here is the deal when i start the car cold it smothers and pops in the air filter box like the mass airflow sensor is bad, but when the car warms up it acts fine. it kinda puts u in the mind of a carb setup unknow just being cold natured, i kno it shld not do this so can anyone help me with this? oh yea ive changed the maf and tps and iac but still acts the same.

 

sounds like maybe your cold start injector is not working so well.

 

i thought all the cold start injector did was supply a short burst of fuel for quick start then the main injectors took it from there.

 

The cold start injector continues to fire until its associated coolant temp sensor reaches a given value, then it shuts off until the engine cools back down, then repeat. Many people have upgraded to a newer program in their prom to delete the 9th injector, me included. Check the condition of the connector on the front of the intake manifold, the one that looks like a fuel injector connector, and the injector connector as well.

Hope this helps.

 

ok so how can I figure out if its the injector itself or the coolant temp switch. just to make sure its the switch in the front of the intake rite.

 

Its one of the two sensors on the front of the intake manifold, driver side is CTS/ETC for computer, and pass. side is CSI switch. I would check the continuity (ohms) of the switch when cold and again when hot, you should see "0" when cold and infinity when hot. I believe the battery supplies a +12v to the switch and (when the switch is closed) to the injector, then the ecm supplies the ground to the injector to fire it. Check all your wiring to make sure you have +12v where you should, when you should.

Hope this helps.

 

bosch 0280130229
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-02801302.../dp/B000CF1RY6

 

$90 for that switch...YIKES!

Nate, just upgrade and be done with the CSI...

 

you think 90 is high look at gm 14084318

 

Thanx for the info tunedperformance that will help alot I've not had much time to fool with it but when I figure it out I will let everyone know. 90 bucks thats not bad to keep it looking original but if it is its best to delete it I will. When I get some free time I will do a search on the delete part and check it out, I have a good fuel rail for a 89 that dnt have the cold start and also have the runners jus finding the time to do it all will be the trick.

 

Nope
You can see from circuit diagram in post # 7 the CSI switch is only powered up while engine is cranking over because it
gets it's power from the starter solenoid terminal which is only hot in the key start position

 

Thanks for the clarification, so it sounds even more like a sensor issue now. Nate, you will probably need access to a scanner to identify the faulty sensor. For a budget scanner do a search for WinALDL.

Good luck.

 

No need to .
Just pull the plug off the CSI and it can't work.
Remove the harness from CSI to CSI switch and make the hot wire from starter safe so it doesn't short out

If you want to make it look purty buy the delete kit for your setup.
No need to swap runners or rails.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-TPI-CO...item3a5bc0ec2c

This is assuming you upgrade to the '89 MAF tune that is programmed to add extra fuel through the std injectors for cold start

 

Had some time to kill this morning so I had the hood up lookin around and noticed some antifreeze on the intake. So I started her up and got it up to temp and found coolant leaking around a intake bolt. Now I'm thinking it is a vacuum leak so when I tear it down that far I have decided to put a new cam a timing set in it 2. What do you guys think is it possibly a vacuum leak then when it gets hot the leak gets smaller cause heat?