Have you tested your pickup coil ?

 

minimun idle speed adjustment: ;With the iac connected ,ground the diagnostic lead.Turn ignition on do not start the engine wait a least 30 seconds.With ignition on disconect iac electrical connector .Disconnect the distributor set timming connector.Start the engine and allow to go closed loop.Remove ground from diagnostic terminal.Adjust idle stop screw to 450 rpm in neutral.Turn ignition off and reconnect connector at iac.

 

set timming:Motor at normal running temp.Disconnect est by blower(single wire) and adjust timming,look on the hood for emission label is probably at 6 and transmission in drive,when set you will see a code 42 because the wire was disconnected.

 

The only thing I did different according to your minimum air idle speed adjustment instructions was i didnt adjust it to 450 rpm in netrual, I did it in drive. And when i set the timing I left the IAC disconnected. According to Mitchell it said to adjust the timing to 6 degrees advanced with trans in drive and with engine idling at 400-450 rpm. Not sure how much of a difference it would make but I might try it exactly the way you stated elpulpo. Also yesterday was the first time I set the minimum air idle speed with the EST disconnected as well. TTOP350 I think you might be on to something, i was thinking about this last night. I started taking off the cap and rotor to check it out but it started to get dark. From what I saw so far it looked like somebody used some green di electric grease or some kind of shitty protectant on the terminals where the pick up coil plugs into the HEI module. Might be making a crappy connection as the grease looks all old and dried up. Also the bottom of the HEI module looks a lil dirty. Doesnt the metal on the bottom of the Module ground through the Distributor housing? If so it looks like a real crappy ground IMO.

 

There is no need to disconect the iac when setting the timing,car must be at normal running temp and with the EST in by pass mode disconnecting a single wire connector.

 

Pick up coil should read infinite at all times and should read one steady value between 500-1500

 

if you set timing and iac where they should be and it runs worse you got to be suckin air from the wrong place.

 

Yeah but I've gone through 3 cans of carb cleaner to find no vacuum leaks.

 

Well, in case ya'll wanted to know I fixed the problem. Turns out the injectors that fuel injector connection sent me were the wrong ones. Stock injectors on a TPI 350 are supposed to be 22lb/hr. I ordered 24lb/hr. I decided to look up the part number on the injectors i got and it turns out they are 19lb/hr. So for right now I did some math and upped the fuel pressure to about 57 PSI which is about close to the same flow as you would get from a 22lb/hr injector. But I gotta get the right injectors in there, as 57 PSI could cause the pump to prematurely fail, and I DO NOT want to do a pump for a REALLLLY long time. Thanks again to everyone who posted with suggestions and information I really appreciate it. Hopefully I will be able to help one of you in the future!

 

Are you on a stock pump? if you have a walbro 57 psi won't hurt it. Although I def would step up to the correct injector.

 

Nah dont have a walbro, sadly. Got a bosch OEM replacement from Napa. Says its rated for 50 PSI so hopefully it doesn't ruin the pump. Although i should be a pro at dropping the rear by now. But I'm gonna try and get the right injectors in the car ASAP. They better take these injectors back

 

well if they didn't send you what you ordered then they should own up!

 

Hey glad to hear you got it fixed. So when you upped the pressure did the problems just go away? I have been having similar problems you have had but I have 22lb injectors. But I think one of the injectors are messed up. from this thread one may be clogged or leaking. But I don't have the money to replace them right now so I guess I'll have to hurry up and wait

 

yeah it totally helped my problems...I went out this morning and started it and the for the first time without it stalling! It was amazing, still a lil driveability issues till it warms up a bit but im trying to push the ammount a 22lb injector would flow through a 19lb injector, so I need to get the right injectors on the car. Plus I dont want to grenade my fuel pump running 57 PSI. cause i really dont wanna drop the rear and the tank outta that thing for a LONG time.

 

Well, the right injectors have been shipped out already. They felt really bad that they sent my the wrong ones. So when i get my new ones i just gotta swap them in and send the ones I have back. Talk about customer service! lunaticinaZ it could be possible that one of your injectors are clogged, do you have those crappy stock MULTEC injectors or are they bosch's or accels or something? Cause my stock MULTEC's looked like GARBAGE when i took em out.

 

Yeah I have the stock ones. I cleaned them up before I out them in with the 350 swap, they had been setting in a box for god knows how long. But I think we are right, I think one or more are bad, but I was thinking maybe one is leaking instead of clogged because when I get to operating temp. My car runs real rich. it even get so bad sometimes it will have a miss at idle and crusing speeds. And hot restarts is a problem, it will turn over for a long time before it fires . But in the AM it idles fine and has no misses. So I'm thinking I have all of your symptoms just backwards, so that leads me to believe I have a leaky injector.

 

Sounds like a leaking injector is very possible. Those stock MULTECs are juuuunkkk! I guess put a fuel pressure gauge on it run the car and shut it off and see if pressure drops fast. That would be a sure sign of a leaky injector, or a check valve not holding. If pressure does drop you could put the pressure gauge in the spot of the fuel filter and if it holds pressure than you know for sure the injectors are the culprit.

 

Glad to hear you have it sorted out. You wont hurt the pump by raising your PSI. Also if you see the green fuzzy stuff on your pickup coil replace it! its a sign of going down. Also spraying carb cleaner close to the pickup coil will cause the fuzzy stuff and failures..

 

yeah I will probably replace it anyway its only like 13 bucks and its not hard to replace. It wasnt really fuzzy, it was only on the terminal connectors, like somebody tried to grease em to protect them or something.

 

Ok, its been a while but I'm really pissed off at Fuel Injector Connection. Has anybody ordered injectors from these guys?? Does anybody know if their Bosch design III's are 22lb rebuilds? Because after 2 weeks of them bullshittin me saying they are sending me out the right injectors i finally called them up very pissed off and they overnight shipped a set of injectors. I got the injectors and they are THE SAME PART NUMBER thats already on my maro! (part number is F4SE-A1B by the way) and they come up as Ford 19lb injectors. If anybody knows anything about these being 22lb rebuilds, let me know. Other wise im gonna call them up. I'm not tearing apart my plenum again to replace an injector with the same part number.

 

Damn, I'm glad I read this whole thread; I was just about to order injectors from these guys!

 

Old post, but relevant to me right now.

5.7 TPI car here, same sort of issues. Just randomly it will start up like that and throw a code 24. I just rebuilt the speedometer 3x and ensured I had the correct speedo gears.

I'm thinking IAC or TPS. I don't think but haven't confirmed if the idle air adjustment has been touched, ever. I know the injectors are the originals.

Going to keep this up as I continue to diag.

 

Any check engine lights? How's the fuel pressure? When the car starts up when engine is warm does it crank a long time and do you have to press the gas pedal to get it started? Smell gas when it finally starts? If yes to either of those than injectors are done and if original the ethanol gas probably finished them off and you should just replace them and FPR diaphragm. Bosch III are good replacements and can be had for not a ton of money from Southbay, there is even a decent write up in the how to section on changing injectors if interested.

I have never dealt with a code 24 so I can't help with that, but you might want to start your own thread, might some more views.

Keep us posted on your diagnosis.