1988 IROC 5.7 - org owner, 81k. It looks like the fuel injector feeding the #5 cylinder is leaking onto the intake manifold. This is the only one that has the "wet" look that it is leaking. I have attached a picture for your reference. I understand its best to change all of the injectors when one has failed as the other may follow and they should be balanced. Upon review of this picture I would appreciate your feedback and recommendation on a replacement fuel injector and other recommendations. Thanks to all for your help !

 

The "What is this" is the ninth injector, or, cold start injector. It went away in 89.

 

From what can be seen in the picture, could this be what is leaking (or a combination of both)?

 

You'd best hope the cold start injector isn't leaking, they aren't a very easy item to find these days.....

 

If it’s cold start there’s an easy solution if you don’t want to find a used one, get a $20-30 plug kit on eBay and have someone burn a new tune with 89’ programming. If you want a non leaking cold start injector I believe I kept mine when I had my chip done.

Also be very careful with that fuel leak, you don’t want to lose the car to fire. I would clean the area up as best you can and have a friend either prime or start the car while you watch to find out exactly where the leak is. Either way it needs to be addressed ASAP

 

Thank you for the reply. Some additional information. The car has no issues starting cold even after several months of sitting. It also runs very steady even though the fuel injector appears "wet". Do you have any suggestions on a replacement fuel injector? Carb cleaner good to use on the area? Thanks

 

Carb or throttle body cleaner would be good. When I replaced my injectors I went with Bosch 3 from south bay as many members here have done, they are site sponsors and offer a discount to members. They have worked well on my set up and I have no complaints but are slightly different than stock and some members have said they require tuning to be perfect. Also if you ever decide to upgrade to an aftermarket intake with the Bosch 3s the fuel rail would need to be raised with a few washers but that is moot if you want to stay stock.

If you want to spend more $ they also offer the Delphi injectors which will fit the same as stock and from what I’ve heard are completely plug and play and high quality.

While you are in there replacing injectors I would replace the FPR diaphragm as well, southbay also has them, and maybe think of at least checking the EGR or cleaning it. There is actually a pretty decent write up in the how to sectioning replacing injectors that I used that helped a lot. When I did this I also used thread sealer and retorqued most of my intake bolts to stop/ prevent leaks from the intake was referenced in the how to article.

 

Do you change your ring and pinion gears if the axle rear cover begins to leak? It is more likely that the O-ring is leaking, not the injector. Those appear to be Bosch injectors, not Multecs. If they are working there may be absolutely nothing wrong with them.

 

I agree that the performance of the car is normal and it just may be the "O" rings that need to be replaced. My concern is the amount / level of work to remove the plenum etc. The injectors like most of the car are the original parts. So your suggestion would be to just change all of the "O" rings ?

 

Those definitely aren’t original injectors they are Lucas the pn on the body will identify #hr.

 

These are the original fuel injectors. I am the original owner of the car.,

 

odd I’ve only seen bosch and Rochester multecs oem not Lucas.

 

Is there a way of determining the flow rate on my injectors? Is it possible to get identifying numbers on the fuel injectors while they are installed? Thanks

 

Lacking any better photos, those seem to appear "Bosch-ish" except for the stripe.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...first-tpi.html
@streetlethal id guess 22#hr

 

The numbers are often on the bottom shell of the injector, where it would be very difficult to position a mirror to read the identification. It is most likely that stock injectors are 22 lb/hr.

 

I see - Clearly Lucas in your linked thread.

 

Hi - So I am finally at the point where I am going to change the injectors. I am at the point where I have removed the 4 bolts securing the flue rail. I have also disconnected the two fuel lines and the 9th injected connection at the rear of the rail. My problem now is the rail doesn't want to lift up / off the manifold. Have you seen where this can be "stucK"? These are the original fuel injectors. Please review and reply back ASAP. Thanks for all of your help

 

It sounds like you have everything disconnected, I'm not sure about the 9th injector as I don't have one. Try squirting a little penetrating oil at the o-rings, grip a corner fuel injector directly and tug a little. I'm guessing the o-rings are just very stuck in there.

 

Isn’t there retaining clips on each injector on the originals? I didn’t see where the OP mentioned that.

 

The retaining clips are on the fuel rail side. Mine are stuck in the manifold and I cant lift the assembly up.

 

An update: A few drops of 3-1 oil at the base of each injector freed them up from the manifold.. I was able to find replacement Lucas injectors on Rockauto.com. Once received and a free weekend I will work on reassembly. Any good recommendation on what to put on the "O" rings of the new injectors during assembly? Thanks

 

Glad to hear you got them out. When I did mine I used Dawn dish soap as recommended by Southbay Fuel Injectors, it worked great. I know with Bosch 3s when you install they go in the intake base first, not rail.

Just remember when putting it back together to leak check after the rail and fuel lines are re-installed.

Also it’s a great time to check the torque on the intake manifold and add thread sealer on those intake bolts if they are leaking oil.

 

Thanks for your reply. If I was to install the new Lucas injectors first into the manifold, are you saying not to use/install the top rail retaining clips?

 

For the Bosch you do not use the clips but on yours re-use them. You may also install into the rail first and not intake base, the process is different for the ones I used as they are different and southbay sent their own directions. I apologize for the confusion.

I used this guide in the how to section here when I did mine and it was very helpful, he even goes through re-using the clips.

https://www.thirdgen.org/injectorswap/

 

just an fyi....you really do not need the clips...remember there is at least 45psi of pressure give or take holding them in place. They aren't going anywhere.
The bosch lll injectors have to be installed into the intake manifold first because we found throughout the years for some reason if they
were installed into the rail first they would leak fuel from the top...

 

South Bay, Thank you for the reply. With your familiarity with all types of injectors and my desire to replace my existing Lucas injectors with Lucas, would you still recommend installation into the manifold first and forget about the fuel rail clips? I will be completing this installation this weekend. Thanks for your help.

 

as long as the lucas injector is the exact same length oring to oring as your stock injector you will be able to install either way without the clip.
If they are a little shorter then i would recommend installing into the intake first

 

Update: So the new Lucas injectors were the same size (O-ring to O ring / thanks South Bay for that tip!) so I did install with the clips, fuel rail first. Another great tip was the dish soap for the O-rings. Everything went back together and I made sure to orient the injectors so I wouldn't have to twist for the injector connections. Tools (a must) long, medium and short T40 with a 3/8" drive. Also a long / medium T40 without a drive /socket. Make sure you have time, don't rush and have plenty of under hood light. I haven't driven it extensively, but did loop the neighborhood. My inspection was due this month so the motivation was to get this done. So far, so good, no leaks. Hopefully I can use this car a little bit before the bad weather comes. Next effort will be replacing the heater core which has been bypassed for a while..

 

Glad to hear it worked out, the heater core is not that daunting of a task but is a little harder with the Camaro because of the different design of the dash area to access the top bolt of the heater box. The hardest part about mine was getting the old hoses off and getting that top bolt back in. That and the ? Shaped heater hose is a real pain if your replacing that.

If your looking at a new heater core many guys like Spectra, it’s aluminum instead of brass but generally many say it has good fit with little to no bending of the pipes. I found a NOS brass one on eBay for about the same price and they are out there.

 

Happy to hear everything worked out well for you!