putting togather for a friend with a B-body.

 

here is what i got from the one on napa

Intake Lift (Inches):.274"
Intake Lift (mm):6.949 mm
Exhaust Lift (Inches):.285"
Exhaust Lift (mm):7.234 mm
Cam Type:Hydraulic
Intake Duration:207 Deg.
Exhaust Duration:214 Deg.
Lobe Centerline (Intake):117 Deg.
Lobe Centerline (Exhaust):117 Deg.
Lope Separation:117 Deg.
Product Features:O.E.M Replacement
Overlap:40 Deg.

the specs i found on my cam are

duration 202/207
gross lift .414/.428
lobe 114.5

your a big help and i appreciate it. what is your opinion on this. do i have the wrong specs or is that as close as i'm going to get

 

I know that putting anything other than a stock cam in is going to require some tuning, but quite frankly even a stock engine can benefit from a tune. With the comp cam I have in my car, I have not had any problems. It idles fine, it drives fine. It gets a little jerky some times below 1500 rpm, and fuel economy was 1 or 2 miles / gallon lower, otherwise it seemed fine and sounded nice. All of this is with the stock timing and fuel pressure. You can drive the car until you find somebody to tune it, or until you can figure out how to tune it yourself. I think that it is a worthy upgrade that can open a new realm of possibilities for you.

 

well this is what happen i appreciate all ur guys help. i have a 92 camaro b4c (police interceptor) tpi 305 speed density. i bought it when i turned 18 rode it to hard spun a rod bearing i took it to the shop and they put the stock z28 back in it they didn't know that in 92 they had two differant 305's that year well either did i (they put the smaller cam in it and 1.5 rockers) when i got it back it starts right up then about two min after running it starts lopeing really bad then dies. and when i drive it i will start doing it and try to die when i'm driving and when i'm driving at one constant speed the check engine light will come on. i have talked to a bunch of people about it they all tell me its not the cam i just figured i would put it back to what the computer wants and if i still have the problem go from there. sorry about the long story. doe sanyone know what it is. please help me out the car was bad fast for stock when i got it now its slow i lost a lot of power

 

If they put a TBI cam in it you will lose power and your car is not going to run as well since the computer wasn't calibrated with that small of a cam. If I were you, I would take your car back to them and have them fix it right and put a correct cam shaft in it. They could have also screwed up the valve timing too. Who knows. I basically have the same car as you and had a similar problem. It wasn't I that drove too hard, but the previous owner. He drag raced the car badly and after I got it the engine developed a rod bearing knock. I took my car to a reputable shop, where they rebuilt the engine from the oil pan to the geads and installed the comp cams in it. When they pulled the motor apart, they found two bent connecting rods, and the crank where the bearing had failed was wornout too much. So I got a new crank, connecting rods pistong and the whole nine yards. The engine block was bored .020 over and decked 0.020. I decided to upgrade the cam at that time and that's when I went with the comp cams. They gave me a 2 year 24000 mile warranty on the rebuild and the engine runs very nicely. I am very happy with the job they did. If you are looking for a cheap replacement cam, I guess an LT1 cam could be found cheaply and would work OK with the stock program. I am sure that you will get alot more power out of it than with the small cam. I hope you get your issues resolved.
Also make sure you save all your receipts and things like that in case they give you a hard time and you have to look for other means of settling the problem.

 

i would and i want to bad but before i found out what it was i ran my warrenty up

 

Just buy a lingenfelter l98 cam, and be done with it.. dont foget an AFPR.

 

Take that .274" lift and multiply it by 1.5 ratio rocker arm and it equals .411" lift @ the valve....
.286" lift X 1.5= .429" lift @ the valve so you don't have the wrong specs....

I'm not sure what's making the car run like that though......?