As part of my rebuild, I have removed all emissions and have also removed the chorcoal canister.

What to do with the line? Can it be eliminated all together and capped at the tank?

Does it need to remain as a vent, and if so, can I just add a breather filter to it near the tank?


Thanks!

 

Have the same question! subscribed for an answer.

 

I believe it needs to remain as a vent. I just got a differential breather and put that on the end of the line near where the charcoal canister used to be.

 

I attached a 24" piece of rubber hose and secured it so that the fumes vent behind and below the headlamp housing. Need it open to vent the tank.

 

so there is no harmful effects of getting rid of the charcoal canister... I have this hooked up but want to get rid of it....

 

mine is blocked off and I us a vented gas cap

 

Is the little white fuel filter looking item above the rear end attached to the tank on one side, a vent for the tank?

 

It is a vent but a one way vent that allows air to enter the tank and not create a vacuum as fuel is used,
The charcoal canister and the hole fuel system needs to have a slight pressure in the tank, the way the system is set up it allows fuel vapors and pressure to be released back into the engine to be combusted, To much pressure in the fuel tank or to little pressure will cause the fuel pump to go bad prematurely, This is how the complete fuel system was designed so fuel vapors would not escape into the atmosphere, But I'm sure you know this as most people do.
Now my question is why you want to do this? If it is to clean up your engine bay I would suggest hiding it under the plate it sits on right now. There is plenty of room and there are some on this site that have already done this, And there is a thread showing how it was done, But I can't find it right now.

 

Here is a post that might answer your question?
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...-pressure.html

 

My canister was removed years ago.

I don't think you can buy replacement units.

I would like to avoid replacing it, due to cost, avalibility, and I do like the cleaner appearence without it.

The link did not seem to definitive, it appears sone have luck capping it and adding a vented gas cap, while others just put a filter on it.

I would be willing to bet a large portion of the cars here do not have thr canisters still. Would be interested in hearing what many have done when removing them.

 

I was faced with the same situation when I bought my T/A. The charcoal canister had bean removed, And even though my car does not get emission test, all the controls for it must be there or it wont pass, I found a few on ebay but didn't like there price, I found one in the salvage yard for $10. with all vacuum lines. Maybe you could check out the parts for sale on this forum as there a re a few people parting out whole cars.
If you want to go without the canister you could always hook up the vent line up to the TB, but this may put a vacuum in the tank, Now there is a valve that is on top of the canister that is removable that is controlled by vacuum Have the vent from the tank plugged into that, A vacuum line from the intake to control when it opens and the line out to the TB, this way you have a clean appearance with out the charcoal canister and the fuel vapors from the tank still being burnt off by the engine and saving your fuel pump

 

If the tank needs slight pressure, how can that vapor line be open or used for a vent ? Will that not allow the tank to have any pressure at all by allowing any pressure to escape?

I also deleted my entire vapor line all the way to the tank.. I have been told to plug that rubber line from the tank and also been told to keep it open. So I put a filter on the end of the hose and will try it like that first, If that don't work well I guess I will plug it. I have yet to fire the new motor but should have an answer in a week or two when I fire it for the first time.

 

It is normal for the gas tank to have 2psi positive pressure. This makes the pump work "easier". The pressure actually primes the pump. The pressure is created by the return flow fro the regulator. There is a check valve in the vent line just before the charcoal cannister that opens when the pressure exceeds 2 psi, allowing the fumes to flow to the cannister. The cannister absorbs these fumes, and then releases them back to be burned when the ECM opens the solenoid on the top of the cannister.

For info, my vent line was pinched, not allowing the flow to happen. Pressure would build in the tank to the point that it would puke gas out the filler neck, even with the cap on. If you took the cap off, you could feel pressure exiting the tank for many seconds. I believe that the tank could easily expand ( and maybe even burst a seam) if the pressure gets great enough. I have seen the opposite, when on a carb'd system the vacuum in the tank was large enough to collapse the tank.

Most vented caps "vent" pressure or vacuum only when opened slightly. I believe because of EPA rules it is now illegal to make a cap that actually vents while installed ( at least for our age of vehicles)

 

Did you come up with a solution?

 

My car is still in pieces.

My plan is to add a vent filter like the factory one.

 

Now this is just for TPI cars. So leave he vent valve installed on the line up front and on the other end use a longer hose and route it down to the wheel well by the tire so it vents outside if there is any vapor. Or if you removed the entire vapor line, install the pressure vent valve back near the tank and run the dump hose to the rear of the vehicle so vapors don't build under the vehicle. That way you still have what GM designed with 2 psi constant tank pressure and even though it is not emissions legal, the vehicle will work as designed and will not risk blowing a fuel tank or premature wear to the fuel pump.

 

I still have mine in place and working, I hate the raw fuel smell.. Makes me think I have a fuel leak.

 

IDK if you've found a solution yet but I did what another member here did. I took that purge valve and some of the rubber line and attached it right after the fuel tank. Zip tied it up right where the hard line meets the flex line on the rear brakes.

That way you still have the purge valve to regulate 2 psi, it doesn't puke fumes when the car is sitting because there's no pressure building, and it's out of the way.

 

I drove my Camaro for 10 years with the charcoal canister removed, with just a piece of fabric over the end of the hard line in the engine compartment. I never once got a fuel smell, and never had fuel problems of any kind. Now that the motor is in my GTA, I'm going to take a similar approach and just use a diff breather after the 2psi valve.

 

My canister has been removed and the line capped off. I am running a standard non vented cap as well. It's been this way for over a year on a daily driver with no issues.

 

Any body looking for a canister ?? I might have mine after my ls swap lying around the garage