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How much to replace fuel pressure regulator?

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Old 11-03-2012, 07:56 PM
  #101  
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Car: 87 Iroc Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Re: How much to replace fuel pressure regulator?

I have 2 quick questions
1. I have a 350, and I was wondering what is the reccommended psi for the fuel pressure regulator? I was reading 43 was norm for a 305, and I'm unsure if that's a safe number for a stock 350. Mine is TPI as well.

2. What are the torq specs for the plenum (if any)? I was reading to just play it by ear, but I'm pretty new to taking the plenum apart.
All help is greatly appreciated

(Sorry for bringin this thread back up, but it has been VERY helpful thus far with pics and info. That, and I'm going to be doing the same thing soon).
Old 11-04-2012, 01:34 AM
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Car: 87' GTA
Engine: 350 L98 TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-Bolt
Re: How much to replace fuel pressure regulator?

From what I've read 48 psi is a good number when bumping up the pressure with an adjustable regulator, I had mine either there or 49-50, and good results with it.

As far as plenum torque goes, I usually just tighten the bolts down in till they're all snug, then go back and turn a good quarter turn or so while alternating sides/top/bottom until the whole plenum is completely snugged down real good.
Old 01-21-2013, 08:53 PM
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Re: How much to replace fuel pressure regulator?

My oem reg is 47 PSI, factory settings on my LB9
Old 04-13-2013, 04:52 PM
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Re: How much to replace fuel pressure regulator?

I think whoever's paying 6 to $800 must be driving a Ferrari! The original poster is driving a sizeable GM, considering it's a 5.7. But being retired (spinal injury, loss of everything, and can't afford to have a shop work on it), and always having done always done simple jobs like brakes, I've been watching YouTube videos for everything else (rear & electric side windows, and just watched a few on Silverado/Tahoe fuel pressure regulator replacement yesterday, due to hard starting when hot.
Bought the new fuel pressure regulator for $50 bucks, took a big & small flat-head screw drivers, and needle nosed plyers, and did the job in less than a half an hour. Mine's a 2000 1500 Silverado Z71 4X4 with a 5.3 Vortec, but I can't imagine a 5.7 could cost much more, or be too difficult to replace.
Between YouTube and this internet machine, I got a tranny shop to drop the price of a U-joint replacement from $350 to $180, after I'd told them I'll just do it myself ($35 in parts and a lot of cussing), and I would have had I not committed to their $100 diagnostic fee. YouTube's been an absolute lifesaver!
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