Anyone have some first hand experience running this setup on their TPI motor? I've been searching but can't find much info on how well it works (or doesn't). Or is there another similar system that can be used that is known to work well?

I'm sticking with a TPI type manifold and self-tuning is the main goal. I have zero interest in learning to tune myself (don't have the time for it either) and I'm at the very end of the rope with the MAF and stock ECM on this particular car.

 

I did this swap car run great.............

 

I'm right in the middle of doing this swap into my '87 IROC. I went with the ez-efi 2.0 setup, a dual sync distributor, and an E6 ignition box. The factory wiring on my car and motor were shot so this made the most sense.

Haven't been able to get the car running yet so I can't say how well it's going to run, but I had a buddy use an ez-efi setup on his '69 suburban with a big block. Drove it around off and on for a few weeks and it just kept running better so I'm hopeful that my setup will do the same.

 

Awesome, thanks for the responses! Jharrison, please let me know how it does when it's up and running

 

Will do. Its been a slow process with my build due to family and finances, but I'll get her running again soon. My new ignition box and coil should be here within a few days.

 

I'm running a TPI manifold on my 383 using Holley HP EFI. The self tuning is working very well. It's important to remember that there's a difference between running well and absolute max power. The Fuel and timing and target AFR in the base tune are very conservative. The only "self tuning" it does is to adjust fueling to meet target AFR. ....so while my car is running awesome...and "learning" all the fueling needed for the various tables....I'm aware there's power on the table. I'm learning the software and how to read my datalogs, hoping that once it's "learned" everything, I can go back in and start getting a little more aggressive with the tune.

That being said, I don't feel it would be necessary to do any additional tuning. I've always wanted to learn tuning, so I'll go further once I'm ready...but if you just want a good, solid tune, I feel the "self tune" would provide that.

 

any updates on this?????????

 

I just ordered one for a 80 z/28 with a holley stealth.

 

It's been a while since this post, but I have the same type project right now. I'm about to re-pin some sensor harnesses to run the FAST ez-efi retrofit. What I'm worried about is that I will get NO help from the ESC and/or spark timing advance by doing this. Hopefully somebody that has done this successfully will chime in with how to cope with this.

 

I'm not sure I understand your concern. ? Do you mean the FAST system won't do this?

 

From my research into this kit I found that once the EZ system is implemented your stock ecm is pointless. They recommend going with at least a vacuum advance distributor or a dual sync distributor on the high end. For the spark control you'll need a box of your choosing. There are a number of options to choose from, but in the end I went with all FAST components and for the most part everything was plug n play.

The reason I went this route was that with the full Fast setup the EZ box can adjust the timing for better AFR and tuning.

 

Does this self learning thing work the power enrichment as well as the part throttle stuff?

 

I believe from looking at your stuff, you used EZ-EFI 2.0? That one can control timing. But if I'm wrong, could you be specific as to which "boxes" I can choose from for an '87 L98 TPI?

What I'm trying to do is this: [TEMPORARILY] Have the sensors required by the EZ-EFI retro multiport kit send their signals to the new E.C.U. AND the old GM ecm. I'm re-setting pins in those sensor harnesses to lead pigtails on the sensor output (not input voltages). These are:
TPS
RPM/TACH
MAT
Coolant Temp
....then, I'm adding a 1-bar MAP sensor just for EZ and leaving the functional MAF sensor for GM
....also, adding the wideband O2 for the EZ and leaving the NB o2 for GM

All this should allow the GM to listen for knock, respond to speed and load for the Torque Lockup, use it's spark advance tables even though it's fuel signals will go nowhere. This EZ retrofit only controls fuel.

This seems like work, I know, but if I can get this FAST system dialed in and it looks stock and drives without C.E.L. and all my gauges work...I have vortec 906's ported and matched to scoggin TPI manifold in the future( with a Cam to be determined from vacuum and displacements ) What a dream.

 

I was under the impression that the 2.0 could control timing advance, using a stock (hopefully?) or aftermarket distributor. Is this not the case? Another controller is needed as well?

 

This learning ecu will adjust the fuel injector pulses automatically and intelligently, towards an air/fuel ratio you can adjust higher or lower. The next expensive level adds timing to it (which I feel wasn't advertised clearly). Newer FAST XFI sportsman and XFI 2.0 add more capabilities for boosted cars and more in depth tuning as well as auto learning.

I chose the "EZ-EFI Multiport Retrofit Kit for GM vehicles...including TPI" - which now that I've laid it out and understood how it functions, should NOT say it works with TPI, better yet TPI engines that have been changed to carb or owners that don't mind basic vacuum advance timing that's harder to tune and more parts to "retrofit". But whatever, I'm going to try and make it work.

