Hi everyone in New to the forums I have a 1986 camaro irocz 305 tpi auto my grand father owned it in the early ninties and died in 94 after that it overheated and engine was ripped apart to fix but no one did it three years ago I saved it from where it was stored. I rebuilt pretty much the entire top end original sensors. Its got New intake gaskets spark plugs and wires cap rotor. Now my question is it runs pretty good but when you come to slow down and stop you got to keep the idle up a little with the gas pedal to keep it running otherwise it runs rough and dies.it fires back up with no problem tho .sometimes I'll have it idle in the yard and it seems to run pretty smooth and then will die .what could cause this problem I can drive it this way but it's anoying. Any help is appreciated

 

Welcome.
Sound like you need to set Min Idle and TPS.
Try this procedure to the T
Check for vacuum leaks on all the mating surfaces and hoses.

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/tpimod2.shtml

 

Ok I will try those and I'll let you know what happens would that explain why the car runs really crappy with the maf plugged in or you think it would need to be clean

 

And what do you think the best way of finding any vacuum leaks are

 

The MAF MAY be bad. I'd clean it first with MAF cleaner. Use a UNLIT propane/butane torch. Spray it around all the joints while engine is running. Once you see the engine increase...you found your leaks. Check all the hoses too.

 

Its a different maf it didn't want to work with the one it had so I put another and it still acts up I'll try cleaning it tho and when I was looking at it last I saw the two vacuum lines going from the egr selonoid to the egr were melted think that could have any affect at all thanks for all the help

 

Yep, that would do it for sure

 

Ok I'll change the lines out clean the maf and set everything when I get the chance and I'll post what happens

 

I didn't think the melted lines did anything cause I thought if it was a vacuum leak it would amway have a problem not just at stops

 

EGR is closed at idle. The solenoid opens and closed the EGR at speeds. Constantly on and off depending on the computer. Its all vacuum and electrically controlled.

 

And would that be why it only happens at slower speed and idle

 

Causative noticed its more of something it wants to do when the engine warms up also

 

I would venture to say yes.

 

Speaking from experience, a melted vacuum line between the EGR solenoid and the EGR valve will make the engine very unhappy .

 

http://www.gmtips.com/3rd-degree/dox/tips/ecm/prom.htm
Heat related issue maybe your injectors you might want to ohm them warm.
Any malfunction codes ?

 

Their is a check engine light I haven't read it yet tho

 

You might want to start the diagnostic there .
https://www.obd-codes.com/faq/read-g...codes-free.php

 

most likely the light is for the maf since its unplugged to run better

 

nothing like a band aid fix.

 

More like temporary till I could figure it out its not my daily driver

 

It's like you're fighting a lean condition, low fuel pressure or injectors are the first things that come to mind .

 

What should the injectors ohm at for good injectors

 

Iirc 14-17 warm with a 1/2 ohm variance.
With any readings 12ohm or less, you need to replace your injectors

 

Is their a cold spec for them

 

They need to be checked with the engine warm

 

Got a list of codes 44, 42, 36, 12, 33, 34. Any idea on these

 

also all the injectors were 18 ohms and the tos is 2.63 ohms can't get it lower then 2.3ohms

 

And when trying to set minimum idle it wouldn't go below 1000 nowhere near 450 like sopossed to

 

Having the maf unplugged explains the maf codes, setting timing can throw the 42.
The engine was probably lean with the maf plugged in now your in limp home mode. You might want to disconnect the battery to clear the codes and install some new injectors.
https://www.southbayfuelinjectors.co...el-injectors-8

 

I'll try reseting the battery and see what happens with 18 ohms do you think the injectors are bad and when ever I plug the maf in it runs rougher and stalls its hard to keep it going

 

I was under the impression you stated two were 2.3-2.63 ohms ?

 

No what I meant is the injectors are 18 ohms the tps is 2.63 and the lowest I can get it is 2.3 I was under the impression it should be like 0.54

 

Sounds like a bad tps or the throttle blades have been opened up way to far with the minimum idle speed screw. The tps reading is done on the blue signal return and blk ground wire. You may have a bad tps if your grey wire is 5v and you can lower the tps reading with the min idle speed set. With 2.6 volts the throttle would be open half way. If the idle is still high setting the min idle speed you have a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak can tell the o2 the engine is running lean.

 

the screw was in the factory location. Which one is the black wire I was testing at the top two the blue one was in the middle I tried seting min idle as I said and with screw all the way in the idle wouldn't drop anywhere near 450

 

Your setting the tps correctly the center wire is blk. Sounds like you need to look for vacuum leaks with a unlit propane torch or carb/choke cleaner.
While doing the min idle speed setting make sure your iac is commanded in and unplugged.
http://www.iroczone.com/2009/10/adju...ir-idle-speed/

 

Ok I'll do that would that cause the engine to run scrappy with maf conected

 

And since I couldn't get the tps any lower then 2.3 ohms do you think its bad

 

Sounds like it's bad it should be .54 volts and set after the min idle speed.
The code 44- This code will be set whenever the ecm perceives a lean exhaust condition. The main causes for this is a grounded O2 sensor (purple wire) , low fuel pressure, restricted injectors, contaminated fuel, exhaust leaks or bad air switching valve. The condition met to set the code is a low O2output voltage (less than 0.2V)around a minute with the ecm is closed loop.

 

I know when I followed the directs on here I could feel the iac Buzz and then I unpluged it but what 's commanding it in the link won't work

 

I'm surprised you don't have a code 21, tps signal high.
Tps over 2.5v when airflow is less than 15 grams per second.

 

Your doing it correctly

 

I didn't get a 21 Mabry I missed it but I don't think I did

 

I just did a complete intake gasket kit on it a few weeks ago are their any area that are trouble areas for vacuum leaks on these cars

 

And also I have two spare tps sensors of other setups I got and they read the same is it possible three bad sensors or is my New meter going crazy

 

Sounds like your meter is giving faulty readings.
Tpi's don't have a a place that generally leaks. In properly installed runner gaskets and worn throttlebody are the most common point of a leak.

 

Ok I'll look all over for air leaks and I'll let you know what I find

 

I found the vacuum leak the line that come under the throttle body and comes out on the passenger side was broken complety off idle steady now just fast pretty sure it's just because I got to reajust idle tps and such now

 

And also for reasons I don't understand it fixed the maf it runs fine with it connected now

 

Cars using MAF setups are particularly sensitive to vacuum leaks after the MAF. Any vacuum leak after the MAF is unaccounted-for air, so the computer can't properly determine the mixture. Speed Density cars handle vacuum leaks better since the MAP sensor will pick up the proper air reading regardless.

 

I tried to set min idle and when I did it wouldn't start it would crank catch and die with iac unplugged and its still trying to die at lights but it runs better then before any ideas