Switching to a Speeduino (basically a Megasquirt) as I'm gonna run twin turbos and wanted something more advanced. Does anyone know where I could find a timing map for a L98 that I can just port over to my new ecu? I used to run a 01227165.

 

Speeduino has no knock control and probably has the same wandering timing issues that things like Mega-garbage and AEM have. I wouldn't suggest you go that route on a twin turbo setup. Get something that is fully featured and is an actual professional product with real developers. The cost is minimal compared to the frustration of open-source crap that doesn't have the features you need and has no support system backing it up.

Personally I run a LINK and have used them on tons of cars. Very flexible.

GD

 

Actually I'm extremely familiar with developing firmware with the kind of architecture that the Speeduino uses, and there is a ton of support on their forums, and have always loved Megasquirt/TunerStudio lol. Just nice I only have to spend $150 dollars for a pretty sound unit compared to $1,000 dollars for other ecus. Obviously it's not the best, but probably just gonna run this now, and switch over to something different eventually.

 

I've used Megasquirt, and several other older/open source systems. I'm also a former software engineer so I understand the sentiment. But once you have experienced the power and flexibility of some of the better modern systems like LINK, and Motec - those few hundreds of $ you save on inferior management isn't worth it.

GD

 

I would start with the stock SA table. Can grab it easily enough via TunerPro and an XDF file. Both are free at Mark's site (tunerpro.net). Then work from there. Can't really go wrong with a stock GM SA table. Although once in boost need to be a bit more careful and back off the timing some.

RBob.

 

I would use the stock Fbody L98 table as well. Not the vette one necessarily as there are timing differences between aluminum heads and iron, and iron should be more conservative

i’d smooth out the table and add in the power enrichment table timing adders. I dont think your aftermarket ecu will have adders like that so put it all in the main table

basically looking at 34 deg at peak hp rpm and after at wot. Ramp down to 30-32 at peak torque for now. Cruise areas 34-38 deg as a start. Idle 20-28 depending on cam and idle rpm. High rpm high vacuum can be 38-42. Pretty easy to blend The areas manually between them

 

Yea I'll probably upgrade to something better in the future when I'm not a poor teenager lol.

And thanks guys didn't even think about looking at the xdf, I just decided to use $6E. I don't have the turbos on now, just trying to get it running and tuned-ish n/a, and then will add the turbos. Still have to fabricate the manifolds anyways.

Thanks!

 

Might try this:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...ml#post6301288

 

on your post, the all in timing is 3200 rpm 32 deg. Why do you then decrease wot timing to peak rpm? Usually hold the same or even give it 1-2 more after peak hp rpm. Or two less in the peak trq rpm area then go back up since torque peak is peak cyl pressure. 24 deg at 4800 is way low unless you are considering pe mode advance tables? Is there an adder? I didnt read the whole thread.

once you get a base table to 100 kpa, after that for boost you can pull 1 deg per psi boost after 3-4 psi. Can use same 100 kpa timing to 3-4 psi then subtract 1 per 1 psi. 10 psi subtract 7. 10psi - 3 psi is 7, so take out 7 deg

 

Point well taken regarding not dropping advance at all-in RPM without PE adder. For best presentation, the table should show advance as you indicate and not rely on the "invisible" PE adder. I'll correct it soon when time permits. Also, the purpose of the post was not to address boost or every possible engine build, but rather to show how all-in SA could be set, and then how to work backwards to arrive at SA for a street driven car. Thanks for the observation and comments.

 

It is a good method i would just redo the wot timing structure (or basically timing after all in rpm, doesnt need to drop to peak rpm) depending what kinda combo it is, like a tpi car all in timing could be 30-32 in that 2800-3200 range and peak rpm 4400-4800 should be 1-2 more typically. Miniram or short runner intake, all in can be 32-34 and hold all the way to 4800. Or higher if using a bin with more rpm cells available. Less peak torque on those setups so cyl pressure is lower in the 2800-3200 range. And i usually 0 out any adder outside the main table except maybe some coolant temp tables and iat tables (especially for boost)

just my two cents. Everyone has their methods