Well I have done a bunch of searches and I can't seem to nail this problem I have been having. The car wants to idle at 1500rpm all the time... The lowest I can get it to go (while screwing up the TPS voltage) is around 1100. I replaced the 02 sensor, plugs (terribly fouled), wires, distributor cap, coolant temp sensor to no avail. I have checked all the other sensors and looked for vacuum leaks, but nothing seems to make the car run any better. Timing is right on... Also no matter what I do or disconnect I can't get the check engine light to come on... Burnt out from being on constantly? Any ideas? Something is pointing me to the EGR solenoid as it is not mounted on the firewall, its just kind of sitting on top of everything with the vacuum lines still attached

 

Whats the voltage on the TPS? It should be around .54. Also has anyone messed witht he idle control screw on the car? I went through the same thing as you did with my car except mines is a 2.8. The EGR might also be to blame for the problem aswell if nothing else is amiss. The car might be dumping more fuel into the engine to comepnsate for the extra air.

 

Do you get code 12 when you try to pull the codes?

 

Thanks for the responses... I'm wondering if I have a possible bad ECM, because even after replacing the bulbs in the dash (which looked fine) I still never have a cel? The TPS voltage is right on after I metered and adjusted it. When I got the car the idle screw was backed out all the way not touching the throttle linkage at all... I set it about half way in with the TPS voltage set correctly. If I back it out it will idle at 1100 but stumble sometimes which would point me towards a vacuum leak of some kind. I capped off the EGR today and don't see a difference... This is killing me!

 

One thing to note is that right before I purchased the car, a double roller timing chain was installed. The thing sure is noisy... I wonder if that was done correctly?

 

So, the light NEVER flashes, even when you ground A and B on the ALDL?

 

It should still flash a code 12 to tell you everything is ok as far as the ECM goes when you ground A and B.

 

Exactly... Which worries me, because I should def be getting the code 12 with the engine off at least. I really appreciate the help here. Thanks!

 

I suspect a bad ECM then.

 

Come to think of it, I wonder if it could be a bad ground of some kind? Is there a main bolt somewhere on the block for my ECM grounds? Also I think my tac reads high (and is wrong) because it will shoot up to like 6k when it shifts and the engine is def not revving to 6k!

 

did you check the CTS in the manifold. One that goes bad will make the car run rich and there's no code.

 

There are two sets of grounds, one at the back of each head. Even with those off though, I've been able to communicate with the ECM. Verify you're connecting the right two terminals on the ALDL, and it should flash the code 12. If not, your ECM or wiring is suspect.

 

check for vacuum leaks under the plenum and around the runners.

 

No vacuum leaks that I could find... But this was the first time I decided to play with the injector harness. I unplugged each injector for a second to see what would happen and each injector I unplugged would cause the engine to stumble, until I got to injector for cylinder #8 and it made no difference whether or not it was plugged in. I am wondering if this injector is choking the system somehow, possibly clogged or leaking to much fuel at different times when it decides to function? I may run injector cleaner again and see what happens.

 

Could be. could be that the pintle got sticky. It happens when they sit. Sounds very likely.

Send me a PM I'll give you a good price on a set.

If they don't do the trick, you can return them.

 

I may have to grab a set soon! I bet this is my problem... No noticeable fuel smell at first... Rough idle shaky... Running lean... Engine compensates by adding more fuel to properly functioning injectors... Engine runs rich and fuel smell is evident... Sound right?

 

My gut instinct is that it has something to do with your ECM. At a minumum, you should be able to get the code 12. Even in a perfectly running engine you can get a code 12. Not being able to get that code would concern me.

 

I think that is one of multiple problems I have, but I know for sure now my #8 injector must be clogged beyond being able to function, because I am getting voltage to the injector and the injector has a good reading (same as the others) when I put a meter to it, but it isn't adding fuel. I think I might pick up a whole set of injectors from injectorsplus if I can't somehow get it to function. Removing the injector doesn't look fun...

 

Certainly one of multiple problems... After tapping on it and checking it with a 9v battery it now clicks and I hear it spray, but my performance still sucks. The car feels like its going to fly apart at 60mph and my 0-60 mph time is probably approaching 12-13 seconds.