1987 TPI project and pobs
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 939
Likes: 0
From: Detroit, MI
Car: 1987 IROC-Z red t-top
Engine: Nothing much
Transmission: I wish t56
Axle/Gears: 9bolt 3.27 4sale
1987 TPI project and pobs
HI, I have a 1987 Camaro IROC Z 305 TPI cam, headers, exhast, and a 3.27 9bolt. Bout a high to mid 13s car.
This winter i will be adding a 383 eagle rotating dish pistons D shape, TPIS miniram and ZZ-409 cam, 52 mm TB, 30# injectors, and G.M. Fast Burn heads.
The first prob I have is when I drive for a period of time when its hot, If I sit it will shut off and I i can not start the car or if i cut it off i cant cut it back on i have to wait like 30 to 1 hour to start i thought it was the ignition control module so i did a bypass and it still do the same thing (wire to starter and 1 to the battery) and it wont start when it off.
The second prob is what ecu I will have to run what program I do not know how to program it I would love to know how. The compression will be 10.53 to 1 can I run pump gas.
The third prob is, can the stock 9bolt hold up it should be a 500 HP FWHP. Can a LS1 rearend with stronger axles and better ring and pinion. Will a stock LS1 drive shaft (alm) hold up.
And final whats the part # for the rear brakes and rotors for the 9bolt it came out of a 86 TA and I tried looking up whats the Part # for the longer studs for the LS1 brake swap for the fronts.
This winter i will be adding a 383 eagle rotating dish pistons D shape, TPIS miniram and ZZ-409 cam, 52 mm TB, 30# injectors, and G.M. Fast Burn heads.
The first prob I have is when I drive for a period of time when its hot, If I sit it will shut off and I i can not start the car or if i cut it off i cant cut it back on i have to wait like 30 to 1 hour to start i thought it was the ignition control module so i did a bypass and it still do the same thing (wire to starter and 1 to the battery) and it wont start when it off.
The second prob is what ecu I will have to run what program I do not know how to program it I would love to know how. The compression will be 10.53 to 1 can I run pump gas.
The third prob is, can the stock 9bolt hold up it should be a 500 HP FWHP. Can a LS1 rearend with stronger axles and better ring and pinion. Will a stock LS1 drive shaft (alm) hold up.
And final whats the part # for the rear brakes and rotors for the 9bolt it came out of a 86 TA and I tried looking up whats the Part # for the longer studs for the LS1 brake swap for the fronts.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,859
Likes: 14
From: Cypress, California
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 369 TPI
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Nine Bolt
Re: 1987 TPI project and pobs
"The third prob is, can the stock 9bolt hold up it should be a 500 HP FWHP."
Mine is but I also have the TA rear cover.
Mine is but I also have the TA rear cover.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 58
Likes: 1
From: Tennessee
Car: 1985 Black and Gold Trans Am
Engine: 305 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: T5 Borg Warner Manual 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Re: 1987 TPI project and pobs
I have a similar problem. Looking through these forums, and other online resources, it could be a number of things. Since I am not a mechanic, or have a factory manual, I've been systematically changing out the cheaper items cause I know I know I was going to replace them anyway.
Can be bad ICM, ECM, Fuel Pressure regulator, injector going bad, faulty bridge in solder joint in the fuel pump relay, cap and rotor, emissions problem, throttle position sensor, and as I have found out a bad vehicle speed sensor under certain conditions can produce that effect. Also, knock sensor, and others that I can't remember off the top of my head. Then there are the lesser obvious things that I never seem to think of like a plugged fuel filter or getting a hold of some crappy gasoline. Some of the things I've mentioned don't sound like they would cause a problem, but again, various sources online say that under certain conditions, this can happen. Also, if the oil pressure drops to a certain point, it will cut the car off. I changed out an oil pressure sensor earlier this year and solved that problem.
A bad ground can cause that.
I've read a lot of people having this problem too. I think they are all differently related. Personally, I know my new fuel pump and ecm were working fine cause I've been driving it for the past year, so those are not the problem.
I've changed the tps, cap, rotor, ignition coil, mass air flow sensor relays (for a different reason though), and going to do the fuel pump relay today. Knock sensors will be next.
I suspect mine is an injector going bad, but I am holding that out for last cause I want to change them all at one pop.
