Since your car runs now. Start it up and at idle tap on all the injectors with a screw driver. If your idle goes up you have found leaking ones. Some will still
Ohm good when they're ready to crap out.

 

running rich could be nothing more than a bad o2 sensor, you say the car has 111,000 miles on it. Change out the o2 sensor, put some fresh plugs in it, and run some fuel system cleaner through it and see what happens.

 

Just to ask how many o2 sensors do we have? when i looked i only found 1 on the drivers side.

 

When the service guy called me to say the cars running but very rich he asked me if i replaced fuel injectors, so thats going to be one of the first things i try when i get the car

 

thats the only one, drv side exhaust manifold.

 

So if i were to get true dual would i need 2 o2 sensors?

 

Well getting the car back today, will do alittle testing on it and post what happens. Also funny thing is when i told the mechanic i replaced 3 injectors, he said none of those injectors were new so im guessing carlos put some used injectors there and charged me full price of what they cost new.

 

Sorry to hear that bro.

 

What an ---!!

 

yea i alwyse use the excuss carlos made the car worse but it was my fault. I should of known, but everyone learns from their mistakes. Well got the car back now and i will say it does idle a bit smoother than before when it went to GM. It has a misfire and the cars running very rich, but i will say ever since i bought the car from day one smoke has shot out of the back and a lot of it so its been a problem since i bought it. I tapped on the injectors and no difference, and as for the o2 sensor i cant really do much about that. Heres something i never cought on to before that my friend pointed out. When my cars idleing my friend put his hand over the throttle body to see if it would stall from no air, the car didnt stall but the idle went down. I tried it again myself just now and i covered it as best as i could and it didnt stall, when i let go it started to suck a load of air in then mellowed down. I dont know if thats normal, ill try and cover it again and see what happens but can this be causing a problem? Also when i unplugged the vacuum hose that goes to the evaporative emissions canister the idle speed seemed like it increased. Now to ask again any suggestions?

 

You have a vacuum leak. When you cover the tb your hand should get sucked in and the car WILL stall. Check all your vacuum lines by spraying carb cleaner near joints. If your idle changes you have found te source. That will also make the car miss.

 

It does suck my hand in and sounds like its going to stall but barely stays on. So can this be any vacuum hose on the entire car or certain ones? A lot hoses on the car after awhile got dryed out. And to add on alittle i was messing with the injectors by unplugging them to see if any idle difference and yea cylinders 4, 6, and 8 when i unplugged them i felt no difference in the idle. I unplugged all of them at the same time and no idle difference, but when i unplugged lets say cylinder 1, 3, 5, or 7 the idle DROPPED and the car got extremely shakey. I did another ohm's test...
Cylinder 1 - 7.8 OHM'S
Cylinder 2 - 14.8 OHM'S
Cylinder 3 - 17.2 OHM'S
Cylinder 4 - 9.8 OHM'S
Cylinder 5 - 16.5 OHM'S
Cylinder 6 - 14.9 OHM'S
Cylinder 7 - 13.6 OHM'S
Cylinder 8 - 17.1 OHM'S

Now when i originally did it they all were 16 to 17 ohms so i was really shocked. What doesnt make sense is why is cylinder 1 so low but makes a big difference when i unplug it but when i unplug cylinders 4, 6, and 8 no difference at all. Im going to replace the injectors anyway but what a supprise.

 

Be extremely careful if you use carb cleaner. Ide prefer propane. Any stray sparks will cause a flashback and could possibley burn you. Also there isn't much vacuum lines. If you need a diagram, do a search and you'll find one here in the boards. If you can't find it, ill post one up for you.

 

I had a bad gasket in between my passenger runner and plenum. So it could be anywhere on the motor. But the car should stall when covering the throttle body. But it looks like you have 2 bad injectors already, so that could be why you car is rich.

 

Is it ok it i use WD-40? If not ill go to pepboys and pickup some carb cleaner or whatever works. Now let me ask this if i were to rev the car when staring at the engine will i see any kind of like stem come from the engine? Meaning one time i rev'd the engine from the throttle body and on the passanger side i saw steam come up when i rev'd it.

 

I search for hour, can seem to find the diagram, could post it for me, thanks

 

You shouldn't see steam or you have some kind of coolant leak. The carb cleaner will gt sucked into the vacuum leak and cause the idle to go up. So wd40 will not work.

 

Sorry for having you wait for so long bro.... here you go.... http://chevythunder.com/fuel%20injec...um%20lines.htm

The diagram above is for 1985-1989 F-body (Camaro/Firebird) MAF TPI


This diagram is for 1990-92 F-body (Camaro/Firebird) Speed density TPI


The diagram above is for 1985-89 Y-body (Corvette) MAF system.

