1989 IROC, LB9, 5 speed, 11K miles.

I've searched every thread.

No crank, no start, security light on. Can hear fuel pump.

Had PROM burned with VATS delete, no change.

Jumped starter enable relay, will crank but won't start. Replaced starter enable relay with known good part, still no crank.

Got one of those VATS bypass kits, (but for a Corvette, if it matters) at the correct ohms, no difference.

Removed VATS fuse in the convenience center, (security light goes out), no change.

I feel I have gone through enough steps to bypass VATS, but security light still stays on, (with VATS fuse in) and starter enable relay won't work, unless I jump it.

What am I missing? Help!!!

 

It does sound like a possible VATS issue. Even though the flag has been turned off in the PROM, the rest of the system needs to function in order to enable cranking and injector pulses. That includes wiring, relays, switches, a module, and the ECM.

Checking the injectors for the presence of the 12V supply and the ground pulses could be revealing. Attempting to start with manually administered fuel or starting fluid could also provide useful information.

 

Thanks, it has already been suggested to me to check the injectors for power, something I plan on doing. I am almost becoming suspicious of the ECM though. I mean what else can be left? When I have time, I'll try swapping the one from my other '89 and see what happens.

 

I've watched a number of Youtubes where they quickly and easily defeat VATS by splicing a correct resistor into the wires coming out of the steering column. I'm not in favor of such hackery on my mint car. But I never thought VATS would give me such a fight.

 

You have to jump the starter enable relay and leave it that way; look at a wiring diragram. You will see that it only exists to give VATS the ability to interrupt the signal. If VATS has been turned off in your tune as well, then you don't need the bypass kit and it doesn't matter what the security light is doing.

As Vader mentioned, the next step is checking the injectors for the presence of the 12V supply and the ground pulses.

 

What no power to the injectors indicate?

 

That the problem is upstream of the injectors. You are still in the fact-gathering stage of diagnostics. We need more facts to narrow down the problem.

Are these original injectors? Was it recently running, or hasn't ran in 5+ years? What is the fuel pressure? Does it pop off on starting fluid?

 

Gotcha! For the record, car ran several days before and ran AWESOME,.Original multecs failed years ago and were replaced with new 19# Bosch's. I will check power to injectors as soon a s I can.

 

Power is getting to injectors with the key on.

 

That's good, does the noid light pulse during crank?

 

I don't know. I didn't crank while checking.

 

Did you figure it out?