I'm returning to the U.S. soon from my deployment from Afghanistan to start on my project. It's an 92 Camaro TPI 5.7 I picked up while deployed. Here's the kicker. I'm looking to run at least 10.80 in the 1/4 mile when done. With that being said, I want it done without changing to many factory parts. I know it's not going to be accomplished without a power adder and that's cool. So on to the parts list so far. Pics on my page.

AS&M runners
GM TPI base ported to AFR 195 heads(385IN2005)
GM ported plenum(385IN2005)
MSD distrib, 6AL, timing retard, plug wires, coil
Nitrous Dave plate kit with NANO system
1 step colder plugs NGK
Dyno Don 1 3/4 headers & y-pipe for dual cats
spare fuel rails with injectors.

Now here's the kicker again. The car has to be emission legal. 1/4 mile time's on stock 10 bolt and rear end gears(3.23) and supporting parts.
Now I still need to purchase the heads and a cam. I've been talking to some TGO members about cams but still a little undecided. Any suggestions, tips, tuning help will be appreciated. I know it can be done cheaper with engine swap but I'm staying true to the TPI it came with. It's not a question of can it happen, but when it's going to happen!

 

Your goal is really not obtainable with stock parts and nitrous. Even if the engine could make the power and hold up which is not likely unless you are planning on changing everything, the 10 bolt rear end will not handle the power.

To run 10.80's in a 3500 lb car will require 600 plus HP and very good traction. Good traction will destroy the drivetrain and 600 plus HP is not possible with a near stock engine even with nitrous.

Determine your budget and then determine an obtainable goal. You can run 10.80's with a 3500 lb f-body but there will be few stock parts in the drivetrain.

 

I never said a stock engine. It can be done with a stock 10 bolt housing if you build your set up around it. http://xtremecarzone.com.au/index.php?showtopic=386 Read this then tell someone who else it cant be done who dont want to spend the money too. Cause you haven't done it , doesn't mean its not obtainable. I will run 10.80's on a GM 10 bolt if thats better for you.Oh, I don't have a budget. Whatever it takes, I will spend

 

I have read the article you attached and it demenstrates why I made my statement. A highly modified long tube runner engine makes around 460 HP with a 383. Your original mission statement was to run 10.80's with almost all stock parts only changing the ones that needed to be changed to run 10.80's. I am telling you that you can run 10.80's in a 3500 LB F-body, but there will be no stock parts in the drivetrain to accomplish this goal. I have run the math required to estimate the minimium HP required to run 10.80's with 3500 LBS and it is 549.5 HP at the rear tires, which is 686 HP at the engine with a 20% drive train loss.

You can get 686 HP out of a SBC but it is going to require all aftermarket parts and some sort of power adder if you want it to be streetable (especially is you are planning to use the long tube runners that you have listed). Even then you probably will not accomplish your goal. For the most part, nitrous can add a maximium of 1.5 times the power of the base engine (if built correctly). The 460 HP on a highly modified long tube runner engine times 1.5 is 690 HP. This goal will very difficult to accomplish with a long tube runner stock blocked engine due to many reasons.

The stock 10 bolt rear end will not hande that much power no matter what you do to it. The case is too weak and will flex shattering the weak pinion and gear. If the gear and pinion somehow survive the 28 spline axles will snap off. There are no aftermarket parts available for the stock 10 bolt style rear end that can make it live at your required power levels. (The max real power limit of a modified stock style 10 bolt is about 450 HP). You will have to switch to a 12 bolt, 9 inch or S60 rear end if you want to accomplish your goal.

I do not want to seem like a know it all, I am just trying to prevent you from making some initial costly mistakes. I have drag raced for 20 plus years and my current car is a 8 second 1973 vette. I can tell you from experience that everything that can break will break when you start pushing a car that hard, unless the plan is carefully laid out. I have seen countless 10 bolt rear end in F-bodies break trying to run 12's much less 10's.

 

What bjanski said. Nice to see what you can extract from factory stuff and would be fun to watch your results, just be realistic. Sometimes too much web info can get one excited only to be humbled when you hit the track. Not trying to be a downer

takes a lot more to drop a tenth or two when youre going 11s than it does when youre running 14s. 10s is a very hard nut to crack. Big torque is good, at a certain level youre going to need hp to run the number though

Just build it keep tossing the bottle at it and post up. it wil run what its going to run

 

Alot of guys have gone fast with stock rear ends. I've been 9.73 on my 4th gen 10 bolt and another guy on this forum has done 9.4's I think on a stock rear...i dont recall the actual numbers.

