So, after being walked by a late model Escalade during some 35-65 runs last night (no, I did not expect to keep up, but thought it'd be closer!), I think my '86 Trans Am LB9/A4 needs a little help. Because the car is a clean 31,000 mile car needing not much more than paint, keeping a stock look and feel is important to me. While I have no intentions of selling the car (almost did this past week, and chickened out), not hurting its value down the road is important to me.

I'm new to TPI, having purchased by TA in March and my IROC in June. What I'm thinking I'd like to do is...

1) Somehow modify the air intake...would an '88+ intake be better to go with? Is an airfoil and/or K&N drop in even worth it?
2) 1.6 RRs
3) Mild cam to keep within the parameters of a stock TPI PROM (I have no desire to go so crazy as to want to tune this thing myself)
4) Are all TPI exhaust manifolds created equal? I have no desire to do headers. I have headers and a Magnaflow on my '91 RS, and its far louder than I want this car to be. My wife finds my RS obnoxious, and even I do sometimes.
5) A fairly quiet catback...Borla? Does Corsa make an exhaust for 3rd gens? Is a 4th gen one easy to adapt to the TA?
6) 3.27s or better for the 9 bolt...is a 3.42 set available?

Are there any other "hidden" things I can do to aid power ouput? I do not want to pull the heads to port them at this time. Any help with cam/exhaust choices is really appreciated...any other thoughts are appreciated as well.

 

350 exhaust manifolds > 305 exhaust manifolds, but nobody will be crying foul about having headers

383 long block visually identical to 305/350 long block

410hp on a 383 w/stock top end, built in Super Rod Magazine years ago. Unfortunately, the magazine has decided to pull the online link recently. Glad I have my paper copy!

 

That is not even remotely the path I want to take with this car. I want to keep the stock flavor and enhance it a little. Good to know 350 manifolds are bigger than 305 tpi manifolds. I do not want headers due to the style and excess noise. People on here said my RS wouldn't be much louder with headers. Yeah, right!

Other thoughts on my questions are appreciated!

 

Your Post Title was way to vague then.

Do you want to do nickle & dime mods & get a minimal amount of HP return for your dollar? Or do you want to do it once & do it right?

What I described above leaves it looking 100% bone stock, until you depress the gas pedal!

 

Ok, I can see based on my title what you mean, but I did mention in the post I didn't want to pull the heads! Because of that, I assume pulling the motor wasn't what I was after?? Lol.

 

You mentioned not PORTING heads. That is way different than replacing. I was just share a quick & easy way to retain 10% stock appearance, yet get big gains for your buck.

You can throw a lot of little mods & get less gain for more money, or do it once & do it right. I am speaking from experience here. My GTA is 10 times better than all my previous 3rd gens, because there is no more buying a small part, only to replace it later with a better part. Sure.....My mods come slower & less frequent now, but I never replace a mod later with another mod.

 

how do you exepct for you car to breath with stock manifold?

I cant really help you other then to say do full exhuast (hooker 2055's with magnaflow cat/catback) HSR swap or porting on tpi setup with wider runners, and lose some weight off her.

 

a nice 2500 stall in the transmission along with a shift kit will wake the car up and make it fun. You could do an aftermarket y pipe like mac( the stock is small and connects in a t-form instead of a smooth Y) and a high flow cat. An lt1 cam and a mail order tune will work pretty good. Dont forget that GOOD ignition parts will usually smooth it out and make it feel more responsive, and I cant see that hurting the value Ive got 3.42 in my car and i think i would like 3.27 a little better just to give you some real world feedback.

 

Interesting stuff...whom would you recommend for a mail order tune? I've heard about LT1 cams for TBI cars as well, but I know they are a PITA to tune right. How hard will it shift with a shift kit and a higher stall TC? Does the TC change the feel of the shifts much? I admit, I like the smooth feel of the stock shifting, but know a TC can change the performance substantially.

Stephen, iroc stangs,
I understand what you guys are saying, but I'm not looking for a mod monster here. This is a 31,000 mile car that I'd like to keep fairly stock. Big headers and exhausts are going to make it as loud as my RS, and I DON'T want that for this particular car. If I can bump this car closely to stock TPI 350 performance, meaning 14s in the 1/4 and under 7 seconds 0-60, I am happy.

