Yeah, after adjusting the ign switch, its still the same.

i know right where that plug is. ill try that.

Thanks so much for helping.

 

I am still really wondering about the weird behavior around the IGN switch. You say that you let the key back so that the starter stops running, but not all the way to run, and the engine keeps running. If the starter isn't turning, the switch can't be in START position, and yet the engine runs with switch held there, and not in run. The IGN1 circuit is a large pink wire from the IGN switch. It is the one circuit that gets power in both START and RUN positions. If this circuit is losing power in RUN, that would explain your trouble and it would point to a defective IGN switch, or a continuing issue with adjustment of the switch.

 

To OP, the Ign Switch and Key Switch are 2 different things.

 

What do you mean by key switch? You mean the ign cylinder/key tumbler?

i know the ign switch is on the column with a rod connected to it that leads up to a gear that rotates and is connected to the ign cylinder or key.

Not sure what you mean by key switch??

 

How do i best test the pink ign wire for loss in start to run? at the ign switch some how? at the grey plug on the ign coil?

The ign switch is new. dont think it would do the same thing as the old one right away.

 

You test it using a DVOM on volts function. Connect the leads, using either back probes that insert into the back of the connector terminal, or a good piercing probe like the Fluke brand that tightens around the wire and makes solid contact through a tiny pierce in the insulation. Then place the meter on the cowl where you can see it while you work the switch.

Start your test at the load end of the circuit, which is the coil. Then, if you see a drop from START to RUN, test at the switch. The switch is more difficult to get to but that almost has to be where the trouble is. Otherwise, you have something mis-connected so that it is only getting power with the key in START.

 

I tried to start it with the EST bypass plug unplugged. but i couldnt get it to run. i plugged it back in and still couldnt get it started.

so now i cant get it running. im having trouble putting the steering column back together. the spring plate, that covers all of the electronics, needs to be compressed with a tool. When putting it back on, it was extremely tough to get it to compress back far enough to put the lock ring on. the tool was a cheap rental from the pits of china, so it was bending from the pressure, then the wings on the bolt to tighten it snapped off. I double check everything and it all is correct and this plate is in the right orientation when being pressed on. it was a son of a bitch but i finally got it in, but the plate got bent from the pressure. I gotta pull it apart and figure it out and get a new pressure plate.

Thats why i havent updated much, problems with the steering wheel section. Womp!!

Ill fix this, adjust the ign switch/get the van running again, and try the est plug thing again. Ill try to keep you informed.

Feel free to shoot some more suggestions to me, ill try em all. thanks!!

 

When reassembling the column, you have to be sure that the bearings are going together correctly. The tension spring(coil spring that goes under the plastic horn commutator, which goes under the steering lock plate) only compresses so far. That's the tension your pressing against with the compressor tool. The tool isn't very sturdy intentionally. The idea is that the tool will buckle before you really damage anything. You need to be sure that the bearing is all aligned and the little cone shaped piece that the tension spring presses against sits inside the inner bearing race. It's common that the little cone shaped piece will get off center and you will play hell getting the assembly together this way. Tilt columns are the worst.

As far as the no start goes, you need to verify spark from the coil since this happened with the EST unplugged. You may end up with this whole thing being an ICM issue.

 

I getcha homie. im pretty sure that the bearings arent seated properly. ill take care of that.

I think youre correct bout the icm, or even another another ignition source problem. im convinced its in the ignition system/circuit. i just replaced everything, but who knows with remanufactured parts from AutoBone.

Lets get this damn thing RUNNING!!

 

I have a question about my steering column going back together.

when i took it apart again, there was a few loose ball bearings not in the housing. i put them back in there spots and centered the bearing around the shaft. pushed it in the recess a little to get it snug.

But, there doesnt seem to be anything to press against the bearing to hold it in place after i put the spring and hat over the shaft. theres nothing forcing that bearing in, so if i rotate the shaft, all the bearings pop out.







See what i mean? It seems like there should be something there, but i dont have any more parts...

Ideas?

 

I think the hats upside down when im installing the spring. it didnt seem like it went the other way, but apparently im just dumb. ill try it.

edit: and i think the part that i thought was missing, i think i put it behind the bearing...oops. im gonna go fix this after a quick rip ;-)

 

yeah, exactly what i posted above happened. shoulda investigate how the parts went in before i just assume. my bad.

now its onto the real problem, ignition voltage drop or something. i wish i had another dizzy to swap out to make sure that the icm and pickup coil are actually functioning properly.

What type of voltage testing should i do now to verify that all is good with the fat pink wire and any other test to try out?

Im just gonna call my local chevy mobile mechanic. a fresh set of eyes would be nice. plus he has all the specialty tools, so theres no dicking around.

 

Yep. The "hat" as you call it, is upside down. The cone shaped side goes toward the spring and the fingers on the other end need to go inside the inner race of the bearing.

There aren't really any special tools for diagnosing your van's issue. Hopefully the mobile mechanic knows something about electrical diagnosis because that's what you need.

The voltage tests that I've already explained are fairly basic stuff. Just connect to the pink wire at the coil and watch for a drop in voltage when the key is turned back from "START" to "RUN". To me it's basic stuff, but then I do this very type of testing all day everyday professionally so I guess my perspective is different. One special tool that might be useful for this situation would be a scan tool with data stream so that you can see if ECM voltage is dropping off, but then you can also test for that with the same test you would use at the coil.

 

Just curious how its going if it was a ignition power issue ?

 

The first video he posted sounded like a fried ignition control module or the distributor being waaaaay off from where its supposed to be. He said in the video "it starts right up but doesnt idle". It never started in that video, it only cranked over.

Has anyone tried to rotate the engine to Top Dead Center and pulled the distributor cap to see if the rotor is pointed to cylinder number 1 ?

 

been working on other ppls vehicles. my gfs tranny is going so were in the process of getting her a new car. been broke so been doing body work and brakes and suspension on other vehicles.

the car does start and run, just not without holding the key. i think its gonna be something bad on dizzy or the coil.

 

Keep us posted, wish I had some spare ignition parts to send you to try.

 

Thanks Homie,
I gotta try to find a used dizzy that is known to work. If it is that pink wire losing power, ill try to jump it. not sure if it has anything to do with the est brown plug for timing. ill get to it soon.

Picking up a new car for my gf tomorrow!! woot woot.

 

Are you done borrowing my ecm dean ? I will sell it to you if you like. I have sent you several pms. If you need my address let me know !

 

Nothing like getting screwed over trying to help out !

 

Hello ?