Hey guys. So got a couple questions. The fuel pump in my 87 roc took a crap it seems. O fuel pressure, but l have 8 volts at the pump connector with the key on and while cranking. (obviously should be 12). Relays all new and fuse is new as well, what else am I missing ?
second question, if I need to change the pump, I'm thinking more and more about cutting the hatch access that many do. I'm aware most just say to drop the tank..it's only a 4 hour job yada yada, however I’ve had pumps fail before a month later. I’ll run the best pump money can buy but if for any reason I have an issue, I’d rather just pull up the carpet. My concern is leaks, especially with the pressure line. Cutting these and running hose isn’t a big deal other that the pressure line potentially leaking. Has anyone that’s done this had issues? It looks like 3/8 fuel injection line can work, or maybe even just making a flare fitting like a brake line. Any thoughts?
second question, if I need to change the pump, I'm thinking more and more about cutting the hatch access that many do. I'm aware most just say to drop the tank..it's only a 4 hour job yada yada, however I’ve had pumps fail before a month later. I’ll run the best pump money can buy but if for any reason I have an issue, I’d rather just pull up the carpet. My concern is leaks, especially with the pressure line. Cutting these and running hose isn’t a big deal other that the pressure line potentially leaking. Has anyone that’s done this had issues? It looks like 3/8 fuel injection line can work, or maybe even just making a flare fitting like a brake line. Any thoughts?
ironwill
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Quote:
.... Any thoughts?
Originally Posted by Chevelle505
.... if I need to change the pump, I'm thinking more and more about cutting the hatch access that many do. ...... Any thoughts?

Lots of debate on this forum and other forums about cutting access hole or doing the job properly. I did not cut the body to R&R my fuel pump, but a new debate is a waste of time.
When measuring voltage at the pump, make sure you are on the terminals coming from the FRONT of the car, not going up to the pump. Yes, you should have battery voltage or VERY close to it.
I recently installed a new Delphi pump and new "Pulsator" (I think it is called). The new pump cured my low PSI and hard start after sitting a few days problem,.
I am restoring the car and have not driven it much since the fuel pump R&R. Good luck.
When measuring voltage at the pump, make sure you are on the terminals coming from the FRONT of the car, not going up to the pump. Yes, you should have battery voltage or VERY close to it.
I recently installed a new Delphi pump and new "Pulsator" (I think it is called). The new pump cured my low PSI and hard start after sitting a few days problem,.
I am restoring the car and have not driven it much since the fuel pump R&R. Good luck.
Quote:
When measuring voltage at the pump, make sure you are on the terminals coming from the FRONT of the car, not going up to the pump.
I basically crawled under and unplugged the pump and probed the terminal that’s mounted in the rear seat back..8 volts and some change. What in the hell could be sapping voltage?Originally Posted by mikeceli
When measuring voltage at the pump, make sure you are on the terminals coming from the FRONT of the car, not going up to the pump.
Also, any thoughts on Leaking/using hoses?
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I used a compression fitting for the pressurized line and fuel hose with clamps for the other lines. Working great years later, no leaks.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CUT THOSE LINES WITH THEM IN THE CAR. They contain gasoline and vapors, both of which are highly EXPLOSIVE. Plus a gas tank full of extremely EXPLOSIVE vapors lies right beneath them. You must remove the sender and lines, flush them with water or dry air, then you can safely cut them.
Edit: I removed the tank completely the first time via standard dropping technique/removing exhaust system, etc. I then modified the fuel lines and cut my hatch. So glad I did that, been through 2 junk pumps since then and probably need to replace the one currently in there. 30 minute process now.
Cue the torch and pitchfork crowd.....
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CUT THOSE LINES WITH THEM IN THE CAR. They contain gasoline and vapors, both of which are highly EXPLOSIVE. Plus a gas tank full of extremely EXPLOSIVE vapors lies right beneath them. You must remove the sender and lines, flush them with water or dry air, then you can safely cut them.
Edit: I removed the tank completely the first time via standard dropping technique/removing exhaust system, etc. I then modified the fuel lines and cut my hatch. So glad I did that, been through 2 junk pumps since then and probably need to replace the one currently in there. 30 minute process now.
Cue the torch and pitchfork crowd.....
Yes, like was already said use a compression fitting for the high pressure line. Regular fuel hose for the others. I did not have to do a flare and it has never leaked.