I suspect that some of the signals I'm sharing with the FAST ECU are going to upset the GM ecu because the FAST ecu might not ground the 5v signal the same way GM does...but we'll see!

 

So your running the ez xfi 2.0 with dual sync distributor and the fast crank trigger?

 

Your impression is right, the dizzy has to be vacuum advance or dual-sync types and some type of HEI with a tach signal has to be present

 

I'm not. I've got GM ecm, MSD dizzy, Accel HEI, an engine that was rebuilt SUPPOSEDLY with corvette pistons, slightly bigger cam, slp headers, and a JET chip I haven't bothered to unearth.

 

ok I'm running the same one....... removed the all the stock stuff, using a Mech advance dizzy and a MSD box......... Car runs great... no complaints here..... Over the winter going to upgrade to the newer system that can control the spark advance.

 

So do your gauges work? Is the C.E.L. on all the time? And did you have a 700r4 at first? I don't know if you had overdrive functioning, NBD.

 

But there is a ez efi retro kit and also an ez efi 2.0 retro kit. Which one do you have? I thought the 2.0 had timing control. Could have swore that's what it says in the FAST catalog.

 

YES all my gauges work..... NO Check engine light. NO 700r I'm running a W/C t-5.
If fact I've removed the entire wiring harness and emc.

 

there are two different kits.
1. 30200-06 in summit for $1088.97
2.30404 -kit in summit for 1251.97
I'm running 30200-06 right now. Over the winter I'm upgrading to the 2nd one.
Which one do you have.

 

Yeah, I shoulda got the 2.0, had I known ver. 1 basically disables the ecm. Talked to useless guy at FAST and said 2.0 ISN'T AN UPGRADE...it's another complete system with different harness, different sensors needed, different connection to the different ecu, complete with a different handheld, so I'm stuck with ver. 1

 

Sensors are the same, the only thing that they added is that now your going to need a compatible dizzy. Your right in saying that the wiring harness is different and the ECM is different, but basically it the same. I would suggest that you should remove the stock harness,and ECM don't cut anything.

 

I'm getting back into the "retro-fit" and the tach signal seems to be an issue. I have a remote coil (Accel) and MSD Billet Distributor but I can't seem to get the right tach signal that drives the dash gauge to go to the FAST ecu. Trying not to buy a CD box cuz there's just really no room for it back there!

 

I'll look at my setup tomorrow getting ready to change over to the 2.0 system

 

OK, I check my setup and the tach signal comes form my MSD box get's split between the gauge wire and the FAST ECM.......

 

 

I've got an "Accel" remote coil setup and the picture I posted above shows my blue lead coming off that white wire (soldered). It wasn't working at first but apparently because these tach wires were close enough to the spark plug wires to cause significant interference. I moved the bundle up and away and she fires up.

Today was the first New England day worthy of road testing, so I'm working out a few seldom check engine light appearances: Lean Condition or EST system. I think it's from the EGR system not jiving with F.A.S.T. ez-efi.

It also stumbles from a stop and sometimes stalls, but day 1 means I haven't had a lot of learning taken place.

 

 

That distributor is an advantage over my gm ecm controlled spark advance. You'll lose knock sensor timing retard I think. Torque converter lockup capability is controlled by the gm ecm and requires the maf/map and tps signals at least.

So with stick shift, no egr, good timing and advancement adjustment to avoid detonation and I think you're fine.

 

 

I think that's a mechanical cable on the trans...I didn't encounter any malfunctions. The gauges work as follows:
1) Temp: sensor sender on engine block
2) Fuel: Sender in tank
3) Tach: Signal from coil & Tach adapter OR direct from an ignition box
4) Speedo: Gear driven cable from tranny
5) Battery: Direct from the battery? I think the gauge does the work.

I took my second cooling fan's switch out of the block (Ez-Efi switches it now) and replaced it with normal two wire coolant temp sensor for the gauge. I gave FAST the existing sensor in the manifold. Give the map sensor it's very own vacuum port in the rear plenum. The air temp sensor is underneath that same area. TPS and IAC plug right in. My a/c is broke but will need a spliced wire when I fix it. A 12v source that's switched by ignition is the next thing I need to permanently hook up(through firewall to fuse box).

I already feel like it runs better(day 2, drive 2), and it finally starts within 1 second of cranking!

