new engine. need mod advice
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 51
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From: calgary
Car: 92 z28 convertible
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 to1
new engine. need mod advice
hey fellas. i just picked up the other day an 86 vette l98. i have a few questions about moding it. i know its all about the combo of parts. my budget is limitless but im not going for crazyness. i want my camaro to be comfortable and fun. not crazy and scary. ... so that being said, i was thinking vortech heads, edelbrock manifold and runners, zz4 cam, roller rockers, long tube headers. would that put it over 300hp ? is there a better cam or other items i should look at?
Re: new engine. need mod advice
You're probably not going to get many replies with such a wide open ended type question. Trying to be helpful, search is your friend. Use the advance search function and search for VORTEC in the title (drop down box). This will give you a ton of info on Vortec heads and the Vortec TPI intake.
In general, the combo you listed should put out over 300HP. However, the Vortec TPI intake doesn’t flow as well as the standard port aftermarket TPI. It really needs some porting, which if you can’t do yourself adds a good bit to the build. The ZZ3/ZZ4 cam’s lift is high enough that you’ll need to clearance the Vortec heads and would probably want to install screw in studs for safety/insurance against pulling out a pressed in stud. That’s why I typically suggest keeping lift around .460” to really keep the build in the budget range. You start having to port, clearance, and buy springs, lock, retainers, then the budget aluminum heads that flow more become much more appealing – and could actually cost less in the long run.
Then there is the long runner short runner intake debate. If you want to go long runner and if you’re starting from scratch, the FIRST Fuel Injections (FFI) intake at $1000 is very appealing since it comes with the base, runners, throttle body, and fuel rails. Plus it flows better than a fully ported (non-welded) aftermarket TPI base and runners (which would cost more than $1000 total). It’s a really good choice for the wide ratio 700R4 which has a significant drop in RPM at the shift recovery point. It doesn’t require as much stall speed and gearing compared to a short runner intake either. If you’re running a standard transmission and considering a different intake, then the Holley StealthRam (HSR) is a really good choice since the closer ratio of the standard keeps the engine in its power-band at the shift recovery points. I’ve run a fully ported stock base and SLP runners, box-stock FIRST, and HSR on a mild 355 build in front of a TH350 and 3.23 gears. I preferred the FIRST with its more responsive throttle response, but the HSR ran about the same ETs and did run better from a WOT kick.
Anyway, see how this can go – lol. So, use the search function (VORTEC, FFI, HSR) and come back with a new thread asking more specific questions and I’m sure you’ll find more folks willing to reply.
Good luck with the build.
In general, the combo you listed should put out over 300HP. However, the Vortec TPI intake doesn’t flow as well as the standard port aftermarket TPI. It really needs some porting, which if you can’t do yourself adds a good bit to the build. The ZZ3/ZZ4 cam’s lift is high enough that you’ll need to clearance the Vortec heads and would probably want to install screw in studs for safety/insurance against pulling out a pressed in stud. That’s why I typically suggest keeping lift around .460” to really keep the build in the budget range. You start having to port, clearance, and buy springs, lock, retainers, then the budget aluminum heads that flow more become much more appealing – and could actually cost less in the long run.
Then there is the long runner short runner intake debate. If you want to go long runner and if you’re starting from scratch, the FIRST Fuel Injections (FFI) intake at $1000 is very appealing since it comes with the base, runners, throttle body, and fuel rails. Plus it flows better than a fully ported (non-welded) aftermarket TPI base and runners (which would cost more than $1000 total). It’s a really good choice for the wide ratio 700R4 which has a significant drop in RPM at the shift recovery point. It doesn’t require as much stall speed and gearing compared to a short runner intake either. If you’re running a standard transmission and considering a different intake, then the Holley StealthRam (HSR) is a really good choice since the closer ratio of the standard keeps the engine in its power-band at the shift recovery points. I’ve run a fully ported stock base and SLP runners, box-stock FIRST, and HSR on a mild 355 build in front of a TH350 and 3.23 gears. I preferred the FIRST with its more responsive throttle response, but the HSR ran about the same ETs and did run better from a WOT kick.
Anyway, see how this can go – lol. So, use the search function (VORTEC, FFI, HSR) and come back with a new thread asking more specific questions and I’m sure you’ll find more folks willing to reply.
Good luck with the build.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 8,494
Likes: 411
From: Sophia, NC
Car: 2016 Camaro SS + 1986 Z28
Re: new engine. need mod advice
I agree with BadSS about this being a very general question. SOOOO many different ways to go. ...especially since you say your budget is limitless!!! Because I love a TPI, but with a limitless budget, heck even I would go LS. ...but that's another discussion. ...The only reason for vortec heads is budget. Good as they are, you can buy better, PLUS....as BadSS said, that TPI vortec manifold needs some heavy porting. ...and then valvetrain work for a zz4 cam lift.
Gotta find your "Anchor Goal" as I like to call it. For ME, it was keeping the long runner TPI. I knew that meant aftermarket parts, and porting. Honestly, it's not logical, but for me it was about keeping it mostly stock appearing. I knew the extra work and money that would be involved, and could chose parts accordingly. Cam, heads, etc. etc.
Doesn't sound like budget is an issue for you. How about performance goals? Do you wanna keep that TPI? Fuel economy for daily driving? Power level? What are your goals?
Gotta find your "Anchor Goal" as I like to call it. For ME, it was keeping the long runner TPI. I knew that meant aftermarket parts, and porting. Honestly, it's not logical, but for me it was about keeping it mostly stock appearing. I knew the extra work and money that would be involved, and could chose parts accordingly. Cam, heads, etc. etc.
Doesn't sound like budget is an issue for you. How about performance goals? Do you wanna keep that TPI? Fuel economy for daily driving? Power level? What are your goals?
