As Im tearing into this motor, for the first time, and learning as I go..... I made an observation today that has me a bit confused....

In the pic below, my motor, you will see the the DS air check valve is routed over the plenum to the PS where it connects with the other air check valve line. As I look at the line it seems to be pieced together hap-hazardly indicating it was an after thought.





After looking at several other pics of differetn TPI 350's, I couldnt find one that was routed like mine?

EX:

 

BTW: that filter was toast and has been replaced:





I just pulled-cleaned the fuel rails:



Injectors are soaking now:



Working on cleaning plenum and runners:

 

Disregard, figured it out....and after reading till my eyes bled; and much to the dismay of several in here, I am going to pull them and the pump off.

 

You may be able to pull the vanes out of the pump and use it as a free-wheeling pulley. Cheaper than buying a delete pulley set-up.

 

You should toss those injectors the multec suck. If you delete the air pump you should reprogram the EPROM max the mat vs air setting so the ECM will not add MV to the o2 reading when commanded.

 

how do i ake a post. i want to ask about my fans stay constantly on my 91 rs. is that a big problem?

 

10-4, thanks for the info.... right now Im keeping them as a fiscal matter. Ive also got a huge rear suspension make over going on as well.

What would you suggest for new injectors? Ive been contemplating it because Ill be one pissed of guy to have to go back and do this again in the near future. May as well do it now.

Will do the prom once shes up and running.





Those idler pulleys arent cheap... best price Ive found is $55 from Rock Auto..shipped.



Re-did all the damn loom too, what a Charlie Foxtrot that was:



Appears as though there may be some clearance issues with the CS144?

Got bored:

 

You don't need an idler pulley to replace the Air pump, simply a shorter belt will work.

 

Do yourself a favor and get some Bosch III injectors. When I replaced my Multec injectors with the Bosch III, it idled smoother than it did when the car was brand new.

 

http://www.southbayfuelinjectors.com...502&group=1497

let them know your a tgo member for a 10% discount

 

I think southbay has posted there discount code here

 

Just as a reminder for everyone, the discount code is tg11


At the risk of sounding rude....your injectors look like they should be laid to rest....give them a decent burial

 

Am I wrong, or are the only ones I see for a 92' TPI350 the 24lb Bosch III's for $170...

...because I thought 22lb was OE?

 

http://www.southbayfuelinjectors.com...7&product=1502

 

Not sure if you have bought a bypass pulley yet but here are the part numbers. There are 2 different styles gm 10186167 with a large 6 grove pulley or gm 10129569 flat idler.

 

Ordered up the grooved pulley from Rock Auto..

Still re-searching which injectors to get...

 

I wonder why some one didn't use the correct fuel line routing behind the alt mounting bracket, you should add a second clamp on the rubber lines just to be safe. The pulley is made bye gates so the nice thing is if the bearing wears out you can just get another pulley. I think this one was a gates 38029

 

Good eye... will be re-doing those as well. They wont work with the CS144 alt.

They used to go around the back of the CS130 alt, I have room to route them under the CS144, but will have new ones bent to fit.

Ohh, the link for the injectors says fit up to 91' ?

 

julie or frank will have to fix that lol, 91 in corvette and 92 in f-body tpi.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-92-Camaro...96e0e4&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fragola-4919...2341e3&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fragola-4919...468042&vxp=mtr

on the fuel rail cross over tubes replacing the o-ring s is also goo assurance to prevent a fire. This kit has 2 extra than you need but it's a good price.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...78177&cmpid=cj

 

Just ordered up the injectors, thx for the info on the lines....

 

no problem, to install the lines the alt bracket has to come off ;( that guy seems a little overpriced on the lines and retaining bracket so you might look for someone in the classifieds here parting out a tpi car 88-92.

 

When you say cross over tubes your referring to the connections I have circled in red?



I ordered a set, SK18 from Rock Auto that has 2, my assumption was that they go where the yelloe circles are?

