runningagain

I am beating a dead horse. I have searched the threads. I set the timming to 0, I know the prom said 6, it ran ok, still the miss at idle. I set the timming back to 6 and I got the code for rich. I tested the pickup coil, it reads 750 ohms, I am going to put a ground wire straight to the dizzy. I have a 180 t-stat now but will change back to the 195. I have TRYED everything for the past YEAR. I live near Springfield MO, i there anyone that lives near me that can help?

irocuroc

what is everything? did you check egr valve.

birdtojag

iTrader: (1)

Would have to be something in the fuel system or the MAF. Unplug the MAF and see how it drives. Your check engine light will be on but the MAF has a base setting in the computer. Also check your plugs and wires. Make sure they are in good condition. May need to get a data logger on the car to see what the computer is reading on the sensors.

runningagain

I have a 730 ecm speed density system. No pollution or egr. New parts; HSR, BBK 52mm tb, dizzy, injectors, harness, 180 t-stat, tps, cts, mat, map. I have 18inch of vacuum at idle. I use tuner pro rt, ALWAYS has a mis at idle, scanner shows all good except the blm goes to 96, the int goes from 115 to 90. When first started the afr is 10.00? then starts to climb till it gets to 14.7 then freezes and is shown in red. I am using the aujp bin, I have done a little tuning to that bin but it should'nt be that far off. I was told to lower the injector constant to reduce to fuel but that's not the way to fix it. My fuel pressure is 40 at idle and 45 with the vacuum disconnected. I have no idea what to try next.

irocuroc

what injectors are you running? make and size

runningagain

The injectors are from FIC, Bosh 22lb design III. Bought about six months ago. The injector constant is at 22.08. I found a thead about altenator volt, I noticed it going from 13.9 to 14.1 and mine is a 66 amp from an 86 truck, I only have the lug on the back hooked up and not the two connector plug on the top. It went to the idiot gauge. Will that work?

irocuroc

i run my consTANT AT 21 BECAUSE I HAD 21 EXCELLS BEFORE THE BOSCH 3.. MY BLM HANG AT 128.. ARE YOU SURE YOU ARE NOT SUCKING AIR SOMEWHERE, EGR, UNDER MANIFOLD FROM CRANKCASE WHERE YOU CAN'T DETECT. YOU SAY THE TPS IS RIGHT ON? I SAY VAC LEAK SOMEWHERE.. INTERNAL VAC LEAKS DO HAPPEN IN THE L SERIES A LOT.. DON'T COUNT THAT OUT. ALSO THE RUNNER GASKETS ON THE BOTTOM HAVE A LEFT AND A RIGHT.. BUT WILL FIT EITHER SIDE.. THERE IS A DIFFERENCE FOR THE EGR TUBE. CHECK THOSE OUT IF THEY ARE REVERSED THE CAR WILL RUN LIKE CRAP AND THE VAC LEAK WILL BE UNDERNEATH SO ITS HARD TO DETECT. SOMETHING IS SENSING TO MUCH AIR TO RICHEN IT UP THAT MUCH.. I SHOULD OF READ YOUR POST ALL THE WAY.. I SEE YOU HAVE NO EGR.. HAS THIS BEEN HAPPENING BEFORE YOU REPLACED RUNNER GASKETS? AND INJECTORS.. IS YOUR COLD START STILL IN THERE. OR IS IT A LATER MANIFOLD

Damon

How about a leaky injector? That would explain the miss at idle and the ECM throwing a rich code at idle. At higher RPMs/load the effect of a leaky injector is less pronounced.

Idling is actually one of the more difficult things for an engine to do. There is such a small amount of air and fuel going into an engine it doesn't take much in the way unmetered air or fuel sneaking in to throw things pretty far off.

irocuroc

could be thats why i was wondering if the CSV was still in there and plumbed.. They spit constantly if bad.. its easy to check also

runningagain

I am running the holly stealth ram intake. Yes it acts like a vacuum leak. I have replaced the intake gaskets for a second time, felpro 1250. irocuroc, you stated under manifold where you can't detect? I can try pluging the pcv valve to check. You are talking about the bottom of the intake gasket leaking into the crankcase? When I replaced the gaskets I used the wedge washers for the four center bolts that have the steeper angle. How would you know or test if there is a leak in the crank case? Damon you have a good point, I know it don't take much to throw the mix out of wack. The injector are only about six months old, I can send them back to fuel injector connect to have John check them but they should be good. I have a set of 24lb injectors I could try but I was told they are too big for my nearly stock setup.

