ok so just got a 700$ trans am off craigslist

1986 305 tpi (lb9 i belive its called)
700r4 trans
123k miles

heres issue

when i went to look at the car it wouldn't idle on its own till warm.it kept sputtering. then when it did warm up it was at 1000rpm which sounds kinda high for me. i haven't had a v8 car in 10 years and all my honda's idle around 750rpm or so wich i think is normal but i dunno. So i check the codes with a paper clip on the 2 left pins . i get code 12 over and over nothing else and cooling fan was on with that.

so buy the car drive it around the block to uncle bobs. i went to change thermostat because gasket was leaking and coolant was level with thermostat hole in manifold. front bolt took some time but came out. i sprayed the back bolt and tried to work it out slowly but snap. I tried to drill it out but ended up makin a mess of the intake but got it out with a chisel and vise grips so i bought some slightly longer bolts and tapped out the holes . i changed oil (10w30 conventional and some stp additive) pcv valve,air filter,throttle body gasket because tb was in way of removing t stat,i put in a 180 deg thermostat,and i noticed the vacuum hoses to the charcoal can were all decayed and leaking and collapsed,so changed those.
put car together fires right up idles around 750 for 20 seconds then dips to 250 and idles rough but didn't stall this time. i couldn't let i warm up because muffler is missing and cat flange is broken off anyways

any ideas what it could be. car drives fine when i test drove it it had good power trans shifted fine no codes atm he said sometimes when cruising the check engine light would flash for a second but no codes stored

tomorow im gonna remove cat and put in a pipe . and get a oem muffler to quiet it down,remove air pump belt,do rear pads,poor mans trans fluid change(suck fluid out dipstick tube then refill. test drive to someplace far then register it if it drives good.


oh side note my boss had a 87 formula with same motor and similar issue and it was the coolant temp sensor. if thats starting to go would i get a code.

 

For the money you paid and condition of maintenece items found it could be anything. If you have a laptop then get a cable and TunerPro to look at and record data from ECM to see what's really going on.

If it were a bad CTS sensor they usually go bad and read -40c and add choke like crazy, so very RICH!

Go to bottom of this link and download the pdf for diagnosing each circut of the EFI system.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...-CEL-SES-Light

Mechanical things that need to be checked are for vacuum leaks, fuel pressure, timing setting.

HTH!

 

OK so now I have a code 36 which means a bunch of stuff but for this issue maybee maf or is there a relay to burn off the maf

 

 

the maf burn off relay in on the drivers side bulk head.

 

The relay that says maf power on it

 

it fixed it self must been dirty from sitting