OneCrazy87IrocZ

Ok guys here's what i have going on. currently not wanting 2 rip apart my rear end 2 get the same result so ide like 2 test everything out 2 the pump first.... so its 100% sure the pump........I wanna use every method besides the shitty pump replacement....................

on my 1987 irocz i have the in line fuel pump fuse 20A on the passengers fender.... tested 12v fuse is good... also checked the solid state fuse at the connectors off the battery all passing 12v....

key turned on...... no pump sound..... 0 pressure at rail.... relay clicks as it should after 3 seconds or less ..(IM ASSUMIGN THIS MEANS MY LOW VOLTAGE SIDE IS FINE)...... I replaced each relay with a new one each 1 at a time and determined none of them were bad..........

i also did the 12v battery jump to the lower left pin connecter on the diagnostic connecter on the dash next 2 the center console in the car... relays clicked just fine... still no fuel pump.....

my next ? is what wires can i jump 2 directly send power 2 the fuel pump not threw any relays ill post any pictures you guys need... is their any way 2 get to the power wire of the fuel pump without dropping the tank? via wheel well or frame rail... i haven't been under it yet.!

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Putting power to the aldl pin g will power the pump directly.Or jumping the ops orange to grey wire. The gray wire from the relay goes through c100 down the driver side and out through a body connecter bye the rear seat.

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/newtech/tun...elcircuit.html

OneCrazy87IrocZ

so.. totally not a wiz at this dumb this down for me a bit... on the fire wall i have 3 or 4 relays i think... what one is the one i need 2 disconnect and jump???? or is the aldl connector the under the dash connector? ill take pics of w.e it is and if you can tell me where im looking 2 jump that would be great. tottaly a motor guy and learning the schematics./

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

The aldl is under the dash on the drivers side. The ops may be a 2 or 3 wire sensor behind the distributor.

OneCrazy87IrocZ

also you posted that link.... IT SAYS THEIR is a FIGURE A1.... picture that it says where 2 find the location of the fuel pump test connector????....... its says this at the last sentence of the code 54 description.

OneCrazy87IrocZ

ok what pin is G... is it the one i already put power 2.... lower left?

OneCrazy87IrocZ

oil pressure guage wont be bad... i don't have a fuel prime when the key comes on.. or do you mean disconnect the connector and apply 12V 2 the switch not the guage? will that send 12v directly 2 the pump???? or is their always 12v present at the oil pressure switch and just unhook it nd jump them together?

OneCrazy87IrocZ

so i looked behind the distributor and i only have 1 wire on the thing behind the distributor... im guessing that is the oil pressure guage...... are you talking about the switch located on the bottom of the block on the back of the motor before the tranny?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

If your oil pressure switch isn't in the block next to the distributor it will be in the block above the oil filter.



I posted the link so you can see the schematic, if you can color in a color book in between the lines you can read a schematic.

you can use a test light or vom and see if you have power on the grey wire at the relay for two seconds when the key is turned on. If you do the issue would be the pump ground or voltage loss between c100 and the fuel pump weather proof connecter.

To send constant power to the pump wire jump the ops orange to grey wire. The quickest way to see if its the pump ground if unplug the connecter at the tank and check for power and the ground. The purpose of the ops is to power the pump when you crank the engine the ops contacts will connect at 4 psi or higher of oil pressure sending power to the pump.

Since you stated you have a single wire sender for the gauge your ops will look like this.