do you guys think i could see 12 secs with this combo.... also what do you think my whp and wtq should be.... thanks in advance....

MODS:
Engine:
fresh 93' 355 bored .30 over 4 Bolt Main Short Block
9.6 to 1 Compression
Milodon Main Cap Bolts
Eagle 5140 Forged Steel "SIR" Lightweight Connecting Rods
Eagle 4340 Forged steel crank
Kieth Black Hypereutectic -12cc Dome pistons
Upgraded Clevite 77 H Bearings
dura-bond hi performance coated cam bearings
Pioneer heavy duty brass freeze plugs
Internally Balanced Eagle rotating assembly (rated at 650 horsepower)
Melling Oil pump
Rebuilt L98 heads with manely springs, retainers, screw in studs
GM HOT Cam
218/228 .492"/.492" 112 LSA
Comp Cams 1.5 roller tip rockers

Induction/Fuel Delivery:
Fully ported and Siamesed Plenum, egr walls grinded down
Fully Ported and Siamesed SLP Runners port matched to Plenum
Edelbrock Lightly Ported Highflow Intake
SLP's CAI with K&N air filter and SLP's special modded intake hoses
IAT relocated to SLP CAI box
48mm throttle body with Airfoil
SVO 24lb Injectors
Heated O2 sensor
Crane's AFPR set at 47psi

Drivetrain/Suspension
Built 700R4 (rated at 500 horsepower)
9 bolt Borg Warner 3.27 gears
aluminum DriveShaft
2300 Stall converter
B&M Shift Kit
Tranny cooler

Exhuast:
Hedman longtube Street headers
Custom 3" y-pipe
Catco highflow Gutted converter
Flowmasters 80’s series 3.5 inch catback

Ignition:
New distributor
MSD 8.5 super conductor wires
accel Super coil

MISC:
PCM4less tune
SA performance double timing chain
160 thermostat
Throttlebody Bypass
EGR delete
Heater valve delete
Air/smog delete
New harmonic balancer
LT1 Starter
Heavy duty flywheel
Performance radiator
High flow water Pump

 

Shouldn't be a problem unless your at some dumb elevation. You've got a pretty nice setup going. Are the heads unported? A nice aftermarket set of heads, up the CR to 10.5, with 3.73 gears and that car should move! Good lucks and keep us posted!

ps I think your pistons are dished, not domed.

 

thanks.... yea the heads had a peformance valve job done to them along with new valve seals... they were not ported... i was going to get a set a aftermarket heads but the engine build took just about everything i had from my tax money..... thats why i went with 1.5 rockers instead of the 1.6 rockers with the GM hot cam with the l98s. and due to iron heads i'd say 9.6 is a safe limit.... im pretty much done as far a performance mods goes.. i think ive got more than enough goodies for a fun daily driver.... my rear end is the only part of the car that hasnt been touched... when it breaks i plan on upgrading to a 3.42 rear end....

 

do any of you guys think i could pull 300whp with this combo

 

.

 

you should defanitly have more then 300 at the wheels

 

With basically stock heads, a ported intake and a tiny cam? I'd say 280-300 depending on the dyno. That bottom end is over the top, and honestly a bit of a waste unless you plan on a good set of heads and a big cam.

You have an EXCELLENT platform to work with now, it's just that the stock heads won't make that much power. I can see lower 13's to upper 12's with that setup assuming you can hook.

 

lol well i thought the previous 2032 cam i had was tiny.... the gm hot cam to me is a pretty decent size cam for what im running.... the reason i went with a stout bottom end is because i wanted this block to last and be relaible.... i wanted a really strong block that will take abuse because i will be on it from time to time bascially for extra insurance... well i ran out of money on heads so i will just have to use my stock heads and i might switch out heads.... i just want to beat stock ls1s and some of the newer cars... i know my torque should be awesome tho.... horsepower to me is just bragging rights anyways its not like your gonna use all 400rwp on the streets... i built this according to what i can afford and i rather have a super strong bottom end that i dont have to worry about than spending 1200 plus for some good heads for just 40 or so horsepower that really wont do nothing for a daily driver....

 

That combo should move. I'd rather see 2800 stall tho but 2300 will work. Tweak your suspension and have some sticky tires and your mid high 12's on a great day. My bolt on L98 touched 12's, a cammed L98 should have no problem getting 12's even with stock heads

 

thanks orr89rocz... you helped me out so much... i dont know how to thank you..... yeah i did want aftermarket heads but i upgraded to a 4340 crank and some other little things that i forgot to get..... since i already hadthem rebuilt and had alot of work done to those heads less than a year ago i minus well use them.... also reduced almost 200 pounds of weight during this process so tha should help some... what kinda suspesion mods do you recommend i have never touched the suspension...

 

biggest things are shocks. I love adjustables so you can dial in drag and street use. For best drag strip traction, i'd get lower control arms with relocation brackets. those are the main two items you should look into.

Later on, you can upgrade springs if you want, and replace suspension bushings. If you lower the car an adjustable panhard bar will be needed. But for now you dont have to change much.

Replace some bushings and mainly the LCA's with relocation brackets and you'll be good to go. Definately upgrade to some good shocks tho.

 

ok i will look into that..... thanks guys.....

 

I think that 300 RWHp will depend on how well the heads flow..... they may be the bottleneck...
I guess the question is what's different than your last set-up........?
1) You have 5 more cubic inches than you did before.....
2) Slightly larger cam than the 2032 you had before..... 214/220 .452/.465" VS 218/228 .492/.492" that you have now.
So besides the reliability that you've now got with the bottom end, you really haven't changed that much in how the engine breathes. (which is what makes power.) Therefore I don't expect much change from the original 215 RWHp & 283 Ft/Lbs Tq that you ran with the original set-up....

