I have a 1991 Camaro Z28 with a 5.7 TPI engine. The mods to the engine are: bored .30 over, ported heads, 1.6 roller rockers, a hydraulic roller cam,
mini-ram intake , 58 mm holley throttle body, and headers. This is a new a motor and still not yet been broken in. To manage the motor I bought the EBL flash system. It seem like a good system, although I have been having trouble getting the car to idle but I not spent that much time playing with the EBL system to get it tuned right. This isn't my biggest problem though. When I was running the car at around 2500 rpm for a couple minutes to break in the cam on side of the motor got really hot. The headers of that side were glowing orange, once I saw this I shut off the car. After waiting a minute or so the cooler sides headers were already cool enough to touch, while the hotter sides headers I wouldn't dare to touch. I don't really know how hot the engine got on the hotter side cause the coolant temp sensor is on the cooler side and according to it the engine only got 175 F. Any ideas?

 

Roller cam doesn't need breaking in.

 

Check your valve lash and forget about breaking in the cam.

 

Check for exhaust leaks from head to Cat.

 

if you have mulec injectors, ohm check them, if 1 or 2 are bad thats your problem. a lean cyl will be hot

 

running lean, heads from older non harden exhaust seats and valves are sucking down into the heads, coolant passages blocked or pluged, exhaust pluged on one side....

was the original motor rebuilt or a different motor installed, i ask because you stated roller cam as up grade and the factory cam in a 91 was a roller cam, or was it a larger roller cam than the 204 or 207 that they came with?

like the others here kinda pointed out the a roller cam does not need broken in, but the rings and bearing do.

once you have everything done you may want to make sure the spring pressure was not effected by the high heat on that side.

 

Check yout timming!!

 

How would timing affect one side and not the other?

 

 

The heads have new valve seats, the exhaust is new so i don't think it's an exhaust clog, and there shouldn't be a coolant clog either.

It is the original motor rebuilt, here is a link to the cam specs http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-08-422-8&autoview=sku

 

Have your injectors been cleaned or replaced. It sounds like a lean fuel condition on one bank. One or two injectors running lean could cause the overheating on that bank.

 

With some help from another member i figured out that one of the injector fuses was blown. The "fuel injector feed #1" fuse. I put a new fuse in and it blew right out again once i tried to start the car again. Any ideas?

 

Make sure you are using the same size fuse on both the #1 and the #2 injector fuses. If someone previously substituted a smaller fuse for #1 that would be the problem. If the fuse spec is correct, you have a short. Recheck your ohm readings on the injectors on that side with them unplugged to see if you have shorted injector coil. If the injectors on that side check out ok, you probably have a wire that has been pinched or chafed and is grounding on something. Take the wires out of the loom and look for signs of damage.