Be careful when cutting the chassis as the fuel tank and lines are very close. For the lines I cut mine slowly with a lot of pressure and mineral oil on the cut area (to prevent sparks), using a manual hack saw IIRC. I believe a pipe cutter did not work as there is not enough clearance.
I plan to modify my line cuts to stagger them so that the worm drive clamps fit better among the lines, as currently they are all in a row next to each other and makes pump swaps more difficult than it should be.
I noticed many people remove the pulsator when replacing pumps. Is it OK to do? I removed mine and when swapping that pump I had a hole blow out in the section of fuel hose where the pulsator would have gone, which seems crazy to me as I didn't think these pumps are strong enough to bust through fuel hose. I fear the same thing may have happened on my current pump, as it died after 1 day!
Have you checked voltage at the relay? If you are only getting 8v at the pump your pump may not be the problem.
Be careful when cutting the chassis as the fuel tank and lines are very close. For the lines I cut mine slowly with a lot of pressure and mineral oil on the cut area (to prevent sparks), using a manual hack saw IIRC. I believe a pipe cutter did not work as there is not enough clearance.
I plan to modify my line cuts to stagger them so that the worm drive clamps fit better among the lines, as currently they are all in a row next to each other and makes pump swaps more difficult than it should be.
I noticed many people remove the pulsator when replacing pumps. Is it OK to do? I removed mine and when swapping that pump I had a hole blow out in the section of fuel hose where the pulsator would have gone, which seems crazy to me as I didn't think these pumps are strong enough to bust through fuel hose. I fear the same thing may have happened on my current pump, as it died after 1 day!
Have you checked voltage at the relay? If you are only getting 8v at the pump your pump may not be the problem.
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Quote:
It's OK to do with a turbine style replacement fuel pump.Originally Posted by gta90
I noticed many people remove the pulsator when replacing pumps. Is it OK to do? I removed mine and when swapping that pump I had a hole blow out in the section of fuel hose where the pulsator would have gone, which seems crazy to me as I didn't think these pumps are strong enough to bust through fuel hose. I fear the same thing may have happened on my current pump, as it died after 1 day! That section of fuel hose MUST be submersible rated high pressure fuel injection fuel hose. If you use normal high pressure fuel injection fuel hose it will turn to mush in no time at all.
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dropping these tanks really is not that bad at all, I just cant get behind cutting the hole.
I did a 92 camaro pump a few months ago and the high pressure line was fine. make sure you have a new O ring on the sending unit (or replace that as well while you're in there) and lube it with a little bit of dish soap. the rest of the lines are just regular fuel rated hose you can buy at a parts store with new hose clamps. Before you bolt the tank back in fully, put some gas in it and test for leaks.
On my Trans am, I converted the lines off the sending unit to AN fittings and then cut and flared the stock hard lines for AN fittings as well.
I did a 92 camaro pump a few months ago and the high pressure line was fine. make sure you have a new O ring on the sending unit (or replace that as well while you're in there) and lube it with a little bit of dish soap. the rest of the lines are just regular fuel rated hose you can buy at a parts store with new hose clamps. Before you bolt the tank back in fully, put some gas in it and test for leaks.
On my Trans am, I converted the lines off the sending unit to AN fittings and then cut and flared the stock hard lines for AN fittings as well.
I have always been a big advocate of its your car, do what you want/like.
However, in this case if you are not going to do the job properly (Drop the tank) then take it to someone who will. There is never any reason to butcher a car, just because someone is lazy and doesn't want to do a job the right way.
However, in this case if you are not going to do the job properly (Drop the tank) then take it to someone who will. There is never any reason to butcher a car, just because someone is lazy and doesn't want to do a job the right way.
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Quote:
.Originally Posted by ironwill

Quote:
That section of fuel hose MUST be submersible rated high pressure fuel injection fuel hose. If you use normal high pressure fuel injection fuel hose it will turn to mush in no time at all.
Originally Posted by Airwolfe
It's OK to do with a turbine style replacement fuel pump.That section of fuel hose MUST be submersible rated high pressure fuel injection fuel hose. If you use normal high pressure fuel injection fuel hose it will turn to mush in no time at all.
Amazon sells SUBMERSIBLE fuel/gasoline hose MUCH cheaper than the parts stores.