I own an M6 LT1 and plan a ZZ4 or 383 for the RS long-term...I know fast, and want to make a fast third gen. That is not the direction I am taking this particular car down, though. My IROC is bone stock, and I'd like a mostly stock feeling Trans Am to compliment it.

A catback is definitely something I'd like, but headers really aren't. My RS is flat too loud for what I want this car to be like.

 

Sounds like you should keep it stock cause everything your asking is going to move it more away from the "stock flavor", maybe look into getting nitrous cause it's about the only thing that will keep it stock and you can still have some fun when you want it.

 

So I guess this means a catback on the quieter side, gears, RRs, cams and airbox mods won't yield any benefit then?

I don't understand why some here feel I have few options because I don't want to do engine swaps or headers?? There has to be some ways to get more of without making it sound ridiculously loud or change the look a ton.

I like the idea of the listed parts I stated above, so if anyone has ideas for those respective parts, I'm pretty confident I can achieve my goals by doing that. Yes, I am aware keeping OEM-style manifolds hampers some power...but to keep a stock look and noise factor, its worth it to me.

I cannot believe motor swaps or nitrous are my only options that are worthwhile, guys. I don't need this to be a 13 second car.

 

I hate to be the bearer or bad news but most of the guys are right, without anything major the 305 is going to be a dog. I have a 305 but i also have heads, cam and full exhaust and i keep up with some to most 350s on a stock tune.

If it was me, i wouldnt even touch the 31k mile car. id leave it bone stock because in another 20 years everyone is going to want that bone stock car that was untouched inside and out. Thats just my two cents tho.

If you want to mod it, you can get the tpi throttle body airfoil (ebay for like $10), Rockers will help a little, but in the end its still that whimpy cam (trust me my stock motor had 170hp..ouch). Im really not trying to tell you what to do and i apologize if i come across that way. I mean you could get the car retuned but without any major mods it really wont help that much. Dont think about taking off the smog crap cause that doesnt do anything. you will not see a difference in performance except maybe a check engine light.

If you really wanted to leave the car stock and have more power, you could always bolt on a centrifugal super charger, this way when/if you sell it you can take it off and no harm done (just watch the boost with the internals).

I have a magnaflow catback on my car. its loud when im on it. its decent at idle and cruising which is what i wanted. borla and corsa are going to be loud, very loud. I would go with dynomax, they tend to be quieter, although the more quiet the muffler the less performance it has.

I dont think you want a shift kit cause you have to put apart the trans a little bit, not to mention it will slam 2nd gear (which i love but you might hate). The stall isnt a bad idea but with a stock cam its not going to help cause it wont take advantage of the engines powerband.

Sorry for the rant, hope this helps a little.

 

Those are the kind of responses you can expect when you ask for someones opinion on the internet.

Getting spanked by an Escalade would be troubling for me too. To get that lowly 305 into the 14's is going to take some work though. Didn't the 86 LB9 have 190hp? I think you can wake that 305 up with a custom chip, a bigger y-pipe, high flow catalytic converter, catback exhaust system. Dyno max Ultra flows are not that loud and sound great. They sell a good high flow cat too. Upgraded ignition pieces, like a new coil and ignition box will help too. I have a Crane HP ignition coil. I'd like to get an MSD 6AL box soon.

I also think that a new camshaft is in order. You can get a nice CC cam that will give a stock idle feel, and really boost power. I was surprised when I got a Comp cam for my TBI 350. It idled exactly like stock, but REALLy added low-midrange power. It was a big noticeable difference. The one I bougth was CCA-12-388-4. This one would be pefect for you.

This stuff will probably add a realistic 30hp and you can maintain a relatively stock appearance (except for the rumble of your exhaust).

 

And that is exactly why we say not to waste $ on that 305. All that work & it would still be below what my 1987 GTA came with stock, and need double that just to reach a STOCK 1992 350 power level.

With the low miles, pull that engine, store it well & build one to play with. Then you sell it later withe the original low miles on the original engine.

 

Thanks for your help...a couple questions for you:

1) In your opinion, will an eBay air foil and a K&N drop-in really benefit me much stock? If I added RRs and a cam, I assume at that point there is some benefit to be made from them? Is swapping an '88+ Firebird TPI intake onto this car beneficial?
2) How radical of a cam can I get into, in your opinion? If I do something like an LT1 cam (something I've looked into for my TBI RS), can a mail order tune work with it? I work almost 60 hours a week...the last thing I have time for is trying to band aid my engine with a newbie's tuning abilities
3) With a mild cam like an LT1 or equivalent, what is a good TC to look at? I've never modded an AT before...

