Ok heres the deal,
I just cut the screens out of my MAF last week and drove about 30 miles home from college and it ran great. I got home, let it cool down, and ran into town to get a set of intake gaskets because i was about to put in my new injectors and AFPR. Anyway when i went to leave i noticed that my car was stuttering and surging at low rpms, so i took it back and put in my injectors and afpr and it seemed to solve the prob so i was happy. Well now every so often it will act up again in low RPM's, i've also noticed that when i start it up in the morning it idles at about 1500. The fuel pressure is set at about 47 but flutters around 48. I'm not sure if my fuel pump is going out or i have a sensor going bad or what? Someone PLEASE give me some insight on this. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! :hail:

 

Three8Three,

I'm certainly not going to hammer on anyone "gutting" a MAF sensor on a stroker. Your extra displacement requires more flow, so you have one of the few justified cases for cutting out the screens and heat sink fins.

The problem still remains that at low- and part-throttle operation, the MAF may now not be able to register the intake air flow correctly. The screen in front of the sensor is there primarily to create turbulence and "delaminate" the intake air flow so the sensor can register an accurate volume reading. Depending on how your intake air ducting is arranged, teh ductwork may "steer" or direct the air in such a way that the majority of flow is around the sensing venturi in the middle of the MAF instead of through it. And since your stroker hauls in more air than a regular 350, the reported volume of air is still withing the tolerances of the MAF tables for a 350 PROM in the ECM, so you don't set an error code.

I would advise getting a data-logging scanner and testing the MAF reporting at various RPMs. You can check the MAF output voltage with a DMM at the 'C' terminal of the MAF, but then you'll have to scale the analog voltage to represent g/S of intake air. My guess is that with a 383 at 850-900 RPM idle you should be getting around 990 mV from the MAF (0.99 VDC)

 

Vader,

Since you frown on modifying the MAF, would the Wells MAF
I've heard about be close to what a modified MAF flows?

 

Thanks a lot Vader. Now that i think about it, it did start acting up a few days after i gutted the MAF. The only thing i cant comprehend is why it will just sit and idle at 1500. Now, will simply reprograming the stock 350 prom to match my mods fix this problem, or will i have to buy a new MAF to go along with it? And if it does, does anyone know a good prom burner in the State College, PA area???

Thanks again for the help.

 

I hear the stock wells maf flows 750 cfm WITH the screens....... thats how much a stock sensor flows with the screens removed and fins cut....... it has a lifetime warranty to..... CHECK THE SIG!!!

 

I searched through previous posts on IAC, TPS, and MAF problems and found this one,

Is this true, because i unplugged mine and she died in a heartbeat!!!

 

It probably will kill if you unplug the airflow sensor. You should be able to restart it after it is unplugged, however. The ECM will operate the engine in a sort of a speed-denstiy mode (more of a limp-home) based on engine RPM, CTS, and TPS sensors. Thsi soulc be tricky on a 383 with a stock 350 PROM, however, but it should at least fire and run with a little throttle input.

 

Cant get ahold of a scanner for awhile so i just went to the hardware store and bought some screen and made my own front cover. Its been working ok...for now, untill i get a Wells MAF.