Well I am sure a very loose plenum caused my surge at idle. I pulled the plenum bolts out with just a light break loose of the wrench and all 6 came out with my hand and the gaskets didnt even stick to either side basically fell off as I was unscrewing the bolts and plenum popped out with ease

the TB and Plenum are pitch black inside.

Can I remove the little bolts under the TB to clean out the passages?
the radiator bypass on the TB and intake are super gummed I will woire brush.

Also the EGR has 2 diaphragm? The vac lines brittle and cracked with lightest touch and the sensor wire is rusted. I am going to completely block off and tune out. preparing for future HSR

What is this second device (see pic)











Does it appear that my intake is leaking? I think ao I am seeing weeping on the floor all the time of fluid. I will replace my water neck and thermo while in there too also my injectors.

what neck should I get for a future HSR from auto zone?

 

The second thing is the IAC which is responsible for your idle speed. As far as the leak, it's almost impossible to tell by the pics. They have swivel necks that will work at almost any angle.

 

Be carefull, the little bolts on the bottom of the throttle body tend to be seized in and often break when you try to remove them. If they're sealing well now then I'd suggest leaving them alone. Also, if you want, you can bypass the coolant ran through the TB and go straight to the manifold, eliminating a potential leak. A lot of guys do that since their cars are in warm climates or only summer driven.

 

gross clean that up!

 

Well I pulled the runners and here are some observations of possible vac leaks.
The cold start bolt was not even tight hand loosen maybe leaking?
The upper plenum was not right and the gaskets fell out easy and stil look good. Wonder if never tightened upper plenum right
The lower runner had 1 gasket that looked like a tear they were tighter then te top but came off easy as well
The TB came off easy the bolts were little loose as well and the gasket cracked off in upper right corner wonder if that was leaking
The egr had 2 valves and all hoses broke easily once I moved them

I will mask off lower intake and paint it all alum clean up reinstall new injectors block off cold start and egr and polish uppers

I also removed the air and painted valve cover it should look good and the room with iat removed is great . I am debating do I remove the air tubes at the mani fold or plug off with jb weld.

Is it easy to unscrew the 4 ports from the manifold or they seized up?

 

Well putting it back together and painted cleaned and degunked everything. Polished up runners and plenum and painted with aluminum paint. Look great.

I just finished installing new thermostat, new plugs/ I will post pics of old stuff later but they were pretty bad.

I did all of the fuel system now (pump tank plugs flush relay) accept the FPR.

Here is my question: I tightens up the fuel rail and lines. I noticed the return fuel line by alternator the small o ring might have fallen off or was chewed up. I still tighten them down to check. All new injectors and rails went in tight and snug

so with key on I hear the fuel pump, the gauge jumps to 43psi but immediately settles in at 30-28psi and just holds there.

I do not see any leaks and after minuets it is not going down. The return line is holding as well. (is this ok?) With no leaks and no gas coming out of the vac side of the FPR could the FPR still be bad?

since it is holding steady at30psi maybe the spring is just worn, is this possible and typical symptom?