i have the xm276hr in my 383, not sure if my tune is jacked up or not.... i guess im struggling with it..... it sounds good but hard to tell its cammed... when i have the timing disconnected(little brown wire) i can tell and sounds great, but as i plug it in it than sounds kinda normal... not sure why.... my base timing is set to 6* adv.... also she hunts idle... 10:1 compression flat top pistons/ vortec heads, all we have up here is 91 non eth fuel.

Any ideas or maybe i can Barrow a bin to compare? My blm is looking good, it shows that im getting knock but no KR. She doesnt die on me just hunts idle sometimes, and other times literally idles silk smooth and sometimes lightly shakes.
The car drives good and has fanominal power. I need help, i really dont want to destroy all the money i have in it.

 

Here is a pic of the knock its detecting but its not taking any timing out...

And thats is what my timing table looks like....

 

This is the kr its actually pulling,

Now i was told that with this cam 6* for base timing is what i would want.

 

Idle target is 700 rpm, was told this would help idle, i had it set at 650 but seems it would still idle at 700.....

For my minimal idle my idle adjustment screw is MAXED out... and unless i ever so lightly ease it down to rest on the maxed out idle screw it wont stay idling.... if i do ease it i can walk away and it would idle, it sounds super good with the cam with it idling like that while the timing wire is disconnected when setting minimal idle, not sure if that is all due to my base timing with the size of the cam... not sure if 6* is good or not, that is just what i was told to set it at.

 

6 degrees base is fine, as long as it matches what's in your bin. Around 20 degrees of timing at idle would be a good starting point, you can add or subtract from there to get it fine tuned to fit your needs. For the knock, pull some timing out, maybe 4 degrees or so, data log, if its still showing knock counts, I would consider it false knock and keep that in mind as you ramp timing back in. I missed what head you have, the more efficient the combustion chamber you have, the less timing you'll want in it, especially through peak torque to avoid detonation. Is your idle screw maxed out to add or take away idle speed? And what is your iac counts at hot idle? You can always bend the tab that contacts the idle stop screw instead of turning the screw if needed. You want your iac counts low, I'd aim for 20 or less,at hot idle, but it can be a balancing act between opening the blade, and adjusting the tps (to around .5 volt at idle), until you achieve your desired idle speed and iac count. And I prefer for cars with cams to idle higher. On my 276 cammed engine with an auto, I had idle set to 800 or 850.

 

Thank you for the reply, it is vortec heads...... ill look at the idle steps, im sure its high..... how would i adjust the idle counts?

 

Open the throttle blade. The problem with having the blade closed as far as you can is that it forces the iac open. This can cause a low idle or stalling when cold, idle up with ac on not to work as desired, or stall when throttle is suddenly closed.

 

And sorry, the blades are all the way open. Screw is maxed out.

 

And shes never stalled on me wich is awesome