 

cheap, fast, reliable. You are asking for all three. You can only choose two

 

The bad thing is, I don't even think a 30hp gain will bring it soildlt into the 14's. I do think that those mods will add a noticeable amount of torque, and make the car more fun to drive. That's what he's looking for, though.

 

Got a couple questions for you as well!

1) Yes, '86 LB9 Firebirds had 190hp...195 in the Camaros IIRC.
2) Is there a Y pipe you would recommend?
3) With TBIs being even more finicky than TPIs for mods (hell, my '91 LO3 barely wanted to idle when I put the headers on it!! It even stalled out for a couple days when I changed over to a TBI Performer intake! It does seem to eventually learn what to do though...), who burned a chip for you for that cam?

I like your thoughts. If I can gain about 30hp from a cam and a full exhaust minus headers (I think I could even get a little more than that, as simply swapping to an 85 GM cam will get me back 15 of the HP I lost for 86), and pick up a few more from RRs and breathing mods, 40hp would put me on top of my 88 IROC 350, albeit with less torque, likely. Add better gears and a TC, and I imagine I could get it in the 14s...

Maybe I'm nuts?

 

You can't use a stock LT1 cam with your 305. It's a roller cam. Your engine uses a flat tappet cam. Did you see cam that I suggested?

 

If I'm going to go through the effort to pull the motor, I'd sell the car first I almost did last Friday. I kept it because I really like the look of the car (blue silver two tone, black/grey cloth, hardtop) and the fact that its unique in my mind. You see a lot of GTAs...you rarely see normal TPI Trans Ams. I don't need this thing to be a road racer...just want to make it more fun. If I'm going to dump money into a motor swap, the car would go long before that.

I do appreciate everyone's thoughts, and I'm taking everything into consideration. I'd like to wake the car up without doing something radical. If all I'm going to do is take it from a 15.5 second 1/4 mile to a 15.0 if I'm lucky, then maybe its not worth it to do anything at all. I know my RS, stock, was slower than this car with an M5. After doing breathing mods and a full exhaust with headers, its now quicker. I thought I could do something similar with this car, minus the headers. I know TCs and gears can help TPI cars a lot...I'm still running 3.08s in the RS, but will be switching it to a 3.73 posi over the winter.

 

I did, Stealth...sorry, you are 100% correct. I keep forgetting about rollers versus flat tappet...this is the first third gen I've owned older than 88! I will check out your cam...who tuned your car?

 

One random thought...aren't the cams and gears alone on these cars 2 major achille's heels? Wouldn't the change of both of those alone make some impressive improvements on the street??

 

LEAVE IT STOCK

its what you truely want. So what if you lost to an escalade? I have lost to everything under the sun. Build the Iroc and dont race your "clean" bird. Leave it in Daily Driver status and mod the **** out of the iroc. Someone asks how fast it is just smile and say slow. Tell them you will race on such n such date and bring out the iroc.

 

I would have a mandrel bent y-pipe made at a reputable exhaust shop. The crush bent y-pipe you ahve now if hindering flow. They can put the rest of your new exhaust on while you are there.

I wouldn't put a convertor on it. The 305's small bore and long stroke are good for one thing. Producing good low-end torque. If you add a convertor and gears, you are going to force the engine to live at a higher rpm range. A 305 is not happy up there. The TPI system compliments the 305's abilities, so get parts that will benefit the system, not fight it. You can't get away from that bore and stroke combination. I speak from experience.

I didn't have to have a chip burned for my TBI 350. That cam is not wild enough to require a custom PROM. The engine was in my 87 GMC. It had 220K miles on it and burned oil badly. I removed it, rebuilt it to stock specs with the exception of the cam. It was truely a plug and play. TBI is so awesome. I never had a problem with it.

As for my car, I have done all the maintenance on it. I bought it for my daughters first car, so it's going to stay stock. The engine is out of an 89 Formula 350. It has 12K miles on it, but had been sitting for 5 years. It has been a battle getting it to run right. I am finally happy with the way it runs now. The only mods I have are 22lb. Bosch III injectors and a Superchip. The only reason I have this PROM is because I didn't have a non-VATS PROM to use in my GTA ( I used the 89 ECM and harness). I also don't have the equipment to burn my own. I'd like to, some day. I will eventually get another Firebird for myself once my daughter sets sail in this one (she's 15 now). That car will be heavily mod'd.

