I have have a camaro 85 iroc I got the car 3 months ago and had a lot of problem one of it was the ECM burn out and the other one it has all the hardness really bad so I start to fix wiring and cover all wires making sure I don't have no wires making ground so I clear the codes and every time I star it my check engine comes on code 33 MAF sensor so I replaced it with a new one and still light comes on and I drive the light comes off and get to complete stop and light comes on also notice I can smell crude fuel I check relay and wiring and I can feel my idle lil rough I tryed every week I fuel up the tank I put a i injector cleaner but since I have a new ECM and New MAF sensor I don't know what else can be please help thank you

 

ok, dude. you cant go buying a re.man MAF. first thing .they HAVE to be NEW. second ,its to your benefit to convert it to the 86-89 MAF . (instructions are on here ) thirdly ,your injectors need to be up to the task at hand. and the MAF relays need to be good and the right part number. once you have this fixed. you can expect to get it running right.

 

Ok the MAF I got was new I got it from autozone or those are re.man? The relay is new too and what I have to do to the injectors ?

 

if you got it from auto zone ,its a re, man cardone POS. it never will run with that junk.and just because they SAY its the right relay , dosent mean they KNOW it is. you have to have the factory numbers to verify. as for injectors, are they the originals? if so ,its time to call "south bay" and get a set.

 

Ok the relay I have to find out Bc in my camaro I have on the driver side I have one relay that I'm more then sure is the fuel relay and by the battery is another relay that is the fan relay other than that I don't see no more relays on the firewall I fix all the hardness and I don't remember seeing another relay and about the injector I'm more the. Sure it has originals I got the car not to long ago and I order a new engine to swap Bc I still have another problem like when I make a full stop ones I go and I step on it it jumps the gears very fast and feel like the car struggles to pick up I notice Bc when I step on the gas dosent have enough power, Im gonna trace the MAF wiring to se where it takes me and see if I found a relay and where can I buy a new MAF not from autozone

 

Can u get me the website to order the injectors online and if u know where can I get the MAF sensor thanks

 

buy the MAF at oreilleys, made by "rich-porter". get one for a 1989 and do the conversion. you will need to swap ECMs to a 7165 among other things. and "south bay" is a member too, so hit them up for your injector needs.

 

Do I need to replaced the ECM Bc I got the ECM like a month ago Bc was burn when I got it and i put that ECM new so it makes differents when u put a MAF from a 89 and the car is a 85 ? Do u have the number or the website for the store the sells the injectors

 

are you in America??? and google "south bay" injectors. but as I mentioned, they are a member, you can find them on HERE. and yes you need the correct ECM for the new MAF. it will be a 7165. as I know, its almost impossible to find parts for the 85 TPI. most just convert it to the later style. you wont have much problems making the conversion.and when using the 86-89 conversion. you want the 89 MAF because its the last version before they went to speed density.

 

 

my feelings exactly,bob. I don't know what else to tell him. I hope he can figure it out.

 

Does the 85 have MAF relays? I think the 85 uses a MAF control module, which is really just relays inside of a non-serviceable box. Looking at All Data, which isn't necessarily gospel. It shows a MAF power relay at the RH side of the radiator and a burn off relay behind the dash by the ECM. Take a look. The best way I know to be sure you're looking at the right part is by comparing wire colors on a part to the factory diagram. I agree that it is best to convert to the more common later style MAF. The 85 is a one year only and very limited availability.

Before you replace very many more parts, trying to guess what is wrong with it, I would suggest you familiarize yourself with your car. Buy a good service manual and study up. Then follow the diagnostic trouble tree for code 33. You may find that the problem is in the wiring and connections which you said is questionable. If there is a wiring issue, no amount of new parts is ever going to fix it. BTW, the A-1 cardone MAF may work just fine, for a little while. Then again, it may take two or three of the cheap crap pieces before you get a good one.

