Hi I am having problems with my 1989 iroc-z 5.7TPI. Now it seems to run fine when its cold, but then once I start driving it or it heats up is seems to like shake a lot and one time it even shut off on me. I had the tps sensor pig tail replaced, and the car still has a lot of power. My dad took it to his friend which owns a mechanic shop and he said one of the pistons is bad or the rod bearing, but it doesnt knock at all or anything, maybe a little tick once in a while. My dad doesnt believe him, and he wants me to go carb, but i dont want to because it defeats the purpose of having the g92 IROC-Z. What do you think I should do? Could it be the TPI system that just sucks, or should I try something else? You tell me.

 

i would pull codes off the ECU then go from there.

 

Thats what I wanna do...but where can I get it done...i asked my buddy from autozone if they do it but he says he is not sure if they can do it for OBD1

 

you proli gunna make it worse if you go carb.....Just bring it to a REAL mechanic and Fix the prob....these cars are 20 years old..get used to it

 

I know we did...guy said the same ****...both of them said that old design of fuel injection sucks, that the wires of the injectors are dried out and blah blah blah...i dont care i wanna keep it TPI because its an original 1989 IROC-Z L98 with the g92 package...i been thinking of taking out the motor and putting a cam kit in and porting the heads/tpi. So by the time i do this everything will be fixed..but I want to run the car how it is stock for a good three or four months so i can pile up the cash to do the engine. Thats why im askking for an easy fix on here.

 

how much is the 87 for i am interested

 

Nah were not selling it yet...were gonna finish the interior and headliner and a few things it needs. We're looking to get around $4000 for it probably less.

 

You can check it your self turn the key to the acc position and count how many times it flashes. Look up on the web or if you have a book and see what code it throws. Also make sure to check all injector connections ext Or just get a diegnostic done.

 

hmm..so he said you need all new injectors?...whats the miles on the car?

its doubtful that they ALL need to be replaced

send the injectors out for a cleaning and take it from there

 

No not the injectors...the wiring. Everything all the sensors and injectors wires and stuff...Its one of these grease monkey mechanics that think it should etiher be new design or carbed -_- . Car runs fine like i said, its just when it gets cold it feels like it has a nasty cam in it, and it shuts of once in a while, but just once in a while very randomly. Today i cleaned the throttle body and this brown coffee looking water was coming out so im guessing it was pretty dam dirty lol. But it still runs a bit off and has a little failure. And the tps sense is tuned right and the timing is fine.

 

You won't sell it how it is right now

 

Nah I dont think my dad will, he likes to sell his cars finished. How much are you willing to pay....here ill post pics.

 

i gotta ask. but whats up with the trailer hitch. For like a wheel chair or somthing?

 

No we bought the car with it....a few ppl told me its good for handling so i just left it on...plus it looks different.

 

I would give you $2850 or would you sell it without the motor i have a LS1 but want it on a t top and mine is hardtop

 

No i dont think my dad wants to sell it yet. Is that $2850 right now how it is. We have the headliner coming in on the 2nd, and im putting some 3rd gen electrical seats in sometime this weekend so the interior is not gonna need much work after those things are done. The dash has NO cracks and the car handles amazing, better than my 89! Ill talk to him about it.

 

Update: So I removed my exhaust on the cat because I was gonna remove it so I can gut it, but it turns out it was already gutted. I turned on the car open-cat and I hear a clicking sound. Sounds like the sound a loose rocker would make, but obviously it wouldnt make it down there. So what can it be, could it be the valve or the rod bearing? Or anything else?

 

This thread has gone so far off topic and jumping around that I'm not sure what information you are looking for at this point. I'm going to take some guesses.

To pull your codes you need to either buy a tool that cost about $10.00 or so that will plug into you aldl port, or you can take a large paper clip and short the A pin to the B pin. Turn on your ignition key switch to the run position. DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE! The ses light will then flash to give you the codes. It will start by flashing a 12, that is a flash pause flash flash. It will repeat the 12 3 times. 12 is not a code just tells you that the ecm is working. After the 12 code has flashed 3 times, any codes stored in ecm will be displayed in order. Have a pen and paper ready to write them down. Each code will flash 3 times, then it will go to the next code. When all of the codes in the memory have flashed, it will go back to flashing a 12 to let you know that it has given you everything. It does all of this by flashes, so you count the flashes. The codes are all 2 digit codes so it will flash the first number, pause and flash the second number. It is kind of like the "dots" in Moris code with a "dash" between the numbers. The way it is running, you should be getting a ses light coming on when it starts running rough, so you should get a code. As far as the ticking you hear, it is probably normal. The injectors make a slight knocking sound every time they inject fuel, that is a normal condition.

 

Ok....I know ill be super confused when i do it but i will try lol. And the ticking is not the inkectors, that ticking is there but its not that tick. Its something in the engine. And when i ran it open cat it was coming out of the exhaust.

 

Your ticking could be a collapsed lifter, just like on the old flat tappet old school motors. By the way, when you pull the codes, you may get a "laundry list" of codes. If there have been codes in the past that had the problems repaired, but the codes were never cleared, those codes will still be in memory. You may need to clear the codes by disconnecting the battery. That is why you need to write them down first.