I had a few codes tripping earlier, and by doing whatever I did, I am down to the vehicle speed sensor which I know would trip cause I never put it in - been driving without one for a year now (not knowing truly how fast I was going.)
I don't know if that helps, but thought I would post since nobody else has.
Can be bad ICM, ECM, Fuel Pressure regulator, injector going bad, faulty bridge in solder joint in the fuel pump relay, cap and rotor, emissions problem, throttle position sensor, and as I have found out a bad vehicle speed sensor under certain conditions can produce that effect. Also, knock sensor, and others that I can't remember off the top of my head. Then there are the lesser obvious things that I never seem to think of like a plugged fuel filter or getting a hold of some crappy gasoline. Some of the things I've mentioned don't sound like they would cause a problem, but again, various sources online say that under certain conditions, this can happen. Also, if the oil pressure drops to a certain point, it will cut the car off. I changed out an oil pressure sensor earlier this year and solved that problem.
A bad ground can cause that.
I've read a lot of people having this problem too. I think they are all differently related. Personally, I know my new fuel pump and ecm were working fine cause I've been driving it for the past year, so those are not the problem.
I've changed the tps, cap, rotor, ignition coil, mass air flow sensor relays (for a different reason though), and going to do the fuel pump relay today. Knock sensors will be next.
I suspect mine is an injector going bad, but I am holding that out for last cause I want to change them all at one pop.
I had a few codes tripping earlier, and by doing whatever I did, I am down to the vehicle speed sensor which I know would trip cause I never put it in - been driving without one for a year now (not knowing truly how fast I was going.)
I don't know if that helps, but thought I would post since nobody else has.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 939
Likes: 0
From: Detroit, MI
Car: 1987 IROC-Z red t-top
Engine: Nothing much
Transmission: I wish t56
Axle/Gears: 9bolt 3.27 4sale
Re: 1987 TPI project and pobs
Well im not going to throw money at it i kno its not a fuel prob because it will turn over and wont start mine wont turn over i have a switch on the starter direct bypassing everything its like testing a starter i run power str8 2 it and nothing im putting my money on the starter but its starting 2 get cold so the prob is not that bad i will be doing the 383 swap in the winter so new starter
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 939
Likes: 0
From: Detroit, MI
Car: 1987 IROC-Z red t-top
Engine: Nothing much
Transmission: I wish t56
Axle/Gears: 9bolt 3.27 4sale
Re: 1987 TPI project and pobs
What's a good quite muffler for my car I have flows on it now when I drop a bigger cam and motor I don't want ppl 2 kno I rollin with 500hp I will but cut outs on it so I can get full power. Anyone kno where I can get a chip for my set up it I run nos, procharger, or a taller rear end get like 410 do I need2 chang the ecu or mod it again if so I will have diff ecu for diff races
Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 428
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, AB
Car: '87 Z-28
Engine: LT1-topped 400
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 939
Likes: 0
From: Detroit, MI
Car: 1987 IROC-Z red t-top
Engine: Nothing much
Transmission: I wish t56
Axle/Gears: 9bolt 3.27 4sale
Re: 1987 TPI project and pobs
i dont kno trans verry well so i dont veiw them if ppl asking ???
Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 428
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, AB
Car: '87 Z-28
Engine: LT1-topped 400
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: 1987 TPI project and pobs
So your school of thought is that if a person isn't 100% knowledgeable on a certain topic, they shouldn't even bother looking at a post about it, regardless of whether they think it might fall under the parts they do know or contribute to their knowledge? That's kinda stupid... I'm not an expert on anything but I look at posts that I think I might be able to help with; if I can offer some suggestions, I consider it a win, and if I learn something I also consider it a win.
"1987 TPI project and pobs" is hardly a descriptive title, and your language is somewhat difficult to decipher. Depending on my mood I might read the first two sentences of a post like yours and hit the "Back" button without going any further. You ask multiple questions within the post, none of which describe an issue exclusive to TPI engines, and some of which should be in either the transmission board or the wheels and brakes board. Don't complain that every person who's glanced at your post isn't offering expert advice.
