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To anyone who has actually done this...I have read on here people who have done this and noticed a difference I am wondering how long your filters last after doing this? And if it affects the driveability in rainy wet weather? Seems to me your filter would get wet. I am thinking about instead of cutting entire bottom off, cutting slits in the bottom for more air?
I've removed the baffles and cut little windows out of the air box .. didn't notice much difference but then again it probably is hard to notice if it makes a difference.
I have done this mod to my car. I gutted the factory air boxes so that there isnothing beneath my K&N air filters. I also installed the hawks ram airboxes. There is a noticeable difference even on a stock car at all rpm ranges.
I've ported my plenum, SLP intake runners and edlebrock base to match. I'vealso got a 52mm throttle body as well. I'm still running the factory L98 headsand cam. I've also got aftermarket exhaust from the headers on back.
Those gutted air box mods made a big difference when I got around to upgradingmy intake. My car pulls hard now to 5,500rpm and doesn’t loose a lot of steamafter 4,500 like it did with the stock set up. Also from idle to 3,500rpm thereis a big gain in torque as well.
Originally Posted by VincentZ28
Cut the whole bottom out. You will see a noticeable difference. Also install K&N filters.
I'm considering this mod as well, if the purpose of the baffles is noise reduction what kind of effect does removing them have on the noise? also does anyone know where I can find more info on the aluminum ram air boxes and removing the baffles? I tried searching for it but I never have much luck with the TGO search.
The baffles are there for noise reduction and keeping water away from the MAF. The intake noise after the baffles is removed is more noticible if you are running a stock exhaust system. The stock exhaust on these cars is very quiet and it's easier to notice intake changes then if your running an aftermarket system. It's not a big change in the sound but you can hear more air getting sucked in.
I haven't had any problem with water or any other road contaminents getting sucked in to the intake.
I'm considering this mod as well, if the purpose of the baffles is noise reduction what kind of effect does removing them have on the noise? also does anyone know where I can find more info on the aluminum ram air boxes and removing the baffles? I tried searching for it but I never have much luck with the TGO search.
I removed the baffles and noticed a nice difference. The filters have no adverse effect as far as getting wet or dirty.
I later installed ram air using AC ducting and noticed a bigger difference in performance. There is still no adverse effect to the filters.
White91rs here are some pics, they are by far not the greatest, but it gives you a solid idea.
Cut on right, stock on left.
Also I used AC ducting, which cost me bout $15. To me it was a better idea than spending 100 plus shipping for the hawks boxes.
I first cut out the baffles, then later I modified my air filter lid into a high flow unit following the thread titled "high flow air lid". I used plastic and two part cement that I bought from a local plastics company and a pipe coupler from a local irrigation supplier. The job took some time and work but I was able to add 5/8" of height in the thinnest area where the lid crosses over the radiator support. My hood still closes just fine. Then, I made ram air boxes from aluminum sheet from the hardware store. They turned out really well. My engine is extensively modified and I noticed the difference immediately.
On a side note, the sound you now hear from the ram air boxes is air being drawn through the throttle body. People ask my if I'm running a blower.
Don't forget to mount a couple PC cooling fans for the added RAMJET effect at low speeds and to cool that incoming air. That way you can have Cold Air Intake and RAM AIR IV!!! Lose another 5/10ths with this one simple mod.
Don't forget to mount a couple PC cooling fans for the added RAMJET effect at low speeds and to cool that incoming air. That way you can have Cold Air Intake and RAM AIR IV!!! Lose another 5/10ths with this one simple mod.
Joking aside, biggest bang for your no-buck is opening up your airboxes and bumping initial timing on a TPI.
Joking aside, biggest bang for your no-buck is opening up your airboxes and bumping initial timing on a TPI.
Prove it. Let's see someone take an otherwise stock TPI car to the track and run several times back to back with a stock and an open air box, and several alternating runs wiith the timing stock and advanced, then post the numbers. Because to date, I've yet to see any actual quantifiable measurements to show the quantity of bang for the no buck.
Prove it. Let's see someone take an otherwise stock TPI car to the track and run several times back to back with a stock and an open air box, and several alternating runs wiith the timing stock and advanced, then post the numbers. Because to date, I've yet to see any actual quantifiable measurements to show the quantity of bang for the no buck.
Well, I'm certainly not going to prove it for you!