Great short-block though!!!!! You'll never have to screw with that....
Aren't the 1.5 RR and the 1.6 RR the same price??? Coulda used more lift on that cam...?

Suspension will definately get you down the track faster!!!!
Keep us posted on the #'s once it's all put together.

Don't cha hate the way the price always catches up with ya!!!! I know it gets to me!!!!
Keep up the good work!!!

ps...... I hate WINTER!!!!

 

the only reason why i had the 215 by 283 was because i had a ton of problems... i had a bad tune to start with, using 87 gas, timing was incorrect after looking at it when we got home, running way too lean on a very high mileage motor...... when we did a compression test the cylinders read all in the low 130's..... i should have at least been making 260-270 with that set up..... but due to a tired engine along with other fuel problems it just wasn't up to task.... alot of people on here agreed that i should have been making alot more than that.... i planned on getting the afr's but i had to spend that money on a personal issue so im stuck with these heads at the time being until i can get some decent aftermarket heads..... the reason why i got the 1.5 rockers is because i would need machine work to the heads and they wouldn't really take advantage of that cause they dont flow well... besides im done dumping money into stock heads.. so with the manely springs retainers and studs i will have roughly .525 lift without any machine work.... so the hot cam will work just fine with that....

 

get rid of that 80 series muffler, you will thank yourself for it matter of fact don't use flowmaster at all I have an singe 40on my 90 and a supper 40 on my 87 they work way better, but I think magnaflow or other and cheaper brands work better than flownuts..yes lower control arms will be the best 100 dollars you've ever spent on your car, relocate battery to the rear..I'm starting a thread next week called how to get an iroc into the 12's also with doing some basic bolt-on's so if you or anyone else has info, can help support this thread and my thread that will be much appreicated.... here is a link to my car it currently runs 13.70 99.07 mph

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/9...-gt_194535.htm

 

That's cool.... we've all had our issues @ the dyno..... but your LT4 hotcam will have .492/.492" lift with the 1.5 ratio rockers. If you wanted the .525/.525" lift you would need the 1.6's and the machine work like you mentioned...... the Manley retainers and studs don't change the lift....

 

oh i know... i meant to say that my heads will take a max lift of a .525 cam with those springs and stud kit..... and with the .492 that the gm hot cam offers with 1.5 rockers, i will have a .30 of clearance and would not need any machine work...so i would be good to go.. oh and gorvernorcamaro i saw your message... thanks man... i took alot of saving up to get those parts..... and the good things about it is everything is being done by my dad and i.... he is building my motor from scratch....

 

For some reason I thought the hot cam was 208/218, seeing my error, 12's should be pretty easy. That bottom end will be pretty much unkillable for what you're doing.

 

yeah the hot cam is pretty big for my setup...... thats why i didnt go with the 1.6 rockers with stock heads.... i hope the hot cam is choppier than my old 2032 cam...

 

it will be

 

thats what i like to hear.... why are alot people ******* the flowmasters 80 series.... i think it sounds very nice..... i get compliments all the time on my exhaust.....

 

Cause sound is about all you get from a slowmaster on our cars. The design of the muffler and design of the F-body exhaust just don't mix. The only way I would use a flowdisaster is if I had perfectly straight piping with no bends leading to the muffler. Even then I would still buy Hooker or Magnaflow. That's the way to go.

 

but for a street engine does it really matter..... im not worried about gettin 10-15 horsepower gain by switching to hooker or magnaflow.... i just really like the sound..... its still way better than stock thats for sure....

 

TRUST ME BROTHA GET RID OF IT AND TRUST ME IT MAY BE ONLY 10-15 HP, BUT IT'S CHEAP HP. A NICE MAGNAFLOW IS ONLY 64.99 AND MAYBE AN EXHAUST SHOP WILL CHARGE 60-80 DOLLARS TO PUT IT ON WITH AN PIPE...... AND PLEASE GO SINGLE IN SINGLE OUT THAT DUAL OUT DOES NOT MAKE IT FASTER IT MAKES IT SLOWER ACTUALLY.......

 

well my brother had a a dynomax catback system with some real nice tips and everything for his camaro and i didn't like the way it sounded at all.... it wasn't even agressive sounding..... it sounded stock but it was all aftermarket... when he changed over to flowmasters 80 series like me it sounded alot more aggressive.... and i went to the muffler shop that did my work... the owner of the place told me that i have the best header, y pipe, catback combo that they do and i have the best sounding setup they or anyone offers and i asked him about magnaflow... he also does magnaflow too and he told me that the flowmasters sound alot better.... The thing with the single exhuast outlet.. i think thirdgens with a single outlet like that look really ugly and doesn't grab me at all.. dual tips look much betta to me... all i really want is sound guys...... i dont care about squeezing every ounce of horsepower..... i paid close to 1200 for my entire exhuast system from headers back and it was done very professionally and i get thumbs up everytime im at a stoplight or get edged on to a race.... im not bout to change a perfectly good sounding system that suits my needs for 15-20 horsepower for a daily driver....

 

if its the 3" in 3" outs 80 series you should be ok. I didnt pick up hardly at all switching to a straight thru muffler on a full bolt on L98. My 80 series did well and did sound pretty good.

 

yeah the whole exhaust system is 3 inch except for the tips which is 3.5... it sounded amazing... it made my cam sound bigger than it was cause a few guys were amazed because my cam loped harder than their gm hot cam....but i like my system...