Looks like SK26-27-28 would work??

 

Sk24 in standard or delco 217-440 is for the cross over tubes there are 2 on the other side of the regulator a tube you cant see in the picture. The schrader valve is acdelco 15-31054 and sk18 is for the feed and return the one you circled yellow. Disregard the 9th injector and feed pipe in this picture.

 

Excellent, thx.

 

Did you get an idler to replace the air pump or the ac.

MAybe you missed it, but You do not Have to run and Idler to replace the Air pump. In the Old JTR TPI Swap book, it showed you could eliminate it and just run a shorter belt. Thats what I did.

 

Yes, I ordered the delete pulley. I already had a new replacement belt and just prefer the the asthetics of having a pulley there.

Actually, as I look at it the problem I may have is getting the upper radiator hose to go from the rad to the housing. The hose that was there looked like it was two diff hoses spliced together. Ill probably just have to get a universal and bend it accordingly.

I dry fitted the CS144 with the valve covers on and theres enough clearance for everything. When I mocked it up w/o the covers on I wasnt sure it would clear....

Injectors and remaining misc. engine parts are ordered, final pieces for my rear suspension swap are in...I hope to get this pig on the road in a week or so...

 

There are several things you could do to try to correct the hose, On rockauto.com you can look up the inlet of the radiator size for your blazer. A thermostat housing for The application is for a 64-78 Chevy truck with a 327ci engine will also work on your tpi. It is under carquest w1050 or four seasons 84852. Im not sure if street and performance still make there tpi for hot rod thermostat housings like the one I have here but they may work to clean things up. The tpi thermostat hosing is a odd size for a sbc it is 1 1/4 od. A acdelco 26111X may work with what you have right now just might need to notch out the fan shroud.

 

Once again great info. I sourced the 86852 at a local O'Reilly's already. Ill get on that when the new injectors arrive. Amazon was the best deal for the pulley, $45 and for $10 it will be delived Monday...

Just finished up my read suspension mod, need to bolt up my tank...then on to the engine:

 

wow, I'm finding all kinds of ways to spend your money lol, Nice to see you cleaning up from someones swap I cant recall the size of the hole in the top of the thermostat housing but it is npt ans a allen head pipe fitting wouldnt look to bad to block it.

 

Found some good reading material:

 

Todays progress:
New belt and idler pulley to replace smog pump. I had the option of using a smaller belt and bypassing the smog pump, but already had the belt and prefer the look of having the pulley.

Pulley v somg pump:

Hole to fill:

Hole filled:





With the new 140A alt installed as well:

The CS144 is huge compared to the old CS130. Its a tight fit, but its on and there is still some room. My fuel lines need to be routed underneath the alt:





Waiting on new injectors, O-ring kit for fuel rail and fuel pressure diaphram then I can beging to reassemble this thing.

 

 

Thanks man, been a work in progress doing both the engine and rear suspension.

I appreciate all the help and Im sure more will be needed as I finnish up and with tuning/prom.

 

Edited pic, just in case there are any questions....

 

Got access to the ECM:



Only identifiers that were immediately visable:



Check engine light in the truck hasnt worked since day one. Now I think I know why..... its not in the dash... I believe this is how its set up and it was tucked up under the dash:



Along with this bullshit mess:

 

Oh man thats a ton of extra wiring looks like a old alarm. The ecm is mounted properly with mounts off a cavalier or 3.1 or 2.8L fwd car. The check engine light is real easy to wire up you can use that orange light you have in your pic or use the stock check engine light since this was probably a ccc or tbi at one time. Power goes from one side of the lamp and the other lead goes to the ecm(the yellow or green plug of the ecm) pin e7 of the ecm a brown/white wire this is the ground for the light the ecm controls it. There is also a on the same connector F10 a blue wire this should goto a box that will send a hz signal to the ecm this can be tossed if you were wanting me to delete the vats in the programing.

 

Alarm and "added" power door locks, neither of which worked, some old speaker wire too.