May not hold forever but they may take some abuse from an auto and a smooth launch. My 383 with a 150 shot was a 10.6's car with 1.41-1.45 60 foots on a stock rear. 3450lb raceweight.

that being said, I'd go with a 383 if you can, keep compression in the mid 10's to 1 or even 11 to 1. Cam it up to force TPI to hold onto power after it peaks in the mid high 4000 range, and hit it with a 150-175 shot. It should get into the 10.80's as long as the launch is there. 3000 stall or so, spraying at the top of that converter and praying the rear will hold. Some have some have not. If it holds, it should scoot.

TPI is going to make it harder to do since a short runner intake will get you into the mid low 11's on a 383 with those specs. Then your just a 100 shot away.

If you do a progressive hit to save the rear, such as spraying at the top of first, you will need more spray like 175 shot. My car spraying midway (4800 rpm) through first gear went 10.90's. Spraying on the converter (3600) it went 10.63 Same shot but a difference of .12 or so 60 foot.

 

We need to frame this discussion around the OP original plan, he wants to use a TPI style long tube runner design to run these numbers which means he is going to have high torque and low HP. He won't be running 141 MPH in the quarter with 1.7 60 ft times. He will have to use the high torque output to get out quick which will require 1.4's 60 ft times at 125 MPH to run the desired 10.8's. Maybe you can do it a few times but it will break sooner rather then latter. I have no faith in the F-body style 10 bolt because I have seen many of them break at the strip and usually with terrible outcomes. If the axles break they may come out and damage the car or worse yet crashes the car and gets people hurt.

There is no good reason to run a stock style 10 bolt at those ET's.

 

This discussion is centered on his original plan. If you use TPI, I'm suggesting a larger nitrous shot because it wont make the power to run as good an ET as a short runner setup. TPI does well with torque off the line and short 330 ft times but after that its a dog. Nitrous will help the back half of the track.

To be clear, this is not going to be done with an ALL motor TPI in a 3500 lb car. It will require nitrous. Guys have sprayed bolt on low 13 second TPI L98 cars into the high 11's with 150+ shots with good sucesss on stock rears, so getting a low 12 second TPI based motor into the high 10's should be doable with less than 200 shot and still live if the motor is built and tuned right. Not suggesting a heads/cam/nitrous stock shortblock but guys have done that too and lived

Yes, the rear is a grenade awaiting explosion, in time, but it is possible it could live for a little while. My experience has showed this and I know others having success on stock rears. Now these are 4th gen rears that do have the 28spline axles and some have the zexel torsen diffs which I like more than a clutch posi, but his being a 92 should have the 28 spline and if the posi is in good shape it will hold.

My opinion is if you progressively bring the nitrous in or spray alittle higher in first gear to eliminate the initial torque shock to the rear end that nitrous gives, there will be less stress on the rear and it will live longer. At 3000 rpm off the top of a converter with a 150 shot, there will be ALOT of torque produced with TPI so avoiding that will help rear end life but sacrifice ET/60 foots. Thats why you need to spray more to make up for it on the top end of the track.

Another thing helping this situation is that TPI has a low rpm power band. You dont have to rev so high so you dont need to over gear the car. This means you will have more material on the ring and pinion. Gears like 2.73-3.42 are going to be stronger than the higher ratio 3.73's, 3.90's and 4.10's. Its all based on the material on the gear set so there is less likely a chance you will shear the teeth off. But this does not stop the broken axles and cracked carriers that also happen. Atleast do a C-clip eliminator for safety and I think it will live.
You already got 3.23's and thats is a perfect match for a 383 TPI based motor running 125mph. Thats 5219 rpm assuming locked converter and 26" tire, and factor in 5-8% more rpm for a slipping converter. A decent cammed 383 TPI will hold power to 5500 so I think you are set in that department.

Else get a rear end, but 2500 bucks is a lot to drop on a rear end. Thats the main reason I dont have one yet

 

http://nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/pro...3&product=4372 this came with my nitrous kit. For the one's who ran 10.80 or faster on 10 bolt, thanks for your support. This won't we a deticated drag race car. I was lucky enough to find a 92 Camaro with 30+ factory options with one being a posi from GM. I know the rear end won't take years of abuse guys I know. Might not make it one pass. Breaking parts is part of racing. It's not always about the end results, it's the journey. Going from 14's to 13's to 12's to 11's to 10's. Someone sometime ago probably said the same things to you about it can't be done or it's going to break etc. etc.............. If it never runs 10.80's I live just fine. If I waste money oh well. Cars are not the hobby to save money or be cheap with. I break it, I fix it and try again.

 

Haven't updated in a while. The Army got me all over the place!!. I'm in El Paso, Tx/Ft. Bliss now hope to have time to work on her again. Fuel pump going out that's for sure. Anyone near El Paso willing to help me build her?