It's kind of a long story but my basic question is in the title.

I bought a 1989 Formula 350 T Top car (red) that had been worked on years ago by some guy. Basically he blew the motor up, bored it .030 over and put a bunch of parts on it. However he was never able to get it to run right (so he says), it always ran rich. I think it has sat since 2003. All the receipts I have are dated 2002. The car is RUST free (Georgia it's whole life), DENT free and has parts worth more than I paid for it. I just hate to part it out. Anyway.

I towed it home, put a battery in it, checked the oil and coolant, and cranked it over. No go. Shot a bit of ether in it and it kicked over for maybe 5 seconds. However I could not hear the fuel pump kick on. So it has a new fuel tank (old one was eaten from the inside from 10 year old gas), new fuel pump, new adjustable regulator (the old one had the vacuum nipple broken off and siliconed back on (failed)) and new pressure gauge. It builds and seems to hold 40psi at the fuel rail. Still no start, not even a hint of FIRE. The injectors ohm to 14.6 to 14.8 on all of them. The noid light flashes when connected to the harness (although it doesn't seem all that bright to me). So there is my question, IF the VATS was shutting off the injector pulse would the noid light flash at all?

I think my next step is to try and measure the voltage at the harness. What's the best way to do that? Just disconnect it and put a voltmeter on it while someone cranks the engine?

Then I am going to verify cylinder #1 at TDC and check the distributor/cap wiring. I did pull plug #1 and it gets good spark, I put a timing light on all the other wires so I know they get power since they trip the light.

Previous owner stated it ran but ran way rich. I did remove the Hypertech chip and re-installed the stock chip if that matters? Once I get it running I plan to get it dyno tuned and a custom chip burned anyway.

355 cid
BBK 58mm throttle body
AFR aluminum heads (I don't have the receipt and I can't see any numbers with the thing all assembled)
Accel 150824 injectors
Accel 35362 ICM
Comp cam 1417-16 roller rockers
MSD 8226 blaster coil
Crane CompuCam 2032

B&M 70419 Holeshot converter
B&M 70239 shift kit
sub frame connectors
Lakewood 21700 traction bars
It is 3.23 posi (I saw the tags while under the car)

new radiator
new alternator
new water pump
Summit engine rebuild kit (pistons, bearings, oil pump etc.)
new carpet & seals

Thank you for your help in advance. Once I get it running I will take some pictures and video.

 

READ
https://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

If the ECM does not get the correct fuel enable signal from the VATS module it will not allow the injectors to pulse so you should have no noid light flash.

FWIW ,
If VATS is working correctly, the engine should not even be cranking over ( unless a PO has bypassed the starter relay ).

 

vetteoz, Thanks. I had skimmed that before. I also read some articles here that stated the engine could crank while the injector pulse was off. But since mine does rotate and the noid light does, "light" (I think it's a little weak though). It's likely not the VATS. So if I have gas and spark it must be the timing.

 

I ask a simple yes/no question and I get crickets ? (except for vetteoz, thanks)

I disconnected the plug to the injector, attached a meter to it and cranked the engine. The volts are roughly 0.33 volts at the injector plug. It pulses the noid light but I am not sure it fires the injector. HELP ?

----EDIT-----
I put 12 volts to the injectors and I believe I hear them click. I tried cranking the car after I did it and it fired on 1 or 2 cylinders. My guess is that it was because I manually operated the injectors letting a little fuel into the cylinder. So I am 99% percent convinced it is the voltage from the harness that is the issue. It needs to be WELL above 0.33v (12v ?) that I currently get to make the noid light, light.

So the question is what would cause the injector harness NOT to produce 12volts, allow the engine to crank and allow the fuel pump to make 40psi. The injectors all ohm at 14.8-14.9.

 

The pink/blk wires on each injector bank goto your fuse box. Make sure you check bank 2 or unplug all the injectors on bank 1 and check for power on the pink/blk wire. You will have atleast 12v or battery surface voltage. The fact that the noid light atleast blinked your vats is working. The injector driver will shut down if one or more injector coils are shorted out so its odd that at 14.5 ohms the not pulsing. The ecm/injector ground through the ecm is behind the passengers side cylinder head make sure that is clean and secure as well. I have seen one low injector shut off the injector driver and stop pulse. The ecm needs to get a icm distributor reference pulse on the purple /white wire on the icm to pin B5 of the ecm. make sure those connections are good and that you have continuity in that wire. If your volt ohm meter has a hz setting you can double check the vats signal to the ecm on pin b6 it will show 2.5v or a hertz signal of 30hz at 50-60% .

