Quick question on fuel pump
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Joined: May 2018
Posts: 25
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From: Tennessee (TN)
Car: 87 IrocZ.
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Quick question on fuel pump
Hey guys. So got a couple questions. The fuel pump in my 87 roc took a crap it seems. O fuel pressure, but l have 8 volts at the pump connector with the key on and while cranking. (obviously should be 12). Relays all new and fuse is new as well, what else am I missing ?
second question, if I need to change the pump, I'm thinking more and more about cutting the hatch access that many do. I'm aware most just say to drop the tank..it's only a 4 hour job yada yada, however I’ve had pumps fail before a month later. I’ll run the best pump money can buy but if for any reason I have an issue, I’d rather just pull up the carpet. My concern is leaks, especially with the pressure line. Cutting these and running hose isn’t a big deal other that the pressure line potentially leaking. Has anyone that’s done this had issues? It looks like 3/8 fuel injection line can work, or maybe even just making a flare fitting like a brake line. Any thoughts?
second question, if I need to change the pump, I'm thinking more and more about cutting the hatch access that many do. I'm aware most just say to drop the tank..it's only a 4 hour job yada yada, however I’ve had pumps fail before a month later. I’ll run the best pump money can buy but if for any reason I have an issue, I’d rather just pull up the carpet. My concern is leaks, especially with the pressure line. Cutting these and running hose isn’t a big deal other that the pressure line potentially leaking. Has anyone that’s done this had issues? It looks like 3/8 fuel injection line can work, or maybe even just making a flare fitting like a brake line. Any thoughts?
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,331
Likes: 565
Car: 1986 IROC Z
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,396
Likes: 199
From: S. UTAH
Car: 1989 IROC-Z 305 LB9 AT Convertible
Engine: LB9 305
Transmission: AT
Re: Quick question on fuel pump
Lots of debate on this forum and other forums about cutting access hole or doing the job properly. I did not cut the body to R&R my fuel pump, but a new debate is a waste of time.
When measuring voltage at the pump, make sure you are on the terminals coming from the FRONT of the car, not going up to the pump. Yes, you should have battery voltage or VERY close to it.
I recently installed a new Delphi pump and new "Pulsator" (I think it is called). The new pump cured my low PSI and hard start after sitting a few days problem,.
I am restoring the car and have not driven it much since the fuel pump R&R. Good luck.
When measuring voltage at the pump, make sure you are on the terminals coming from the FRONT of the car, not going up to the pump. Yes, you should have battery voltage or VERY close to it.
I recently installed a new Delphi pump and new "Pulsator" (I think it is called). The new pump cured my low PSI and hard start after sitting a few days problem,.
I am restoring the car and have not driven it much since the fuel pump R&R. Good luck.
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Junior Member

Joined: May 2018
Posts: 25
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From: Tennessee (TN)
Car: 87 IrocZ.
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Quick question on fuel pump
Also, any thoughts on Leaking/using hoses?
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,055
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From: Missouri
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 305 LG4
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Quick question on fuel pump
I used a compression fitting for the pressurized line and fuel hose with clamps for the other lines. Working great years later, no leaks.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CUT THOSE LINES WITH THEM IN THE CAR. They contain gasoline and vapors, both of which are highly EXPLOSIVE. Plus a gas tank full of extremely EXPLOSIVE vapors lies right beneath them. You must remove the sender and lines, flush them with water or dry air, then you can safely cut them.
Edit: I removed the tank completely the first time via standard dropping technique/removing exhaust system, etc. I then modified the fuel lines and cut my hatch. So glad I did that, been through 2 junk pumps since then and probably need to replace the one currently in there. 30 minute process now.
Cue the torch and pitchfork crowd.....
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CUT THOSE LINES WITH THEM IN THE CAR. They contain gasoline and vapors, both of which are highly EXPLOSIVE. Plus a gas tank full of extremely EXPLOSIVE vapors lies right beneath them. You must remove the sender and lines, flush them with water or dry air, then you can safely cut them.
Edit: I removed the tank completely the first time via standard dropping technique/removing exhaust system, etc. I then modified the fuel lines and cut my hatch. So glad I did that, been through 2 junk pumps since then and probably need to replace the one currently in there. 30 minute process now.
Cue the torch and pitchfork crowd.....
Last edited by Aaron R.; Dec 19, 2025 at 07:53 AM.