You say the ECM was burned? How was it burned? ECM failure really isn't that common. If it was in fact smoked, you might want to figure out what caused it to smoke before you run the car too much on the new module, or you may find out the hard way what smoked the old one. Is there bare wiring anywhere that may have shorted to ground? Shorted coils is common in the old injectors too. This will smoke an ECM for sure.

 

Just rechecked All Data(should be called "some" data), and as usual they are mixed up. The wiring diagram shows a "Burn off module", which is probably what they called a burn off relay in their own parts location list. If so, it is located by the ECM. It is the MAF power module, otherwise known as the MAF control module. It is both the power relay and the burn off relay in one unit. Code 33 is "MAF voltage high", which can be caused by the burnoff relay sticking on. It is more likely an open in the signal circuit. That's why you need to complete trouble tree.

 

Cool when I got the car the wiring on the engine was really bad I mean a lot of cables showing and so what I did I disconnect all and fix all open wires and put some wire protector now I put the new ECM and the car runs it had a lot of codes so I know when I put the ECM is a scuare box attach to the ECM bosh brand and I outside on the firewall next to the fuel relay is a square box I'm more than sure is a module the only code I have is the 33 but u right it can be the module next to the ECM I have a repair manual and I being reading and for the injectors Im gonna run the Car and disconnect one by one to see what it does

 

Disconnecting each injector is one way to do a power balance test. It won't tell you if the injectors are okay. One quick way to tell if the coils are okay is to measure resistance. They should read between 12-16 ohms. To really know if the injectors are okay, you need to pull them and send them in for flow and dynamic impedance testing. These tests are done only on an injector sonic cleaning machine. As I said before, you can tell what each item is by comparing wire colors in the connector pins to the wiring diagram. The trouble tree for code 33 will get you to the solution.

 

Do u know what brand of injectors are Good to buy a set And how much LB is required if is 30LB or 36LB/hr what is the differents when u put a bigger LB/hr injector

 

bosch III injectors from "south bay" if you have a 305, its 19lb hr. if you have a 350 , its 22 lbs hr. forget butting bigger injectors in for now. lets concentrate on just getting your car running .

 

Thanks I also let u know sometimes when I put the car on drive the car turn off but it does it sometimes not all the times and I want to ask you if the oxigen sensor can affect By not reading good and confusing the module ?

 

there is a engine code for rich or lean. do you have a check engine light on when its running?

 

The only code i have is the 33 with mass air flow sensor But is on when turn the Key on position And when i star driving check Engine light comes off other than that i dont have no codes But i was wondering if the oxigen sensor has something to do with the module reading

 

Code 33 is MAF high voltage, which could be that the MAF sensor is reading higher than normal at idle. That would explain why the light goes off when you drive. High MAF reading at idle is definitely going to make the car run rich. Until you complete the trouble tree for code 33, there is no telling what is wrong with the car.

As I already said, unless you pinpoint the cause of the problem by following the pinpoint test for the one fault code you have, all the new parts in the world may not fix it.

 

Hi I have a question I was pulling the codes today and found Code 23,34 I was looking for the MAT sensor wich is under the intake manifold and found out I was not connected and also since I fix the hardness I didn't see a cable with the pigtail to plug it back in I only found a wire black/tan but has a different plug so I look in the schematics and the two wires that connect to the MAT sensor are black/tan so I got a cable with the pigtail that goes on that sensor so I connect the sensor to try if that works but when I start the car the rpm raise to 1500 idling and jumps from 1500 to 500 and the brake pedal got very hard I put it on reverse and the brakes won't hold the car when I jump the gear to neutral the rpm go to 500 and jump a lot I disconnect the cable and reset the ECM but the problem stills can some one tell me where the cables that hook to the MAt sensor comes from some one told me they come from the distributor but I'm not sure I cant drive the car Bc the high rpm and brakes are to hard please help

 

Did you disconnect the vacuum line the brake booster? Check that out. I'm confused by your description of the MAT sensor wiring. I'm going to tell you again, you need to do the trouble tree for code 33. Fixing the MAT sensor will help just a tiny bit but your car will never run right with code 33.

