Hi fellaz . Got a good question. I need to find a MAF power relay. Problem is that Autozone dont got it, Kragen neither, and PepBoys the same. I dont want to pay $22 bucks at the dealer and I dont want to pay online because everybody swears up and down that the MAF Power, MAF Burn off, and Fuel pump relays are the same. So where can I find a MAF Power relay that is not too heavy in the pocket?

here are 3 genuine MAF Power relays but only 2 are the cheapest (under $11 bucks)

BW R3009 MAF power
GM 10067925 MAF power
GP MR22 MAF power

Are there other brands?

 

Just got mine from NAPA about a month ago, $15 or $16... They crossed referenced to the gm # you have in your post, can't remember the new part #. I'll check and see if I have the receipt.

 

OK, so 3 relays, here we go: Listed as if you are looking right at them (TPI setup)

1) MAF Burnoff relay org.#14078907 is replaced by #10094701(closest to engine)
2) MAF Power relay #10067925 (middle)
3) Fuel Pump relay org.#14078907 is replaced by #10094701(beside driver side fender)

***All part #'s are AC Delco Parts***
So as you can see, 2 of the relays are the SAME. The MAF Power relay is not!!! You can try NAPA, or sorry to say- just suck it up and get AC Delco relay. I Don't like to take chances!!!

 

Keep in mind, "you get what you pay for"......buy cheap > get crap!!! And only 1 of the relays on your list of relays is genuine.....GM-AC Delco!!!

Sorry dude.

 

Nice, thanks guys. napa got it for 12 bucks. As for y84pauloflondon, Thanks bro. Your right about I get what I paid for.

 

Check this out guys. I dont know if you guys remember about my uncle burning my fuel pump after i found out that he siphoned out my gas but check this out. I thought I had burned the fuel pump. Now I bypassed the fuel pump by putting a jumper wire (HOT) to the ADLD thing under the steering column and inserted into "G" slot and to my suprise, the pump primed. Now I verified that the pump isnt burned out. Now I suspected a fuse but theyre all good. Next I suspected the fuel pump relay. Bought a new one and the same still occured, not clicking noises as I turned the key (clicking as in the relay tripping causing fuel to prime). so I pulled off the harness while the key is in "on", and I put a test light in each slot in the wiring harness. there is no hot current at all, none on all three relay connectors (MAF power, MAF burn off, and fuel pump). Shouldnt there be a wire that is "hot" in the relay connectors while the key is in "on" position? So anyway, I had my wifes car connected to the positive cable of the camaro and negative post to my camaros negative cable via jumper cables (yes call me lazy, Its too much work to take out my wifes battery and put it in the camaro). So that is how I powered the camaro. Any ways after trying to get the fuel pump to prime with the new fuel pump relay, I decided to get the battery and connect it to the camaro. As I connected the positive cable to the camaro, I heard the click of the relay, I also heard the air begin pushed around in the fuel rail (a pssssss type of sound). So I went inside the camaro and cranked and the camaro turned on but suddenly died. I turned the key agian and i heard the click and the fuelpump wind up. but of course the camaro had air in the lines so I cranked to bleed out the line. Now after I cranked, I never heard the relay trip agian. All the fuses are good, it has a new FP relay so what the hell? I opened up the bad relay and I connected it to the wiring harness and i put a hot wire to one of the posts and the bad relay tripped and the FP primed. I dont now what is going on here. Can somebody help me out here? Ohh, and I figured that the oil pressure/fuel pump switch must be bad so I bypassed that to and nothing, no current present. Should I repalce all three of the relays just for safe measure? Why would the fuel pump prime after connecting the new relay and then just stop priming? Does this make sense?

 

I may be talking out of my **** here, but I would recommend looking for a fuse in the engine bay on the passenger side in the wiring harness. My 87 TPI has a 20 amp fuse their that will prevent my fuel pump from priming. My harness has been molested many times so i believe that this may have originally been a fuseable link. On mine, their is another 20 amp fuse in the wiring harness (same area but closer to the fan on the passenger side) that may have previously been a fuseable link as well. May want to check these 2 areas...

 

I'm starting to think that he(Chevy86IROC-Z) has a broken wire somewhere!
Start at the relays, trace the wires as far as you can, and do a continuity test on each wire.

 

Yup. My uncle told me that there may be a fuseable link somewhere too. My wiring (close to the battery has been tampered with a lot. Looks like a cob web. Im thinking about getting somekind of distribution board to clean things up a bit. omnipotentgoku, if it aint too much to ask for, could you take a picture of the area (where your 20 amp fuse is at) so that I can compare my wirng and use yours as a reference? It may be a burned out wire too because like I said, It had no juice when messing with the relays and there was no "hot current when I tested the connectors under the relays. But when I moved the cable around to connect the battery, I heard the relays clicking as if I was completing the circuit. Well thanks guys, Ill keep you guys updated.

 

There is a red or orange wire coming out of the positive battery cable this wire feeds
12v to the ecm and fuel pump. there should be a 20 amp fuse in line on it. Make sure the wire is in good condition and the fuse isn't loose in the connector.

Also check the connectors on your relays, over time the insulation can slide down exposing the bare wire and may cause a short.

 

Ill look out for those wires John 89 Formula. Yeah I noticed those wires too. Im going to cutt em off one by one, insert shrink tubing and solder them. Well thanks guys.

 

I never followed up on this post so Ill give you guys the results. I looked around for the fusable link and I found it cliped on the fender nest to the battery. I checked for continuity and is was good. Fuse was also good. Baffled. I then checked continuity between the battery connector and the "always hot" wire for the MAF, MAF Burn off, and Fuel Pump Relays. POOOWWWWW. No continuity. So I checked up and down the wire and I found the culprit. Between the fusible link and the battery, there was a splitter (power distributor) type of connection. On the relay end of the wire I saw the problem. The wire was corroded pretty bad. I cut off all the wires, crimped on some o-ring crimps and riveted them all together. Then I slid the heat shrink tubing over the new crimps and shrunk it. Turned the key and VRRRROOOOOOOMMMMMM. It worked. Good deal huh. Thanks for the help guys.

 

i have a new ac delco unit ordered, took 4hours to get it and $10.99

IMO get a delco unit, youll be glad you did!

 

$10.99. Where? I need a spare just in case.

 

Sorry, but I don't know what you mean by "AC Delco Unit".....What is it? (part, tool, WHAT)

 

The MAF Power Relay (AC Delco Brand name he meant).

 

Local parts store, Monument Car Parts. they are all over the bay area, long way from holtville!

an acdelco burnout relat was 18.89

 

IROCK ZZ, So ur from Frisco then. Yup, my wife gots family there. Yes, Holtville is way the heck down south, I mean really south. I live just 5 minutes north of Mexico. Im going to see how much it would cost to have them send it down. If its cheaper than Rockauto.com and a GM Dealer, then Ill go ahead and make a purchase. Peace.

 

Ah! Thank you very much for clearing that up............ I always try to replace with AC Delco parts, even the spark plugs and wires. I like it simple and stock!