Code 36 help!
Code 36 help!
Hey guys, first I would like to introduce my self. Im new to the tpi world. I'm more aquatinted to the ls stuff and just picked up a 1986 iroc with a LB9. I've been having trouble with a code 36 which I understand to be maf burnoff relay? I recently replaced the maf and the two relays. I verified that the maf is going thru it's burnoff cycle. So the maf works and the relay works. So can any one tell me why I'm getting this code? What else do I need to look at. Thanks
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Code 36 help!
Does the car run okay?
Reason I ask is I *think* when the burn off occurs, the info is sent from the MAF sensor back to the ECM...if there was a poor connection on the plug or the ECM not allowing the proper voltage to be sensed on the burn off, I'd think incorrect MAF info would be sent as well.
Reason I ask is I *think* when the burn off occurs, the info is sent from the MAF sensor back to the ECM...if there was a poor connection on the plug or the ECM not allowing the proper voltage to be sensed on the burn off, I'd think incorrect MAF info would be sent as well.
Re: Code 36 help!
Yeah it runs great. Is it possible that the burnoff cycle is happening and the ecm just doesn't see it happening? Would this mean a bad ecm? Because the burnoff cycle is defiantly happening. The relay clicks the maf wire glows I checked and cleaned all the connections. Reset the ecm and after I shut it down and fire it back up the code is set. Also I changed the battery thinking maybe not enough voltage but that did not work either
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Re: Code 36 help!
I haven't touched the connectors at the ecm. I will give it a try I may change the ecm to. I don't know what else to do. Are the ecm's on these a common fail point? Is it something that will go bad eventually?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Code 36 help!
I wouldn't same common failure, and certainly not a part to replace "just in case".
I did look and code 36 in my manual, the only feedback the ECM sees is from the MAF sensor signal...which would lead me to think if the ECM is bad and not getting the BO signal, then it would also be getting improper MAF signal while running.
A scan tool can read the MAF signal, but unsure if they read the BO signal, I've never tried it.
I did look and code 36 in my manual, the only feedback the ECM sees is from the MAF sensor signal...which would lead me to think if the ECM is bad and not getting the BO signal, then it would also be getting improper MAF signal while running.
A scan tool can read the MAF signal, but unsure if they read the BO signal, I've never tried it.
Re: Code 36 help!
Thanks for your help man. I took a look at the ecm and it looks ok. I did notice though that it's a remanufactured ecm. I'm not sure what brand. I'm wondering if I should just change it out for a acdelco reman or a good used one.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,036
Likes: 5
From: knoxville tn
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700-R-4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 open
Re: Code 36 help!
Hey guys, first I would like to introduce my self. Im new to the tpi world. I'm more aquatinted to the ls stuff and just picked up a 1986 iroc with a LB9. I've been having trouble with a code 36 which I understand to be maf burnoff relay? I recently replaced the maf and the two relays. I verified that the maf is going thru it's burnoff cycle. So the maf works and the relay works. So can any one tell me why I'm getting this code? What else do I need to look at. Thanks
Re: Code 36 help!
these cars do not tolerate in expensive MAFs. such as what you get at auto zone ,advance ect. don't waste your time and money fooling with a re-man MAF and its somewhat tricky to get the correct relays. the parts counter may SAY its the one you need BUT.allow me to share the part numbers. burn off relay GM#10094701.... MAF power GM#10067925.... and the MAF itself, GM#14094712.... and don't forget that the fuel pump relay plays a part in all this. I get my parts from oreilleys BWD relays and a NEW MAF sensor made by a company called "rich porter" it was $450, but hey ,its the cost of playing with TPI. I hope I have helped you a lil
Re: Code 36 help!
Well I'm stumped! I replaced the connector for the maf and all three relay connectors (maf,burnoff,and fuel pump) reset the computer and still code 36. I don't know what else to do. If anyone has any suggestions please chime in!
