Alright so heres the problem, the car runs perfect when its cold BUT when it warms up and you turn it off if you dont let it cool the whole way down i get not even 20 ft and it starts sputtering and turns off sometimes itl stay running it only shut off once. Im not sure what to start with i just changed the coil and coolent temp sensor for the computer. I have a new fuel filter im just to fat to get under it with my POS jack and jack stands. So i really need help cant make it to school today cause i was late and had to turn around. Any and all help is greatly apreciated. Thanks in advance Nate

 

I don't know, but if I remember correctly there have been some heat-soak issues with ignition modules but I can't remember what models. I was just trying to think of things that heat-soak would effect to cause such symptoms. Hopefully some others with better memory will see this and post.

 

Could be ignition module or even dying injectors.

 

Were is the ignition module???

 

Inside the distributor below the armature. It has the 2 sets of wires/connectors attached to it.
That can be tested for free at most auto parts stores.

 

OHM check the multec injectors.. they hate being hot if they are shorted. should ohm out at 14-16 if there are any below 10 they are toast.

 

I hate to sound likea noob how do i test the injectors??

 

Use a conductivity meter to measure the resistance across terminals of the injector where the connector from the harness goes.

 

alright ill try that. So the ICM is under the distributer its self or just the cap??

 

Cap.

 

Alrighty sweet thanks ill try that out

 

I had a simalar porblem a few years ago car would start cold ok but as it warmed up would loose power and would die every time turned out to be bad cap and rotor to much of a gap between cap and rotor balade and there cheap so if yo pull the cap to check the icm i would recomment to replace the cap and rotor jsut so you know there good.

 

I was thinking about that cause i hear accels stuff isnt good and its a accel cap and rotor. Ill try that too thanks

 

MSD cap and rotor are actually cheaper than stock. Try that.

 

i had that same problem with my 92 and after going through everything it ended up being my oxygen sensor. it never threw a code or anything.

 

my o2 sensors new so tahtl be the last thing i try if all else fails im changeing the ICM tomorrow do i need to put some kind of grease on it??

 

yes its used for cooling of the icm it should come with some.

 

oh it didnt come with anything lol cept for instructions that didnt make any sense

 

since were talkin about opening up the distributor cap aswell. im just gonna throw this one in there. the ignition coil. you can take it out and ohm check it just like the injectors. resistance between the two tabs (tach, and battery) should be very very low, zero, or almost zero. then there should be resistance between each tab and the secondary coil which is in the center where the spring thingy sits.

 

the coil i just replaced like 2 days ago thinking that was part of the problem. What is this grease stuff is it a special kind??

 

i replaced the ICM but it still is acting the same once it warms and i turn it off. Im so lost

 

the grease is silicon grease, its very important to not forget to put it. also the ignition module and pickup coil could still be the culprit

 

It is NOT silicone grease. It's some sort of heat compound. Can't think of the name at the moment.

Did you have the auto parts store test your ICM before replacing it?

 

It's dielectric grease, but you can substitute lithium grease or even wheel-bearing grease. The purpose is just to provide more molecular contact in order to sink away the heat from the unit.

 

according to haynes its silicone grease. yes dielectric grease will work aswell. its just to prevent it from heating up

 

yea i know they still could be bad.... and there was some of the gresse in the box i just didnt notice it before lol. Im still really lost by how its acting. its confusing

 

Dielectric grease will "melt" and disappear. The stuff you want is made for heat sinks. Works a buttload better than grease and lasts exponentially longer.

 

well the guy who has it now(i traded somone) said he took it to a shop and its the egr valve thats doing it. Idk how that would effect it not starting right??

 

I had the same problem with my truck. When it warmed up I lost all power and stalled out at times. I was going up a hill normally can get up it in fourth I had to down shift and barley made it. I thought it was a few things computer, sending unit, and injectors. Come to find out my one of the honey combs in my cat broke off and would block the exhaust pipes. I had the same symptoms you are having so I just banged it out. I also did the same thing to my iroc and a can feel a bit more kick but not much.

 

Polydimethylsiloxane


it is a silicone grease. or organic silicone polymer to be exact

 

It is heatsink compound. Do searches on this website and you will find that silicone grease works but is not the proper thing to use. It's heat transfer properties are nowhere near as good as heatsink compound.
Do it once, do it right.

There are several posts. A search on compound and module brought up a lot of posts.

 

its a silicone grease. not silicone grease. its made with silicone oil and is a grease, its not regular silicone grease but a special organic polymer that has extremely good electrowhatever properties.

Polydimethylsiloxane

or

PDMS for short.