 

So with being said i can also have a leak in a gasket to right? I need to run get some carb cleaner. Now for the steam i saw, it was on the passanger side back by the valve covers. When i gave it a hard rev i saw steam shot out then went away, only happens when i rev the car or atleast it did

 

that steam that you saw could probably two things, you valve cover is loose and the oil pressure shot out the oil at such great force that the oil splashed inside the valve cover and found a seam which leaked the oil and landed on the exaust manifold and vaporized. Or your head gasket has a hole and the coolant sprayed out between the the head and block through the head gasket in which escaping hot coolant usually vaporises upon exiting the block when hot.

 

A blown head gasket can give you undesirable operation.

 

Could a blown head gasket cause hesitation, misfire, and black smoke to come out the back running rich? I thought if you blew a head gasket you cant drive past like 60 mph. Ive also heard that when a cars running rich the real problem is that its running lean, the computer tells it to run more gas. Is this true? Ill get 2 heads looking at the engine when i rev it to see where its coming from, but i did put new chrome valve covers on and maybe they werent completely on snug tight

 

Chrome valve covers? nice. I dont know about driving faster than 60 mph but Ill post up a couple of pictures that expain about running rich and lean. the pictures are from a TPI system (Chevy TPI Fuel Injection Swappers Guide) strictly for our Camaro's. I can sell you the the whole book ($6 paypal) as a pdf file. it explains about causes of trouble codes and solutions to the trouble shooting. Icant explain more on selling the book because this aint the advertising section.

 

here is the section that covers closed open loop (rich/lean)

 

I have the haynes manual that has all the codes and causes in the back. I looked at it yesterday. This engine is a mystery, ill post up pics of the engine because i have some unplugged wires that i dont even know what they go to

 

pages 4,5,6

 

7 and 8

 

But this book is far more in detail of trouble codes. i t features a graph and trouble shooting methods which rule out trouble. Here is an example

 

Yea i can see, i dont have paypal. But can i buy this from any auto store?

 

lets go PM

 

Pretty much these guys said all the good stuff. Just to add, Get throttle body cleaner and spray it in the 2 flaps and let it clean out, also add fuel injector cleaner into the gas tank and burn out the gas in there. Another thing is there's the throttle air control sensor there's a little switch like button on there that goes down flip it down and see if you get a really fast idle and also check the engine light, if it goes on then that sensor is also no good.

 

I will try that in a few minutes. First i want to do an update, well i took the car around the neighborhood and was testing it out. Well the car still has no pickup, pickup is like a boggy lag, and there was this grey smoke shooting out the back. Now i put the car into 1st gear and hit it down the street and i look into the mirror...street covered in smoke. When i pull up the driveway i looked into the back and it was smoking bad from the exhaust. Its not a black smoke nor white, its a greyish smoke which i read thats from pil leaking into the engine, not sure if thats write or my problem. Also when i opened the hood i heard this ticking/clicking noise coming from the back of the tuned port but couldnt tell if it was coming from the driver or pasanger side. I heard it more from the passanger side but im not assuming anything. I couldnt figure what it was coming from or what was making it. Also i mentioned before to TxTtops that i had the same tickin/clicking noise when i turn the car off, it eventually goes away after about 15 seconds but its like a click click click noise thats mellows away after awhile until it stops but thats everytime i start the car then turn it off and i cant figure what that is either. TxTtops told me since my diverter was gone thats what is causing the noise, or CAN be causing the noise. What does everyone think...?????

 

The greyish smoke, is def an oil leak, the seal/gasket/o-ring is gone. The boggy accel is most likely due to faulty spark plug wires or dist. I had the same problem until i changed the wires and then made sure all the gapping was right on the plugs. Most likely your plugs are fouled from excess gas in the engine.

 

I say your rings are gone and u have fouling plugs ...that explains the smoke and shake !!!!!!!
Go to e-bay and buy a 383 longblock and be done with it !!!

 

Yea i remember pulling cylinder 2 or 4's spark plug out and it was black, i cleaned it then put it back in and started the car. Turn it off pulled the same plug out and it was black again. Even the GM told me that the plugs are fouled. But also i thought was interesting is they told me i have a misfire and i know i do but the mechanic told me that the new MSD coil i bought is either cracked or the tip on the top where the plug wire connects is to short. He told me its either one, which it said on the package works with stock parts. I dont know if you need the MSD wires as well but he told me thats causing a misfire. Also i didnt find anything on the AIC to flip

 

I dont have the money for the new engine. I would throw this engine out in a heart beat if i did have the money. Ive been trying to find a 5.7 tpi engine with somewhat low milage. I found this engine guy on craigs list that sells LT1, LS1, and LS2 engines complete wih everything for around 600-800 dollars, but i dont know anything about making those this fit and i need A/C.

 

If i where u i stay away from 800 dollar engines..u cant even get yours rebuild for that money !!!!!

a 800 LT1 ..cant be a good engine ! JUST SAYIN

I think u need to bring the car up here to m e, and we work something out..u need rings and tune up... if i pull the engine i would do all and just go as u pay...rings , bearings ...complete rebuild ..LIKE NEW !!!!

 

Hey just to say this is the same color smoke that coming out of my exhaust http://www.google.com/search?q=corsa...0803204cf24cd6