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 8,494
Likes: 411
From: Sophia, NC
Car: 2016 Camaro SS + 1986 Z28
Re: new engine. need mod advice
Couple other quick things. ....is an 86 block a roller block? Because the zz4 is definitely a roller cam. ...and for what it's worth, my 89 L98, with zz4 cam and full exhaust and stock TPI drove awesome for over 10 years. Good sound, little lope, 22 mpg with a 3.27 gear, great power compared to stock. ...ran awesome on the stock 89 MAF tune, although it's been retuned since.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: calgary
Car: 92 z28 convertible
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 to1
Re: new engine. need mod advice
Couple other quick things. ....is an 86 block a roller block? Because the zz4 is definitely a roller cam. ...and for what it's worth, my 89 L98, with zz4 cam and full exhaust and stock TPI drove awesome for over 10 years. Good sound, little lope, 22 mpg with a 3.27 gear, great power compared to stock. ...ran awesome on the stock 89 MAF tune, although it's been retuned since.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 8,494
Likes: 411
From: Sophia, NC
Car: 2016 Camaro SS + 1986 Z28
Re: new engine. need mod advice
I'm with ya on not going LS. At the end of the day, it IS a better platform, but I agree with NOT going that way. I actually bought an LS (LQ9) but sold it because I decided to stay gen1 TPI.
So I get what it is you're asking, but honestly it's still tricky to answer. What is acceptable to me, you, and anyone else is just SO subjective. Not really a "right" answer. ....but I'll give it a shot.
...before we get to the motor, let me also throw this out there. Assuming you have an automatic...( I used to, but swapped in a t5)....consider transmission upgrades. I bought a 700r4 that had been rebuilt with a shift kit and a 2400 holeshot converter. HUGE seat of the pants difference! Definitely made the car more fun to drive! Or heck, swap in a manual trans like I did. Huge fun factor upgrade! Also consider a rear gear change. I had a 2.77 and swapped in a 3.27. Might have gone to a 3.42/3.45, but I got a deal on the 3.27. That also made a big difference. ...and we haven't even got to the engine yet. I'd also do subframe connectors, and replace the bushings, and make sure you have good shocks/struts/springs. Even if you don't lower the car with high end parts, at LEAST don't have 25 year old worn suspension parts!!!! ...just my two cents, but if I had a running driving car, I would do those first, BEFORE you get into serious engine mods. Just me, speaking from experience.
So I get what it is you're asking, but honestly it's still tricky to answer. What is acceptable to me, you, and anyone else is just SO subjective. Not really a "right" answer. ....but I'll give it a shot.
...before we get to the motor, let me also throw this out there. Assuming you have an automatic...( I used to, but swapped in a t5)....consider transmission upgrades. I bought a 700r4 that had been rebuilt with a shift kit and a 2400 holeshot converter. HUGE seat of the pants difference! Definitely made the car more fun to drive! Or heck, swap in a manual trans like I did. Huge fun factor upgrade! Also consider a rear gear change. I had a 2.77 and swapped in a 3.27. Might have gone to a 3.42/3.45, but I got a deal on the 3.27. That also made a big difference. ...and we haven't even got to the engine yet. I'd also do subframe connectors, and replace the bushings, and make sure you have good shocks/struts/springs. Even if you don't lower the car with high end parts, at LEAST don't have 25 year old worn suspension parts!!!! ...just my two cents, but if I had a running driving car, I would do those first, BEFORE you get into serious engine mods. Just me, speaking from experience.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 8,494
Likes: 411
From: Sophia, NC
Car: 2016 Camaro SS + 1986 Z28
Re: new engine. need mod advice
As for the engine, here's my two cents. Plan for the future. Pay the money and get a set of heads that will never under-perform on that 350. Get a good high end set of 180cc (approx.) heads, and with no other changes, your L98 will perform MUCH better. Get a cam later on and it'll get better. Get an aftermarket base.....better still. Get tired of TPI, throw in a monster cam and a miniram or a big single plane carb, and it'll still be a beast. Not saying the same heads are PERFECT for all of those examples, but they'll work well. Spend the money, get GOOD heads, and you'll be happy today, and they'll realistically work with every upgrade you may or may NOT decide to do down the road.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: calgary
Car: 92 z28 convertible
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 to1
Re: new engine. need mod advice
As for the engine, here's my two cents. Plan for the future. Pay the money and get a set of heads that will never under-perform on that 350. Get a good high end set of 180cc (approx.) heads, and with no other changes, your L98 will perform MUCH better. Get a cam later on and it'll get better. Get an aftermarket base.....better still. Get tired of TPI, throw in a monster cam and a miniram or a big single plane carb, and it'll still be a beast. Not saying the same heads are PERFECT for all of those examples, but they'll work well. Spend the money, get GOOD heads, and you'll be happy today, and they'll realistically work with every upgrade you may or may NOT decide to do down the road.
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Bowdon, GA.
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
Re: new engine. need mod advice
Like has already been said.. Vortec heads are great BUDGET heads. The TPI intake for vortec heads and high lift cam then runs the price way up.. By the time you are done spending out for the vortec intake, you could have just went with aftermarket heads.
IMHO the vortec heads are best budget heads for carb and TBI setups.
I would recommend some lower priced good aftermarket heads in the 180-190cc range like pro-filer or brodix IK heads. They are around $1000-1200 and uses the std. common sbc intake bolt pattern.
IMHO the vortec heads are best budget heads for carb and TBI setups.
I would recommend some lower priced good aftermarket heads in the 180-190cc range like pro-filer or brodix IK heads. They are around $1000-1200 and uses the std. common sbc intake bolt pattern.
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