So I did a tpi swap on my 1969 327. Its currently wont start or idle, It seems like it isn't getting fuel past the injectors. I am getting 41psi at the rail, I have spark. it will start for a moment on start spray but like I don't think the injectors are spraying. Custom prom I burned it myself I will attach it if you want to look and see if I missed something on it. By the way the fuel pump is running so I don't think its a vats issue. Should i just pop the fuel rail/injectors off and see if they are spraying?

 

Are the injectors firing?

 

whats the best way to test that? I was thinking to just pop the rail off with them and try turning it over. btw I did test them with an ohm meter before I put this in the truck. they all had good ohm readings.

 

A noid light will tell you if they are getting the system to fire (ground trigger from ECM).

Most likely culprits are bad/not enough grounds on the ECM and engine, bad ignition control module, bad ECM, or no signal from ECM to ignition control module. Check continuity between the top of your plenum and the chassis, it should be close to or below 1 ohm.

This problem rears up from time to time in the forums, I did a basic google search and came up with tons of threads on Thirdgen about it. Also;

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=153617

 

Thanks for the info I will have to give this stuff a shot over the weekend.

 

If you have someone that can crank the engine for you you can also listen for the injectors firing. Put a screwdriver tip on the injector and your ear against the end of the handle while they crank it. You should hear the injector cycling if it's firing. It will be a loud fast clicking.

 

I do not think Vats controls the fuel pump. Vats interrupts the starter circuit and prevents the injectors from firing. Since you have a swap, I'll assume you did not install the starter interrupt box. When I did my swap, I failed to insert a pin and wiring from the vats module to the ecm, so the car would crank ok, but not start. If it is a vats issue, your injectors will not be firing. Eventually, I removed the vats module and had vats programmed out of the chip.

 

Ok so I did some tests today. I have a 0 ohm reading from the top of the motor to the fire wall. I used a noid light and got nothing. I do have 12+ to the injectors. I attached my BIN if anyone cares to take a look. Now I programmed out vats unless somehow I missed it, now the blue vats wire, does it need 12+ because right now I don't have it wired into anything.

Also could it be the park/neutral? I havent wired that in to anything yet. If so do I have to wire it in to the clutch pedal?

 

Sounds like either your ECM is not sending the trigger to ground the injectors, or the ignition module isn't triggering the ECM. Follow the link I sent earlier to troubleshoot both. Rule out the simple stuff before delving into troubleshooting VATS.

 

-Ive tested with all the injectors unplugged with just the noid light and got nothing so it is not a shorted injector.
-I have 3 power feeds to my ecu all of which are good.They are as follows pin G,B and F on c207(let me know if I am supposed to have more.)
How do I test the ignition control? I do have spark. all of the ECU grounds are to the engine block correct? I think all my grounds are good.

 

If it's a VATS issue, thats simple to check in the file. It's either on or off, for a swap it should be OFF. Had this same issue when I first tried to start my swap, forgot to turn off VATS

 

Vats disabled on $8D would be a hex of 04 at 0016 correct?

 

Can't remember, but if you're using Tunerpro it's a checkbox for VATS, no need to really get into the code.

 

Checked or unchecked?
EDit: i was missreading the pinout it said e15 and its a good ground.

 

Following this flow chart I think I have a bad ICM http://www.chevythunder.com/est_code_42.htm

So i have a reading of 230ish ohms on wire c8 white and 12.4 on c7 using c7 as a ground. disconnect the ICM and goes to 0 volts.
I am going to swap out for another dissy at the junk yard(he warranties his parts) and this on is from the yard came with the whole tpi system.

Can someone explain why I still have spark with the ICM being bad? I thought when that goes out on these electronic controlled dissy that they stop having spark. I am completely new to EFI before a month ago I figured EFI and witchcraft were the same thing. I understand points/carb very well but this stuff isnt as easy for me.

 

You can leave the blue vats wire unhooked and taped off since you have vats turned off on your chip. Concerning the park/neutral wire, it should be grounded when the transmission is in park or neutral. For a swap, some information I have read says to just permanently connect that wire to ground. Either way, it should not cause the motor to not start.

 

Make sure the ECM ignition wire is not connected to an accessory terminal. It must be hot while cranking.

 

355l98 all my 12v+ are all good and are not accessory. It was not the ICM. I put a another one on today and still nothing

 

Garnerm, which ecm are you running? MAF or SD. At this point, you may need to do a pinout and check each pin in the ecm harness and verify that they terminate where the circuit diagram says.

 

7730. I am using the same harness i pulled them from the same car. 7730 is a SD

 

I am now resoldering my dip connector on the memcal I think some of connections might not have been so good.

 

all the connections on the memcal are good. still nothing.

 

Garnerm, in post #10 you mentioned that you have three power feeds going to the ecm via connector c207. My swap is maf, I'm not too familier with SD, but I have circuit diagrams for both. Looking at the diagram for SD, there are three power feeds to the ecm. BA6, in the 24 pin connector, is 12V+ ignition feed. That one is probably being feed thru the c207 connector. There are also two battery feeds, hot at all times. BC16 and BB1, these two may not be fed from connector c207, but wired in the main harness. That's the way it was in my maf swap. I suggest you check the power feeds going to the ecm by back probing the ecm connectors. BC16 is in the 32 pin black connector and BB1 is in the 24 pin black connector.

 

I solved it! with help from others... My eprom was not compatible. the chip itself so I ordered SST 27sf512 chips and they were $5 cheaper than the original one I bought. burned a new chip and it lives!

 

Great that you were able to solve your problem. Enjoy.