Finally, if you want help accurately diagnosing your problems, flood us with information. Regarding your no-start issue, does the starter turn at all? If so, is it sluggish, is it engaging the flywheel/ring gear and turning the engine, and the engine just isn't firing? If it isn't turning, do you hear the click of the solenoid when you turn the key? This sort of information is essential in helping you sort out the problem.
Check the ECM board and the DIY PROM board for help with reprogramming/tuning your ECM to support the new engine components. 10.5:1 is doable on pump gas; you'll probably want to run premium.
Horsepower doesn't break rear ends; torque does. If you're planning to make 500 HP with a TPI system you're looking at probably 400-450 ft-lb of torque. That's more than enough to break a stock 9-bolt if you get traction. Don't put drag slicks on your car without upgrading the rear, and don't do stupid-hard launches. IIRC, an LS1 rear end is the same as an LT1 rear end, is the same carrier and gears as a third-gen 10-bolt, which is weaker than a 9-bolt.
I've no clue about part numbers or the LS1 brake swap, suggest you do a search in the Brakes forum.
"1987 TPI project and pobs" is hardly a descriptive title, and your language is somewhat difficult to decipher. Depending on my mood I might read the first two sentences of a post like yours and hit the "Back" button without going any further. You ask multiple questions within the post, none of which describe an issue exclusive to TPI engines, and some of which should be in either the transmission board or the wheels and brakes board. Don't complain that every person who's glanced at your post isn't offering expert advice.
Finally, if you want help accurately diagnosing your problems, flood us with information. Regarding your no-start issue, does the starter turn at all? If so, is it sluggish, is it engaging the flywheel/ring gear and turning the engine, and the engine just isn't firing? If it isn't turning, do you hear the click of the solenoid when you turn the key? This sort of information is essential in helping you sort out the problem.
Check the ECM board and the DIY PROM board for help with reprogramming/tuning your ECM to support the new engine components. 10.5:1 is doable on pump gas; you'll probably want to run premium.
Horsepower doesn't break rear ends; torque does. If you're planning to make 500 HP with a TPI system you're looking at probably 400-450 ft-lb of torque. That's more than enough to break a stock 9-bolt if you get traction. Don't put drag slicks on your car without upgrading the rear, and don't do stupid-hard launches. IIRC, an LS1 rear end is the same as an LT1 rear end, is the same carrier and gears as a third-gen 10-bolt, which is weaker than a 9-bolt.
I've no clue about part numbers or the LS1 brake swap, suggest you do a search in the Brakes forum.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 58
Likes: 1
From: Tennessee
Car: 1985 Black and Gold Trans Am
Engine: 305 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: T5 Borg Warner Manual 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Re: 1987 TPI project and pobs
"I'm not an expert on anything but I look at posts that I think I might be able to help with; if I can offer some suggestions, I consider it a win, and if I learn something I also consider it a win."
I appreciate you saying something about the lack of information. I found Third Gen to be extremely informational to me in learning trouble-shooting aspects for this type of car.
I saw something in this post that halfway sounded familiar with some of things that I have run into and thought I would share. I readily admitted that I was not a mechanic didn’t know if I could help. But there wasn’t much info there so I thought I would mention some things. I saw a newer “junior member” (like me) asking for some help and nobody initially replied so I thought I would share what limited knowledge I had about the TPI setup (which isn’t much).
In hindsight, I probably shouldn’t have said anything because I discovered this is a “mechanic” asking these questions. (I am sure he knows a lot more about this stuff than I do.) But I do know what works for me and some of the things I have encountered throughout my TPI resto. I have tried to map out my car, find out where all the sensors, actuating devices, and major components are, what they do, and also what they do when they are not functioning properly. (That is why I have kept my car completely stock!) Third Gen is awesome for that!!
I don’t have a TPI Trans Am factory manual, but I do have a L98 TPI corvette manual - a lot of the stuff is the same in regards to how you go about testing something like an injector, but some of the sensors don’t go in the same places, and the schematics are different enough that testing some things the same way don’t work because they are slightly different parts dialed in slightly different. (Oh yeah, I got a Haynes book as my bedtime reader for the Trans Am).