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 127
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From: Southwest
Car: 1990 GTA (T-Top)
Engine: 305 TPI (LB9) / 115k miles
Transmission: 4L60 (MD8 non-E)
Axle/Gears: 2.73 (GU2) 28 spline POSI (G80)
Re: Quick question on fuel pump
Yes, like was already said use a compression fitting for the high pressure line. Regular fuel hose for the others. I did not have to do a flare and it has never leaked.
Be careful when cutting the chassis as the fuel tank and lines are very close. For the lines I cut mine slowly with a lot of pressure and mineral oil on the cut area (to prevent sparks), using a manual hack saw IIRC. I believe a pipe cutter did not work as there is not enough clearance.
I plan to modify my line cuts to stagger them so that the worm drive clamps fit better among the lines, as currently they are all in a row next to each other and makes pump swaps more difficult than it should be.
I noticed many people remove the pulsator when replacing pumps. Is it OK to do? I removed mine and when swapping that pump I had a hole blow out in the section of fuel hose where the pulsator would have gone, which seems crazy to me as I didn't think these pumps are strong enough to bust through fuel hose. I fear the same thing may have happened on my current pump, as it died after 1 day!
Have you checked voltage at the relay? If you are only getting 8v at the pump your pump may not be the problem.
Be careful when cutting the chassis as the fuel tank and lines are very close. For the lines I cut mine slowly with a lot of pressure and mineral oil on the cut area (to prevent sparks), using a manual hack saw IIRC. I believe a pipe cutter did not work as there is not enough clearance.
I plan to modify my line cuts to stagger them so that the worm drive clamps fit better among the lines, as currently they are all in a row next to each other and makes pump swaps more difficult than it should be.
I noticed many people remove the pulsator when replacing pumps. Is it OK to do? I removed mine and when swapping that pump I had a hole blow out in the section of fuel hose where the pulsator would have gone, which seems crazy to me as I didn't think these pumps are strong enough to bust through fuel hose. I fear the same thing may have happened on my current pump, as it died after 1 day!
Have you checked voltage at the relay? If you are only getting 8v at the pump your pump may not be the problem.
Last edited by gta90; Jan 3, 2026 at 01:32 AM.
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 1,367
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From: Franklin, KY near Beech Bend Raceway, Corvette Plant and Museum.
Car: 1992 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 5.0L L03 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Quick question on fuel pump
I noticed many people remove the pulsator when replacing pumps. Is it OK to do? I removed mine and when swapping that pump I had a hole blow out in the section of fuel hose where the pulsator would have gone, which seems crazy to me as I didn't think these pumps are strong enough to bust through fuel hose. I fear the same thing may have happened on my current pump, as it died after 1 day!
That section of fuel hose MUST be submersible rated high pressure fuel injection fuel hose. If you use normal high pressure fuel injection fuel hose it will turn to mush in no time at all.
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Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,493
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From: CT
Car: 86 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Torsen 3.70
Re: Quick question on fuel pump
dropping these tanks really is not that bad at all, I just cant get behind cutting the hole.
I did a 92 camaro pump a few months ago and the high pressure line was fine. make sure you have a new O ring on the sending unit (or replace that as well while you're in there) and lube it with a little bit of dish soap. the rest of the lines are just regular fuel rated hose you can buy at a parts store with new hose clamps. Before you bolt the tank back in fully, put some gas in it and test for leaks.
On my Trans am, I converted the lines off the sending unit to AN fittings and then cut and flared the stock hard lines for AN fittings as well.
I did a 92 camaro pump a few months ago and the high pressure line was fine. make sure you have a new O ring on the sending unit (or replace that as well while you're in there) and lube it with a little bit of dish soap. the rest of the lines are just regular fuel rated hose you can buy at a parts store with new hose clamps. Before you bolt the tank back in fully, put some gas in it and test for leaks.
On my Trans am, I converted the lines off the sending unit to AN fittings and then cut and flared the stock hard lines for AN fittings as well.
Re: Quick question on fuel pump
I have always been a big advocate of its your car, do what you want/like.
However, in this case if you are not going to do the job properly (Drop the tank) then take it to someone who will. There is never any reason to butcher a car, just because someone is lazy and doesn't want to do a job the right way.
However, in this case if you are not going to do the job properly (Drop the tank) then take it to someone who will. There is never any reason to butcher a car, just because someone is lazy and doesn't want to do a job the right way.
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,396
Likes: 199
From: S. UTAH
Car: 1989 IROC-Z 305 LB9 AT Convertible
Engine: LB9 305
Transmission: AT
Re: Quick question on fuel pump
Amazon sells SUBMERSIBLE fuel/gasoline hose MUCH cheaper than the parts stores.
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