 

I found the mat sensor wich was not connect it so i trace the wire i connected and ones I connect it all the codes got off I don't have no more codes and yes I guess when I pull the intake up to connect the MAt sensor I disconnect the hose the car runs very smooth and dosent smell crude fuel anymore thank u for the help

 

Sounds good. The up side to dealing with these issues yourself, is that you become more familiar with your car. The next time you have a problem, you will be better equipped to handle it.

 

Thanks and I was gonna ask u I have a problem with my cooling fan every time I start the car the fan always on and I replaced the colant sensor. is the fan switch the one right next to the colant temp sensor I saw a sensor it is a square plug but I'm not sure

 

Also I have a relay on the passenger side by the radiator wich I disconnect and fan turn off but can be the relay bad ?

 

Does the fan run whenever the key is on? If it always runs, there may be an issue with fan control. The fan relay is controlled by the ECM. If the car has AC, there is a pressure switch that, when closed, causes the ECM to activate the fan. The ECM will also activate the fan in the case of a problem with the ECT sensor. If the ECM reads out of range value from the coolant sensor, it will activate the fan to protect the engine.

It has been my experience that after a repair of either the coolant temp sensor circuit or even repairs not necessarily connected the cooling fan, I will get fan on constant with key on for the first few drive cycles until, I suppose, the ECM is comfortable with everything. Then normal fan operation resumes. Be aware too, on most of these systems the fan will come on anytime the AC is switched on at the HVAC control panel, even if the compressor doesn't run for whatever reason. The AC system, which includes the fan, is activated in DEFROST also.

The relays rarely fail. I won't say they don't fail because they do but it's not that common. A fault in the system is almost always something else.

 

When I got the car the hardness was very bad the fan relay connector u can see the wire pill off and I fix it also when I got it the a/c don't work Bc the clutch is bad so I haven't change the compressor Bc is getting cold I put a new fan relay Bc the old one had water corrosion now seems they swap the engine from a 85 to 91 around there Bc i don't have a V belt pullys so I got a knock sensor by the starter and I have 2 sensors under the MAF sensor I know one is water temp sensor that use black/ yellow wires and right next to it if has another sensor wich the pigtail is a square

 

It looks just like the injector connector that I'm not sure what is that sensor if I'm not mistake is the cold start sensor and other then that I don't have any sensors I was looking for the cooling fan switch but since the ECM runs the relay I think it dosent have one, I put new cooling fan motor Bc the old one lock up now by having the compressor bad and not working can cause the fan to be running all the time ?

 

The fan may run if the AC is turned on at the heater/AC controls. According to the diagrams I have for your car, the fan is turned on only by the ECM by signals from the ECT sensor and AC pressure switch. There is no fan switch. The switch used on later models was only for high temp failsafe. It would turn the fan on at 240 degrees, just before the engine really overheated. Some later models also have a signal from the AC switch on the AC control panel that turned the fan on. Even though my service information doesn't show that on you car, it may be that way. Service info isn't perfect.

You're most likely correct that the second sensor under the MAF sensor is the cold start switch. That switch wasn't used on the 87. I don't know where the cut off was for that. I could figure it out by digging through my info, but not now. You say the vehicle has poly V-belt accessory drive? Is it one single belt? Or are there separate V-belts for the power steering pump and AIR pump? The 87 has a poly V-belt for the alternator but v belts for the PS pump the AIR pump.

 

Hey guys, I have an 89 IROC with code 34 popping up for low voltage at MAF and the sensor is new. The first time I hooked the battery back up after it sitting for months, it ran better than ever before. Then, I parked it to go inside and eat, and 30 mins later it would crank and fire one hit then die. I decided, since the clip was broken off of the connector going to the MAF, to replace the pigtail and put it back together to see if an intermittent signal could be causing the problem. Now when I turn the key to the run position the fuel pump doesn't prime. All fuses are good and I have perfect fuel pressure. Also, no check engine light is on. Does anyone have any idea of what could be causing this?