 

 

I'm considering buying the EZ-EFI 2.0 retrofit along with their dual-sync distributor and doing away with my ECM. I don't have the time to learn the tuning and I want to get my car running already. Does anyone know if the injector connectors will fit the factory style injectors? I heard that all of the connectors on their harness are now LS style and won't fit the older Gen I small block connectors. Is this true? Also, did any of you have to change your fuel pump?

 

Yes the injector harness is the newer USCAR (EV6) connector style, so you'll need the adapters to make them fit the older Minitimer (EV1) injectors. I purchased the adapters from Summit when I bought my kit and the set of eight was in the $13-$20 range if I remember correctly.

As for the fuel pump, if you're running a non LS engine or trying to make a ton of power, then the factory pump will work fine. I had already upgraded mine to a Granatelli GM722-2 255lph pump because I was going the LS route at first.

 

Im running 27 lb injectors. Do you think they will be ok with the stock fuel pump? How would you rate the system overall? I’ve heard mixed reviews. I’m thinking this is my best option next to buying a whole new system with intake and TB. I already have a stealth ram, injectors, and fuel rails so I’d really hate to ditch all that stuff. My original plan was to program my PROM but I’ve gotten nowhere with that and it’s very time consuming.

 

I don't think you'll have any issues, but you never know. Unfortunately my car still isn't in running condition so I can't speak as to how well the system works. I had to put my project on hold when my life went nuts the last couple years with aging parents, back surgery, divorce, and then having to completely start over again. I'm really pushing to get the old girl running this summer though!

 

I hear ya. I’ve been kinda in the same boat with putting things on hold. The PROM programming is way more advanced than I have time for. I’d like to get my car running as soon as I can so I can enjoy the nice weather. Thanks for the input.

 

One more question. Do you know if all of the other connectors will work with Gen I small block sensors or are they also set up for LS style sensors?

 

They are Gen 1 connectors.

 

I just finish up the ez efi 2.0 swap from my ez efi 1.0. I highly recommend using the dual sync distributor.
My car is a 5 speed with a L-31 350 TPI with white performance aluminum heads and comp cam,
and 24 lb injectors
What a pleasure driving this car.

 

I know this post is kinda old, hopefully I'll get some feed back still. Seems we have same setup, I'm trying to get a EZ EFI 1.0 system to work on a 350 TPI fuel system. I got the car without stock computer and harness so I'm going this route. Wondering if I could bounce some ideas around?

I have hooked it all up right I believe, talked to all the fast techs, still can't seem to get tack signal to the handheld.

Power to true battery +, ground to bat, signal wire to vehicle fuse block, running fast HEI distributor (brand new), getting 10.5 ish volts during crank on handheld.
Have done test on fast ecu and rpm module both seem to work. I'm tapped into the brown tach original wire that was on the car that goes to the tach out put on the distributor, getting tach signal to the tachometer in car but no tach signal to handheld. Did continuity test from post on HEI to first connector out of the ECU tach wire and 0.1ohms so seems good.

Does anyone have any advice or somthing I could try? I've done more than I have mention but this should give you a ball park idea of where I'm at. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks all

 

Have you tried running the tach wire for the gauge to the handheld to see if there is an issue with the handheld?

 

I have a tach wire going to the handheld and have done the tests for it and the rpm module, both the tests have shown RPM signal. Update as well techs say I need to have 11 V during crank and I only have 10.5 so I'm looking for a short right now. It's odd tho multi meter at battery, starter, distributor battery wire all say 12.7 volts sitting, not during crank but hand held reads 11.8.

 

My handheld was giving me issues during the initial setup until I put my battery charger on it. The techs said it wasn't seeing enough voltage even though I had 12v keyed.

 

For anyone who's going to this thread, looking for assistance on timing. Hooking up the EZ-EFI system is quite easy. You'll want to use the EZ-EFI 2.0 because it does control spark timing, but it needs the right signal. If you have a small block Chevy, this is absurdly easy, you simply just buy their dual-sync distributor, and it's all plug and play. If you have something other than a V8, you can re-use your stock GM (or whatever) distributor, and use specific leads off the ignition control module.

I made this diagram for a Fiero, but it will help if you're going this route and have the two-plug ignition coil. But to be fair though, with this system, unless you are trying to keep it stock looking, you don't have to stick with this coil anymore.



V6/60 Ignition Wiring


Easiest thing to do is to combine this system with an MSD 6EFI system. It comes with a manual for integration with the EZ-EFI 2.0 system, and it's basically plug and play. The pin-outs from the ICM will go to the EZ-EFI system, but then the "points output" from the EZ-EFI 2.0 system goes to the 6EFI, which then feeds the coil. Best of both worlds.

 

Could this also work with the larger CIC GM Distributor?