irocuroc

to check for a vac leak under the intake you could use the old smoke method.. get a good cigar and unhook the vac hose from the power brake booster. take a big hit and blow the smoke into the intake and see if it comes out of the pcv hole. also if there is a leak anywhere it will come out.. backing up take a few good hits and blow as much smoke as you can.. most engines like philly blunts..
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forgot this, if its a leaky injector it will show up in a fuel pressure check.. get a guage and hook it to the schraeder port.. turn on the pump.. see if it holds pressure after the pump shuts off. do you smell raw fuel? are the plugs all fouled or just 1 or 2..

runningagain

I will try the "philly blunt method" but I won't inhale. The fuel pressure holds at 40, steady. Plugs look good, I am using accel shorty u groove plugs gaped at .35.

runningagain

I found that my vacuum line to my heater was leaking so I disconnected it, I could'nt force any smoke through, as soon as I let up the smoke blew right back in my face. My laptop is being worked on so I can't datalog right now but I know there is no improvement. The rpm flutters only a couple hundred rpm's, the vacuum goes back and forth from 18-19 inches, oil pressure moves around too because of rpm. Any other tests I can do? I have checked all mechanical and came up empty handed, I can't take it to a shop because I don't have 50 bucks an hour to have it looked at.

runningagain

I tried to hold the idle at 2000 and it went all over the place, and went to about 1500, like a bad miss then backfired out the exhaust! Would a vacuum leak cause that? It sounds ore like spark to me, mabe the dizzy, it is new but does'nt mean it's good. I checked the ohms on the pickup coil and came up with 750 but I don't know if that is good or bad, have to check the chilton's book. I am thankful for the help.

irocuroc

you can't blow smoke thru the heater control hose because it has a solonoid or actuater it should not be connected to open vac port, thats why you cant blow in it.. you have to use a direct port either pwr brake or pcv.. i bet my butt you have a vac leak.. especially with a blm of 100+- you do this with the engine off

runningagain

Small cofusion, my heater vents are vacuum controled, I used the brake booster hose to blow smoke into the back of the plenum, I found smoke comming out of that vacuum port so I blocked it off. other that that I could'nt force ANY smoke into the plenum at all. merry x-mas. Yes engine off.

rgarcia63

So did you deprogram the EGR from the ECM?

runningagain

I copied a bin aujp 8d that I thought egr was disabled, not sure, could you tell me the correct way.

rgarcia63

I assume you can data log, look at the EGR duty cycle % value. You can also pause the playback in Tunerpro and click on the playback slider button you'll see the slider highlight then use the left/right arrows to control the playback.

If its zero all the time then the EGR is disabled. Whether it's deprogrammed, or not being requested because all the conditions aren't being satisfied can only be determined by checking the status of all EGR settings.
I only change one setting to keep the ECM from commanding EGR flow.
My bin is arap_6E. If the Disable EGR if Mat is < X value is .05 I can see the value in the EGR Duty Cycle % changing. When I change the MAT < X value to 255 EGR % is always Zero.

Whether this is the right, or only way I don't know, but it works for me.

runningagain

I don't have my laptop back yet, I have dataloged and can check to see the duty cycle. What I did was compare bins of one, 730ramjet350no_smog, I changedthe settings to match. I can't find a vacuum leak, I am tired of chacing problems, I am going to find a used intake dizzy and CARB to make sure the problem is not in the heads or the bottom end. Jst TIRED of not having wheels!

88TransAmFreak

iTrader: (15)

*Subscribes*

That's the EXACT problem I'm having, My fuel pressure is fine. My vacuum fluctuates between 18 - 20. Timing is set at 6* btdc with base timing plug unhooked.

ALL my parts are brand new, I even installed new heads and a engine (blew my first one up due to this - dumped fuel in my engine and washed the cylinder walls)

I even have a new distributor, plug wires, replaced all the gaskets, rebuilt injectors, new computer, custom chip, new throttle body, ...all sensors are new.

Even my alternator / battery has been replaced.......car still runs like crap.

If I figure anything out I'll let you know

runningagain

I checked the egr stuff used another bin to relate to and now have stalling and exhaust stick issues. Got to get my laptop back. I don't know if I am getting anywhere, I will post my findings.

Tootie Pang

iTrader: (2)

"... I will post my findings."

No, you apparently won't.