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,036
Likes: 5
From: knoxville tn
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700-R-4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 open
Re: Code 36 help!
at this point I would go to oreilleys and get a re-man computer.#7165. and if that don't do it. these cars were released with a wonky PROM. (ask me how I know!) there is a guru on here named "tuned performance" he can provide you with a updated PROM that may well be the end of your problems. he helped me and countless others on this board. and he can help you as well. shoot him a PM. also a factory service manual is absolutely impossible to do without. I got mine from "helm inc". un plug your ECM and use a dvom meter to check your grounds. bad grounds are one of the biggest pains in the a$$ on these cars. but in the end ,man what a satisfying driver they are. good luck ,and let us know what is happening
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,036
Likes: 5
From: knoxville tn
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700-R-4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 open
Re: Code 36 help!
at this point I would go to oreilleys and get a re-man computer.#7165. and if that don't do it. these cars were released with a wonky PROM. (ask me how I know!) there is a guru on here named "tuned performance" he can provide you with a updated PROM that may well be the end of your problems. he helped me and countless others on this board. and he can help you as well. shoot him a PM. also a factory service manual is absolutely impossible to do without. I got mine from "helm inc". un plug your ECM and use a dvom meter to check your grounds. bad grounds are one of the biggest pains in the a$$ on these cars. but in the end ,man what a satisfying driver they are. good luck ,and let us know what is happening
Re: Code 36 help!
at this point I would go to oreilleys and get a re-man computer.#7165. and if that don't do it. these cars were released with a wonky PROM. (ask me how I know!) there is a guru on here named "tuned performance" he can provide you with a updated PROM that may well be the end of your problems. he helped me and countless others on this board. and he can help you as well. shoot him a PM. also a factory service manual is absolutely impossible to do without. I got mine from "helm inc". un plug your ECM and use a dvom meter to check your grounds. bad grounds are one of the biggest pains in the a$$ on these cars. but in the end ,man what a satisfying driver they are. good luck ,and let us know what is happening
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 463
Likes: 9
From: Milford, OH
Car: 91 Z28 - using 87 electricals
Engine: 383 HSR EBL
Transmission: 700R4 - Stage 3 Fixed Pressure
Axle/Gears: GM 3.08 POSI
Re: Code 36 help!
I have been chasing this issue for 2.5 years.
About that new ECM, I have/had the same issue you had in my 87, I would not get a new ECM. The problem for me is the ECM is seeing ~2.2-2.4v and it requires ~2.52.7v signal to indicate that the cycle happened. I have two ECMs myself and both produce this issue. My problem lies between the MAF and the ECM.
The signal wire actually runs directly from the MAF to the ECM via a green wire. Where the burn off voltage goes from the relay to the MAFvia a blue wire, and travels through the green wire to the ECM to indicate the cycle is happening.
I know for a fact that my burn off occurs, as I can both trigger it manually and feel it occurring by holding onto the relay. You will know if that cycle does not complete.
In the end I never could solve the problem but I had a custom chip burned that raised the tolerance for the code to be thrown.
Start and check your voltages at the ECM and MAF. Google austin thirdgen wiring diagrams to get which pins to test.
I believe you should check connector 1 pin B12 on your ECM. Probe with a multimeter into its harness and groud the other end somewhere. Have someone or you turn off the car after it has been running a while and see if once the voltage drops to zero briefly it goes back up. I like to ground my multimeter to the door jam switch.
About that new ECM, I have/had the same issue you had in my 87, I would not get a new ECM. The problem for me is the ECM is seeing ~2.2-2.4v and it requires ~2.52.7v signal to indicate that the cycle happened. I have two ECMs myself and both produce this issue. My problem lies between the MAF and the ECM.
The signal wire actually runs directly from the MAF to the ECM via a green wire. Where the burn off voltage goes from the relay to the MAFvia a blue wire, and travels through the green wire to the ECM to indicate the cycle is happening.
I know for a fact that my burn off occurs, as I can both trigger it manually and feel it occurring by holding onto the relay. You will know if that cycle does not complete.
In the end I never could solve the problem but I had a custom chip burned that raised the tolerance for the code to be thrown.
Start and check your voltages at the ECM and MAF. Google austin thirdgen wiring diagrams to get which pins to test.
I believe you should check connector 1 pin B12 on your ECM. Probe with a multimeter into its harness and groud the other end somewhere. Have someone or you turn off the car after it has been running a while and see if once the voltage drops to zero briefly it goes back up. I like to ground my multimeter to the door jam switch.
Re: Code 36 help!
I have been chasing this issue for 2.5 years.
About that new ECM, I have/had the same issue you had in my 87, I would not get a new ECM. The problem for me is the ECM is seeing ~2.2-2.4v and it requires ~2.52.7v signal to indicate that the cycle happened. I have two ECMs myself and both produce this issue. My problem lies between the MAF and the ECM.