But, there were plenty of old magazine articles that proved it at the track back when the cars were new. Didn't we just have someone post an '87 350 Formula, driven by DeFeo, which did just that?
Prove it. Let's see someone take an otherwise stock TPI car to the track and run several times back to back with a stock and an open air box, and several alternating runs wiith the timing stock and advanced, then post the numbers. Because to date, I've yet to see any actual quantifiable measurements to show the quantity of bang for the no buck.
i dyno’d stock arap bin vs aujl on my mild L98 withstock tpi and saw no difference in peak hp despite the big difference in timing between the two. However it was back to back pulls and might be heat soaked, so hard to say. However it seemed snappier at part throttle but def too much timing with arap imo and needs 93 oct.
stock fbody L98 timing is pretty conservative so small gains in overall curve power can be there. Mainly drivability feel
Well, maximum airflow isn’t difficult to calculate...assuming 100% volumetric efficiency, which isn’t likely, a 350 cubic inch engine can use as much as 564 cubic feet of air per minute at 7,000 RPM.
Looking at my OEM setup for TPI, I have serious doubts that the air cleaner ducting can’t handle this amount of flow, and more. I’d say if there’s any real restriction to airflow on my ‘88, it would be at the MAF.
I don’t doubt it sounds better, but significant gains in power do seem pretty unlikely.
Well, maximum airflow isn’t difficult to calculate...assuming 100% volumetric efficiency, which isn’t likely, a 350 cubic inch engine can use as much as 564 cubic feet of air per minute at 7,000 RPM.
Looking at my OEM setup for TPI, I have serious doubts that the air cleaner ducting can’t handle this amount of flow, and more. I’d say if there’s any real restriction to airflow on my ‘88, it would be at the MAF.
I don’t doubt it sounds better, but significant gains in power do seem pretty unlikely.
What do you consider "significant"?
Looking at one mod, and seeing tiny gains, and calling it 'a waste of time' because of that...... You might just as well not do anything to your car at all. The engine is, after all, a SYSTEM, and improvements in one part, are complimented by improvements in other parts. Everything works together. Even if you only see a half-horsepower gain, it is STILL a Gain. Do a bunch of those, and you start getting into 'significant' territory. Not to mention, all those little improvements will STILL help when you do MAJOR improvements as well. (heads, cam, intake, etc.)
Looking at one mod, and seeing tiny gains, and calling it 'a waste of time' because of that...... You might just as well not do anything to your car at all. The engine is, after all, a SYSTEM, and improvements in one part, are complimented by improvements in other parts. Everything works together. Even if you only see a half-horsepower gain, it is STILL a Gain. Do a bunch of those, and you start getting into 'significant' territory. Not to mention, all those little improvements will STILL help when you do MAJOR improvements as well. (heads, cam, intake, etc.)
Exactly. Pennies and nickels turn into quarters.....
Gutted maf on a mild heads cam 270’s whp tpi build was worth nothing. Surprisingly it did read a few g/s more airflow at wot but did not translate to more power. Did not gut filter boxes tho
3.5” maf and cold air intake did nothing at the track vs gutted tpi air box with homemade ram air using a gutted stock maf on a hot 383 tht went 11.40’s at 119 mph
stock tpi air system is pretty good. I would def do ram air ducting. It works on ls1 cars and seems to work on tpi motors as well
I did a lot of the "tricks" back in the day (early to mid 90s) . Even on the birds a makeshift RA system was worth a couple tenths at the track and it was repeatable. Put it on- car picked up, take off -car slowed.
On the Dyno you won't see a difference because the RA system needs the pressurized air at speed to make the power. Like a mini supercharger.
With my bird, Bumping the timing, RA, 160 t-stat/fan switch and fuel PSI (with knock sensor unplugged gained me ET and MPH. (with factory chip)
It's funny that this thread was brought back - I'm in the process of doing this exact mod! Although in my case, I'm using the gutted TPI intake and Y piece to bring air to a carb hat (similar to what this person has done; that's not my car). Planning on fabbing my own ram air boxes as well, since I've already pulled out my fog lights.
I figure it has to be better than pulling hot engine air into a top-mounted circular air cleaner, right?
Don't forget to mount a couple PC cooling fans for the added RAMJET effect at low speeds and to cool that incoming air. That way you can have Cold Air Intake and RAM AIR IV!!! Lose another 5/10ths with this one simple mod. 
