O2 between 850 and 1100 mv
BLM 128
MAF 15 to 17 grams
MAF Raw Input 15 to 17
Injector Base Pulse width 2.75 to 3.01 msec
Time between Ref Pulse 15500 to 16500 uSec
IAC Motor Position 160 Steps
Coolant Temp 109F (warming up)
SA Rel to TDC 13 to 14 deg
SA Rel to Ref Pulse 7.33 to 8.44 deg

This is figures taken at cold start up.

 

Need figures once ECM goes into closed loop ie, warmed up

 

OK...My biggest problem right now is start-up till it goes CL....I am thinking of just switching to open loop all the time. I read it is better for performance but not MPG's..lol

 

You don't state what combo you are trying to tune ( cam , etc ) and whether your tune has been modified to suit.
While warming up in open loop you are running off fixed settings; the ECM won't adjust fueling until it goes CL and reads the O2

 

looks like your running real rich you can be in cl bye 104F but you are not listing if your are getting any cross counts and the mask you are using.

 

383, Stealthram, mild roller CompCam, Procomp 200 Alum heads, Currie 9" w/ 4:11 gear, 700r4, no Smog stuff, MAF gutted, air lids removed, 24lb injectors, fuel pressure @ 45psi WOT 39 idle.


OK...I found a stock 89 5.7 APYN bin today and will list datalog info soon. I only had a few minutes to try it on a lunch break but it didnt stall out or seem to rich which is a plus. It wasnt a happy motor but better motor than before. I know I will have to make some adjustments so I will be leaning on you guys to save me from going the wrong direction on my tune.

Couple of questions though...
What does changing the size of the fuel inj in the bin really do? I dont see where anything else is affected when that constant is changed.
What do you think is the best way to disable the EGR since its history.

 

The are a few things that will affect injector pw, pw vs battery voltage just to start with. The best way to disable the egr is uncheck ether 32 flag and max the mat temp for the egr enable.

 

Thank you for the feed back. I will disable the EGR. I did notice that the volts to my fuel pump were only between 6 and 7 volts? Does sound right. I figured it would be at least 12v

 

Take out the fuel pump relay and look for corrosion on the terminals. Are you getting a code 54 ?

 

no codes...that could be it. The car has sat awhile before I started restoring it.

Today I disable the EGR, changed it to 24lb inj in the bin, increased the idle value...it idled a little better which is encouraging. I read one of your post about SA which was a great help and you stated how some tuners will disable the PE to make tuning easier. How would I go about doing that and is it a good call for a newbie tuner to do? Also seen where some guys are prefering to run in OL all the time?

 

$6e definition can be touchy with the connection. To making tuning easier you might want to buy a few things if you don't have them already. A wide band oxygrn sensor and gauge or recorder and or emulator. I have soldered in some dips for other members here so you wont need to use a g1 moates adapter. you should work on cold start and warm open loop idle and tune from there. There is a decent wright up in the diy prom section posted a few weeks ago.

 

you can pm me I will be more than happy to walk you through some steps and look at your datalogs.

 

That would be awesome man...looks like I will be able to spend a good amount of my Saturday tuning the car... I have a Moates Zip socket installed, a burn 2 burner and use the Tunerpro V5 to tune and datalog. I use the data cable offered by Moates to hook up my ALDL to my laptop.

 

just a heads up the zif is ok to use while you are tuning but over time it may become a issue. the contacts become problematic and if contact fails you will go into limp home mode. One think to consider would be dynamic efi ebl P4 and convert to map. If you ad the cost of a emulator and your time dataloging and retuning the ebl will help you refine your air fuel ratio with its ve learn.

 

OK...I attached a datalog from this morning of a cold start situation. I recorded it using the Tunerpro when you can take a look and tell me what you see. I had to keep my foot on the throttle just a tad to keep it running. I may need to adjust the throttle body idle screw out a little since it is completely screwed out or it may be in the bin?

 

The glitching is the fun part of a 165 ecm lol, You should restart and set the minimum idle speed when the engine is warmed up and the iac commanded in then readjust the tps. The target idle rpm cant be reached. The next warmup cycle if its surging start slowly adding to the startup enrichment vs coolant.

 

you should double check the voltage at the ecm B2


the data stream could be setup incorectly for this reading of the fuel pump voltage.

 

I tried to PM this file to you but it wouldn't let me. Anyway here are several datalogs. I reset IAC and TPS voltage is .50 closed and 4.35 WOT. You can just PM me your thoughts and suggestions. I appreciate the help man.

 

sorry, Having a busy day. I will look at them and send you a pm later on today

 

I have installed the Heated o2. Here is the new data log. BLM still seems frozen but the o2 seems to be working better. Also cars never goes into to closed loop?