 

LOL...maybe you are right. I won't mod the IROC one bit...its wrapper fresh, with 21k miles on it and completely stock. The idea was to get performance from the Trans Am that was somewhat similar to the IROC, but keeping a stockish look and feel. If I want to go fast, I have an LT1 4th gen for that, or eventually when I throw a crate motor in my 117k mile RS.

I was figuring if I made it into something a little hotter than '85 specs (bigger cam to get rid of the peanut cam, 3.42 gears) plus a y pipe/catback combo, RRs and a mild converter and a few bolt on breathing mods, I could get back what the factory took away in '86 PLUS some. It seems to be well established that 85s were a good combo, and 86s got castrated.

stealth,
I understand what you are saying about the operational RPM range of 305s and TPI. What got me thinking about it was reading an '86 Hot Rod article, where they road tested 2 different TA TPIs...one had regular 2.77s like mine, the other had the optional 3.23s or 3.42s. They claimed the 1/4 mile was almost 1/2 second faster with the optional gears, and to avoid the 2.77s. Maybe there was some build variance between the cars as well?

With the 85 cars putting down better numbers than 86s, there has to be some truth that gears, a decent cam and some other light mods can make the car more amusing! But I do admit, I am new to TPIs...but I figure traditional hot rod techniques can work. My biggest concern is making sure the cam is as radical as I can get WITHOUT needing more than a mail order tune.

 

I'm sure a LITTLE higher gear will give you better acceleration, from 0-60ish because a 2.77 gear is OEM garbage that is good for gas mileage. A torque convertor is going to do something that gears won't. This will explain it better than i can...

taken from www.acceleratorhighstall.com
"STALL speed is a very misunderstood term as many get it confused with converter slippage. In its purest terms, if you locked the output (turbine) of the torque converter, stall speed is the rpm at which the converter places sufficient load on the engine to the point where the engine doesn’t have enough torque to further increase engine speed.
Therefore, the stall speed of a converter is not an absolute figure. A converter’s particular design will result in a range of stall speeds dependent on the amount of torque fed into it by the engine, which is also affected by the weight of the vehicle. For example, the stall speed for a given converter would be higher behind a torquey big-block than it would be with a small-block, and higher again if it’s pushing a heavy vehicle.

In reality, you can’t determine stall speed by pushing hard on the brake and bringing the revs up, as any decent converter will multiply torque so much that it will easily overpower the brakes. If you can get to the rated stall in this way, you’ve probably got a pretty sloppy converter that will never reach maximum efficiency.

Torque converter specialists have unique machines for determining stall. However, the best way to test the true stall speed of your converter is to do a flash stall test. This involves rolling down the road at about 15-20km/h and then standing on the throttle. The rpm to which the tacho immediately jumps to when the car locks up and takes off is your flash stall speed. Ideally, your converter should be set up so that the stall speed is pretty close to the rpm where your engine makes maximum torque. This will give you the greatest initial acceleration, and is why drag cars use high stall rated converters."

To keep it simple let's say that a 2500 rpm convetor really stalls at 2500 behind your 305. With a 2500 rpm stall convertor, you are raising your stall speed by more than 1000 rpms. Your engine will rev 1000 rpms higher than normal once you hit the gas. A 305 is at it's torque peak by that time. So you now have no torque curve. You have a peak and a down hill slope. Torque drops off really fast after 2800 rpms. You are missing out on 1500 rpms worth of torque curve. Things would be a lot different if you had a higher winding engine that started making big torque at 2500 rpms or so. Theoretically (if you didn't have a 305), once you open up the exhaust and induction your torque and hp curve will rise in rpms... but you still have a small bore/long stroke 305 that those parts are competing with. They're gonna lose. 14's is achieveable if you do it the right way.

 

30hp and a stall and or gears should get him into the 14's.
Hell, I got my 86 Trans Am LG4 into the 14's with a carb/intake swap.
Ran a 14.9@92mph with 130K miles on the stock motor.
LG4 was rated at 165HP and 270TQ.

 

VERY valuable advice...thank you! That's the best explanation of TCs I've ever seen!