 

I looked at the ground wire behind the passenger cylinder and it looks good (although it's hard to get to). It goes from the firewall to a transmission/engine bolt. I may decide to add another.

Do I check the B5 where the wire goes into the connecter at the ECM inside the passenger kick panel? For the VATS you mean A6 (pnk/blk)? I don't see a B6 on my wire diagram.

With all the injectors unplugged on bank 1 (blk/pnk) do I measure the 12volts at the fuse box? With the engine cranking?

 

Adding second ground cant hurt a thing. B6 is the pin number on the computer you can back probe the connecter with a paper clip and turn your key on. The volts will be 2.5 if its getting a signal from the passkey module (vats) or will show a hz signal so the computer will enable the injectors. With all the injector unplugged on other bank of the engine you will have 12v. with the resistance of the injectors depending on where you are testing the voltage drops. You can do this with the key on. The injectors do not get a pulse signal until 400 rpm and the ecm pulses the ground of the ecm.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...8&d=1331257304

 

I'm sorry for not fully reading your post, I missed the fact that the car has sat for 10years.
If you get the noid to blink at all wich it sounds good. it sounds like the injectors are gummed up from varnished fuel. instead of having them cleaned you might want to check or replace your fuel pressure regulator diaphragm , replece the fuel rail crossover o-rings and install a set of Bosch 3s 22#hr injectors.Use the promo Tuned to save 10%. You might want to contact them user southbay08 ask there thoughts
http://m.southbayfuelinjectors.com/p...7&product=1502

 

With each of the banks of injectors unplugged I get 12volts at the fuse box. I also confirmed that the continuity of the purple/white wire from the distributor to the ecm, it's good. The last thing I have to check is the b6 pin 2.5v or 30hz at 50% (once I figure out how to do it). I have already replaced the fuel regulator diaphragm, the ONLY thing I had not replaced was the injectors. Do you think 22# is enough for this combination of parts ?

 

300 fly wheel hp use the 22s, if you think its more go larger or increase the fuel pressure. You can even run 30s without a problem but you will need to tune for them.

http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/minj.htm

 

Any progress ?

 

I am waiting for new injectors, probably another week before I have the funds.

 

Got the injectors about a month ago but have not had time to install them. Well now the car RUNS. It won't idle but it will run at 2500 - 3000 rpm. Now to double check everything and to get it to idle. At least it lives now.

THANK YOU TO SOUTHBAY FUEL INJECTORS for the new injectors.

 

you are so very welcome!

 

It lives. I will likely start a new thread going over the entire project.

http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=dhg60&s=5#.UpLMNOIo52s

 

I had the same issue with mine, same workers done and touched every single wife on the harness, cuts here and there tape all over because of the pulse issue ,

Last resort of over. 2k dollars, just for fun and the heck of it , put in another computer, it's started up perfectly,,,,
Just make sure that the numbers all match in the ECM, u can't just add any Iroc z ECM, all have to match up,
Don't get auto parts brand! Because they have a universal one only- gm offers several types, let me know also, I have tons of computers a available,

As I have all sorts of Iroc z and tip parts available for sale even hi flow matched injectors
Thanks and good luck with it

 

Only a load (resistance) can lower the supply voltage - corrosion, loose connections, and faulty switches are considered a load (bad resistance.) Nothing along the wiring but the load itself should create a voltage drop.
Voltage at any point along the wire connected to the injector should be the same as the battery voltage.
Once it goes through the injector the voltage should be zero, but you may get a small voltage while it's pulsing.

There's no problem with the wiring harness if you have 12v at the PNK/BLK wire of either bank with all the injectors disconnected.

FYI
If you supply 12v to the pnk/blk wire you'll not see a voltage reading on the grn/blk wire until the engine is cranking, running, or the GRN/BLK wire is shorted to ground.