Changing a bunch of things, doing by-pass wiring, and mix matching-parts to me is a recipe for major migraine headaches. Probably cause I don’t know very much about it and immediate answers to problems are not in a manual. But I also know from when my Dad ran Grand National Super Stock tractor pulling in the 80’s that when you got a “hot-rod” and you are constantly changing things to build more power, then the next weakest link is ALWAYS going to break. (If a guy is lucky, the least thing that happens is something is not going to work right away – it takes time to figure it out and believe me, there are people who spend big bucks to have help them figure that out.) It is a never-ending experience and no wallet is ever loaded with enough cash.
Hence, another reason I like a stock set-up – the combination is already dialed in. All a guy has to do is maintain it and he can enjoy driving the car, which to me is the entire purpose of having a car like this.
With that said, I got on here to learn, share, and meet with people who have the same kind of love for this kind of car that I have. Third Gen is a GREAT place for this!!!!
If I don’t know something, I want to look at all the other posts out there! Many times when I post something, I wind up learning so much more that helps me and the best thing is that I don’t have to pay a dime for it! If I can help somebody else just by joining in on the conversation and sharing my experiences, I want to do that too. I certainly appreciate those who chime in on my topics.
I appreciate you saying something about the lack of information. I found Third Gen to be extremely informational to me in learning trouble-shooting aspects for this type of car.
I saw something in this post that halfway sounded familiar with some of things that I have run into and thought I would share. I readily admitted that I was not a mechanic didn’t know if I could help. But there wasn’t much info there so I thought I would mention some things. I saw a newer “junior member” (like me) asking for some help and nobody initially replied so I thought I would share what limited knowledge I had about the TPI setup (which isn’t much).
In hindsight, I probably shouldn’t have said anything because I discovered this is a “mechanic” asking these questions. (I am sure he knows a lot more about this stuff than I do.) But I do know what works for me and some of the things I have encountered throughout my TPI resto. I have tried to map out my car, find out where all the sensors, actuating devices, and major components are, what they do, and also what they do when they are not functioning properly. (That is why I have kept my car completely stock!) Third Gen is awesome for that!!
I don’t have a TPI Trans Am factory manual, but I do have a L98 TPI corvette manual - a lot of the stuff is the same in regards to how you go about testing something like an injector, but some of the sensors don’t go in the same places, and the schematics are different enough that testing some things the same way don’t work because they are slightly different parts dialed in slightly different. (Oh yeah, I got a Haynes book as my bedtime reader for the Trans Am).
Changing a bunch of things, doing by-pass wiring, and mix matching-parts to me is a recipe for major migraine headaches. Probably cause I don’t know very much about it and immediate answers to problems are not in a manual. But I also know from when my Dad ran Grand National Super Stock tractor pulling in the 80’s that when you got a “hot-rod” and you are constantly changing things to build more power, then the next weakest link is ALWAYS going to break. (If a guy is lucky, the least thing that happens is something is not going to work right away – it takes time to figure it out and believe me, there are people who spend big bucks to have help them figure that out.) It is a never-ending experience and no wallet is ever loaded with enough cash.
Hence, another reason I like a stock set-up – the combination is already dialed in. All a guy has to do is maintain it and he can enjoy driving the car, which to me is the entire purpose of having a car like this.
With that said, I got on here to learn, share, and meet with people who have the same kind of love for this kind of car that I have. Third Gen is a GREAT place for this!!!!
If I don’t know something, I want to look at all the other posts out there! Many times when I post something, I wind up learning so much more that helps me and the best thing is that I don’t have to pay a dime for it! If I can help somebody else just by joining in on the conversation and sharing my experiences, I want to do that too. I certainly appreciate those who chime in on my topics.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 939
Likes: 0
From: Detroit, MI
Car: 1987 IROC-Z red t-top
Engine: Nothing much
Transmission: I wish t56
Axle/Gears: 9bolt 3.27 4sale
Re: 1987 TPI project and pobs
the no start every thing i no and what i did. When i drive or sit with the car runnig for an hour or so when i cut the car off it wont start back up. It will not turn over the fuel pump cuts on everything cuts on the starter just dont cut on. when its hot out side it acts up faster. I do have a starer switch on it 2 by pass anything icm and stuff like that its a wire on the power side of the starer and the + post on the battery and that didnt help do i think its the starter. Thanks for the help i have keys missing on key bord so i type in fragment sorry i would hope ppl would ask so i can type in detale
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