Alright...so we've established TCs won't work...headers are too loud...and shift kits are going to make my 1-2 shift too hard (indeed, in response to a post above, I DO like the smooth, creamy shifts of a stock 700R4. If I have to suffer with an automatic, I like it smooth!!). So that leaves me with...

1) Mild cam to work with either a mail order tune or stock tune. Other cam suggestions are appreciated...I will look into the one mentioned above after work. Also, WHO do you guys recommend for a mail order TPI tune?
2) 1.6 RRs...any company recommended over another one?
3) Y pipe...I know of no one around here that mandrel bends stuff. Is there an aftermarket one recommended that will mate with OEM manifolds? The only time I've changed a Y is when I put headers on the RS.
4) Cat back...Dynomax is the quietest performance option? Are there any stainless options I can consider? How does the performance of the Dynomax compare to its louder peers?
5) Cat
6) Gears...I'm thinking 3.42s?
7) Intake mods...I haven't heard from anyone on the K&N drop in/88+ intake/air foil idea...

I really appreciate the help...this is good stuff...

 

OK, so SOMEONE seems to agree I'm not crazy! Any experience with TCs? It sounds like what he's saying makes sense for a torque sensitive motor...

 

I got a LT1 cam in my 350 86 IROC-Z. The thing about MAF is that the system can and will adjust its self to a certain point. So as for the LT1 cam, its perfect. Now if you had a speed density system, then you MAY have to tune. Im not sure though. So since you got a MAF sensor, you would benefit some gains. Since i changed cams from stock to LT1, Every shift while punched chirps the tires.

 

Your 350 was a roller motor from the factory. Jason's 305 utilizes a flat tappet cam block. The LT1 cam is a roller cam, and will not work in his car unless the block is mod'd for a roller cam. That's all there is to it.

Jason, I agree with you. That is a very common sense explanation of the stall characteristic of a torque convertor. I also think you are on track for achieving your goals with this car.

 

Converter, gears will make it feel better. can do a mild cam and good 3" catback if you dont want to change headers. Good quiet catback and shorty headers with cats will keep it quiet. my L98 didnt change volume wise with shorty headers thru the same cat but the tone changed to a much nicer sound. Definately picked up some power tho.

Once I gutted the cat that car got LOUD, but no where near as loud as a 11 to 1 compression 383 so its still good to go.

Few TPI bolt ons will really help too and still keep it stock looking. it is alot of money to spend on a mild motor tho.

Custom prom burning can extract a few ponies too.

All in all, with cam similar to l98's or slightly bigger, good exhaust and tune it should see 25-30hp i'd say. Enough to pick up into the 14's with converter and gear on sticky tires

 

Rebuild a nice 350 or 305 roller block would be my first choice, then drop it in wen ready. Tuning is mandatory for a nice clean stretable set up.
If everything is done nice, no hack job, it can only add value to the car, in my opinion.
You basically turn it in to how it should have left the factory. Dream-car for real.

Could always keep the old engine and tune in storage, though I doubt someone would ever pay for it.

2 & 3. A mild cam with narrow body 1.5 roller rockers, will fit the stock valve covers. Comp cams camquest6 can give you some ideas.

4 & 5. The whole 91-92 dual cat exhaust is the best stock exhaust that came on these cars. Headers in front of it will not make it much louder.

350 and 305 exhaust manifolds are the same, the 91-92 dual cat exhaust manifolds are around 0.2 in ID larger were they connect to the Y pipe, then the older ones.

 

1- I dont think i noticed a difference, my tpi setup came with it so i wasnt going to throw it away. if anything with the k&ns its a little more snappy with the throttle but nothing to go crazy about.

2- ok well im at this stage with my car. I have a lunati voodoo cam in my 305. rough specs are 250ish in 260ish ex duration and .470ish lift. I cant go over .5 lift because my pistons are not relieved enough for it. I do like this cam. it does require a tune (which i still need) because it stumbles part throttle and is hard starting. ( it just needs more fuel at certain rpms and such) Overall i love the cam, it has a smooth idle, EFI friendly, sounds nice under load, and it put my car into 14.8 at the track on the stock tune, crappy tires, bad ignition coil and first time at the track. So im thinking with a tune, more practice, and better tires i should be low 14s at the least. Your best bet is to call cam companies and tell them what you have and what you want to do, they will give you a list of a few choices based on how radical you want to be with it. My car is long gone from stock so im thinking about putting a bigger cam in since i have to get it tuned anyways might as well go all out.