The signal wire actually runs directly from the MAF to the ECM via a green wire. Where the burn off voltage goes from the relay to the MAFvia a blue wire, and travels through the green wire to the ECM to indicate the cycle is happening.
I know for a fact that my burn off occurs, as I can both trigger it manually and feel it occurring by holding onto the relay. You will know if that cycle does not complete.
In the end I never could solve the problem but I had a custom chip burned that raised the tolerance for the code to be thrown.
Start and check your voltages at the ECM and MAF. Google austin thirdgen wiring diagrams to get which pins to test.
I believe you should check connector 1 pin B12 on your ECM. Probe with a multimeter into its harness and groud the other end somewhere. Have someone or you turn off the car after it has been running a while and see if once the voltage drops to zero briefly it goes back up. I like to ground my multimeter to the door jam switch.
About that new ECM, I have/had the same issue you had in my 87, I would not get a new ECM. The problem for me is the ECM is seeing ~2.2-2.4v and it requires ~2.52.7v signal to indicate that the cycle happened. I have two ECMs myself and both produce this issue. My problem lies between the MAF and the ECM.
The signal wire actually runs directly from the MAF to the ECM via a green wire. Where the burn off voltage goes from the relay to the MAFvia a blue wire, and travels through the green wire to the ECM to indicate the cycle is happening.
I know for a fact that my burn off occurs, as I can both trigger it manually and feel it occurring by holding onto the relay. You will know if that cycle does not complete.
In the end I never could solve the problem but I had a custom chip burned that raised the tolerance for the code to be thrown.
Start and check your voltages at the ECM and MAF. Google austin thirdgen wiring diagrams to get which pins to test.
I believe you should check connector 1 pin B12 on your ECM. Probe with a multimeter into its harness and groud the other end somewhere. Have someone or you turn off the car after it has been running a while and see if once the voltage drops to zero briefly it goes back up. I like to ground my multimeter to the door jam switch.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 2
From: Montreal, Canada
Car: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z28
Engine: TPI 310ci (LB9)
Transmission: Custom Rebuilt 700R4 - 2600 Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.73 Eaton Limited-Slip
Re: Code 36 help!
My experience was quite different.. I had a code 36 and decided to take the intake apart and see what was up just in case. What I found was astonishing.. In my air filters there was a set of plyers sitting on them (the garage that changed the hood latch years ago left it there no doubt..), the air filters were SUPER dirty (I cleaned them), the intake tract was dirty (cleaned it too), the MAF sensor screens and element inside were both dirty (I cleaned the screens as best I could and shot pressurized air inside the MAF sensor and perhaps this broke off crusty stuff from the element?), I sprayed throttle body cleaner inside the throttle body and wiped it all down so it's clean, cleaned MAF connector, re-installed everything, unplugged battery for a few mins.. Re-connected.. Code never came back and I've been driving it for weeks now and it runs perfect. Maybe try cleaning the MAF that is there with pressurized air and clean the grease of the screens, it might all help!
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 463
Likes: 9
From: Milford, OH
Car: 91 Z28 - using 87 electricals
Engine: 383 HSR EBL
Transmission: 700R4 - Stage 3 Fixed Pressure
Axle/Gears: GM 3.08 POSI
Re: Code 36 help!
I just recently ran a new signal wire to the ECM as I was getting some VD on there, I am not sure if that is a viable solution for you though, or if it would even solve the problem, but test it first..
If you do want to get a chip burned contact Tuned Performance, while I believe his account is turned off he has other methods of contact.
See this thread for him: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/dfi-...ml#post5774306
He really is a great guy, took care of me beyond what I expected.
Last edited by Green89IROC305; Jun 20, 2014 at 10:56 AM.
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Midwest
Car: 1988 Camaro Iroc Z-28
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: R700
Re: Code 36 help!
This sounds a lot like what I went through. My check engine light kept coming on no matter what I did. Finally I took it to an older GM Dealership in town and they traced my issue to the ECM and the harness that hooks to it loose solder on some of the wires shorted out the ecm and the maf and the burn off sensor. Once the ecm and burn off sensor were replaced I then went on line and bought a New MAF, a Granatelli for 309 at Summit Racing. It fits both 305 and 350 TPI and is part number 350100. I hope this helps as well. All I know is now my car runs great. but then it only has 19k original miles on it to. it seems like this is a common issue the ecm causing all kinds of code failures. If I had it to do over again I would have started there in the first place. Mine is a remanufactured one, but there may be new ones still out there somewhere, I'm not sure.
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