IAC Replacement
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 814
Likes: 2
From: San Jose, CA, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z - original owner!
Engine: LB9 with K&Ns, MSD, Foil, Taylor
Transmission: WC T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.45 posi
IAC Replacement
Yo guys, I need to change the IAC on my 88 TPI IROC. There is no room to get a wrench on the thing. What is they best way to go about the physical removal of the old one and to snug-up the new one once it is screwed back in? Without damaging the new one. Is there a secret tool or trick? Thanks.
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,149
Likes: 445
From: Northern NY
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA and 1979 Trans Am
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 9 bolt 3.27
Re: IAC Replacement
Not a bad job at all, only annoying thing is that tiny coolant hose attached to TB and a little mess of coolant when removing. Disconnect all electrical connectors for sensors on TB (TPS, IAC), vacuum hoses (look all over the TB and you will see them, one is kinda hidden below), carefully remove the clips that hold throttle/tv cables to TB, remove the 4 10mm bolts holding the TB to plenum, remove clamp that secures coolant hose to intake or TB and it should come right out. Once its out find the right wrench to break it loose and it will come right out. I would also recommend doing the TB bypass while your at it, by doing that it will keep your TB cooler while driving and really make it much easier to remove for future cleanings or repairs. I would also do a good deep clean on it while its out, really helped my GTA.
First time I did this I removed the IAC without removing TB, took awhile and beat the part up a lot, it was also hard to tighten the new one up. Had to use a huge crescent wrench. I would just do it right, might even be faster and no risk of breaking everything.
First time I did this I removed the IAC without removing TB, took awhile and beat the part up a lot, it was also hard to tighten the new one up. Had to use a huge crescent wrench. I would just do it right, might even be faster and no risk of breaking everything.
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 4,255
Likes: 427
From: Portland, OR
Car: 86 Imponte Ruiner 450GT, 91 Formula
Engine: 350 Vortec, FIRST TPI, 325 RWHP
Transmission: 700R4 3000 stall.
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Torsen 3.70
Re: IAC Replacement
I got a socket at harbor freight and turned down the end on my lathe to clear whatever was in the way. Has to be a thin wall. Could do it with a bench grinder on an extension chucked in a drill.
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GD
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 16,754
Likes: 996
From: Mile High Country !!!
Car: 1967 Camaro, 91 z28
Engine: Lb9
Transmission: M20
Axle/Gears: J65 pbr on stock posi 10bolt
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 814
Likes: 2
From: San Jose, CA, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z - original owner!
Engine: LB9 with K&Ns, MSD, Foil, Taylor
Transmission: WC T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.45 posi
Re: IAC Replacement
Already did the coolant bypass.
Member
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 117
Likes: 29
From: Michigan
Car: "Barn find" 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: IAC Replacement
I use plumbing sockets like these:
Shower Valve Socket Wrench Set (harborfreight.com)
They are sheet metal sockets, so very thin. I had a set in my tool box already. If you stack them with a smaller one inside the one for the IAC hex, you can put a regular 1/2 drive socket on it for your torque wrench. It still takes a little finesse, but it works.
Shower Valve Socket Wrench Set (harborfreight.com)
They are sheet metal sockets, so very thin. I had a set in my tool box already. If you stack them with a smaller one inside the one for the IAC hex, you can put a regular 1/2 drive socket on it for your torque wrench. It still takes a little finesse, but it works.
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