3- as far as the TC it depends on the cam, again the cam companies will tell you what stall to get with the cam. as far as a brand im not sure, i have a 5spd in my car so im not up to date on the autos as much. im sure a quick search should find answers. and gears is same, you dont want tall (2.73's) with a torque based cam. they need to match otherwise the car will be a dog and just not what you wanted.

 

Yeah. I know its a roller cam. I got one in my 86, which had an LB9 (305). I mentioned this only because he wanted to look stock. So the bigger upgrade would be the 350 (L98) would be the bigger, economic way to go. With that said, I figured that the author of the post would of known the difference to the LB9 flat-tappit and the L98 roller hydraulic
lifter. Besides, before you try to insult my intelligence, know your history first. You mentioned that my "350 was a roller motor from the factory." Nope. I have an 86 IROC. All 86 IROC's come out of the factory as LB9. There where a few L98's but they were only test vehicles. If you believe that they did come out with a 86 L98, check the vin codes of your suspecting 86. The code that you'll always find in a 86 IROC is a "F", not an "8"

 

A few thoughts on the subject...

305 TPI and 350 TPI manifolds are the same damn thing. The only cars that got the smaller outlet manifolds were the LG4 and L03's.

The 86 T/A LB9 has a handful of shortcomings. The first most obvious, and easy/cheap to correct is the terrible intake ducting. You've got the rubber bellows, a huge air silencer, the MAF sensor, an elbow, then the can/filter, and the smallest restrictive intake on any thirdgen. At the least, get yourself a 88-89 air intake setup. If you want it all to bolt up, you need the top radiator support/fan bracket, and the matching MAF sensor bracket from the later car. You can even leave the can out of the equation and clamp the filter between the lid and the base to increase airflow.

As mentioned you've already got the HO manifolds, the Y pipe is decent, and the LB9 got a 3" cat that year. The rest of the stock exhaust is 2.75 back to a dual out 2.25" muffler just like a later HO car. I wouldn't mess with it. Short of headers, exhaust mods are only going to make the car louder.

The next place I'd look is either the gears, or the camshaft. Since the cam is cheaper and easier it's a logical first choice. Skip the fancy rockers, and just buy a cam with the lift you want. It's a flat tappet, so you can get one cheap. Just be mindful of the computer and don't go overboard. Summit has a couple dirt cheap grinds they used to recommend specifically for 85-86 TPI cars, that work OK. While you've got the intake off, you might as well port the plenum, and runners. It's not worth a lot of performance, but it can't hurt and it's easy enough to do. Early TPI cars have a HUGE wall behind the throttle bores, grind it down and blend it in. The runners have some small steps just inside the flanges that can be smoothed out with a Dremel and sanding drums, it doesn't take long. If you want, a throttle body airfoil is relatively dirt cheap and doesn't hurt anything.

After that, get some gears. 2.77's are NEVER going to feel peppy. Find yourself a 3 series carrier for the 9 bolt and get yourself some 3.27 or 3.45 gears. It'd be expensive, but it'd make a seat of the pants difference.

Dumping the goofy air intake, swapping cams, and gears will have an effect you will notice. Just avoid spending a ton of money on ignition upgrades, and fancy race parts that aren't going to make a lick of difference at the RPM that TPI operates.

 

I only have experience with TC's on built L98's, LT1's and LS1's.
3600 stall on a heads/cam L98 with a Stealthram (2 of my friends have camaros with these combos)
3800 Stall on a heads/cam/ forged internal LT1 (my brothers setup in his 96 Trans Am)
4000 and 4800 stalls on heads/cam LS1's. (my brothers 96 has an LS1 in it with a 4000 stall, and my friend has a 98 Z28 with the 4800 stall)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7yhFo33ilQ

 

My point is simple. ALL 350's in our cars were roller cam engines and ALL 305's for 86 were flat tappet cam engines. If you have a 350 originally from a third gen F-body (regardless of the model year) IT WAS A ROLLER ENGINE FROM THE FACTORY.
I don't need your history lesson. I am just helping the guy out. Do you think you are the only one who's going to read what I wrote? No, it's not all about you. Others are going to read this post. Don't get so easily offended.