Major Bogging and lost of power after turning on engine hot or cold restarts then goes away slightly But still has lose of power and throttle response

When it happens I'm at wot and has literally no power after min or so power starts to come back but it's not crisp power delivery

I thought it was cold related but it's not happens hot or cold
Only thing that's constant is that it reoccurs when shitting engine down and starting it up again

Plugs wires coil ign control module and rotor cap are new
Ohm injectors there all 16-17 ohm there Bosch 3 24lb
Fuel pressure checks out 43 idle 50 wot
Volts to fuel pump are 12.50ish and above have to double check never below that while driving or idle added extra ground straight to batt to driver side head
No vacuum leaks
Tps sensor checks out
Map is new also

I'm sure I'm missing stuff all mechanical stuff checks out

Also this started couple days ago also I will swap wire out again also I had 8mm but not store had 8mm so I got what was available reason being wire had melted on header twice before changing ignition stuff and car was running really strong also and now it just doesn't compare engine teams have less than 8000miles also it's built can etc

 

Also when in park after restarting it crackle and pops but not same as a rich backfire it goes away
Also little crackle and pop during wot

Also on my wideband it flashes real lean then along with power coming back on it stabilizes and lean I'm talking about like 20.3 ish

 

All throttle manipulation was wot 100% tps
And also where rpm is going up and down is also 100% tps
You can see how it gradually jumps in rpm when it downshifts quicker and quicker

 

I'd check for proper fuel tank venting.

 

Humming sound does come from fuel tank at times but never thought much of it as it happen on another thirdgen I had

But what does it have to do with my issue can you explain some

 

If the tank isn't vented , it will build a vacuum and can cause the pump to work harder. Measure for adequate volume as well as pressure. Also check the inlet sock on the pump.

 

so got a spark tester and tested at coil first
at 40kv got erratic spark here and there
30kv it was a little better
20kv consistent spark


pulled dizzy took it apart and replace pick up coil
replace all wires found 3 had cracks in them so spark was leaking out
3rd set of wires in a little over a week


have bigger better wires coming in I ordered as non locally had the ones I wanted


decided to replace plugs also just cause i don't like doing double work lol and proper gap on them


check base timing was set at 4* so idk if previous owner set that or may have slip adjustment some how


but I set base timing at 9*


still running Really crappy all around worst then before and was really super super rich so that explains the crappy drivability now so I adjusted upper and lower VE tables " which is odd since according to wide band VE was pretty lock on just needed fine adjustments " accordingly subtracted 2* timing from entire table which is my fault should of did that before drive since increasing base timing took for another spin and bam THE BEAST IS BACK lol


end of day feel like a idiot and should of did this in the beginning but she threw me off when she was running super strong and this started out of no where


cant wait to get those meaty wires stock replacements just cant handle the heat from the headers


anyways thanks