Im getting the old 350 TPI a rebuild (150,000miles) and the performance shop that I went to suggested a 383 build up. Could you guys give me your opinions on what or which rebuild kit I should get. I know I should go forged all around, but how big rods do I need and what type of crank I should use and anything else you guys think would be a good investment.

Im planning on getting AFR's for heads, ZZ9 cam, Edelbrock baseplate and runners. I hope someone can help me out here, thanks in advance fellas!

By the way, here are the prices this performance shop gave me:

Labor $1400
Rebuild kit $900 (dont know which one)
Parts $2200

Grand total of $4500.00, sound about right for a 383 rebuild?

 

When I did my 383 stroker I didn't use a kit so I don't know which one to recomend, I did use forged all-around and 6" rods. If you are on a tight budget make sure you have enough money to rebuild your 700R4 because it WILL blow up, mine did the first time I floored it.

 

If you're on a budget, you don't necessarily need forged internals, especially if you're not going to run nitrous or boost. If you're just running N/A there's no reason to spend the extra money on forged parts, plus then there no piston slap or anything either. Check out www.jegs.com and the Eagle 383 rotating assembly. It's reasonably priced and come with just about everything you need as far as the internals go. Good luck.

 

If I were you, I'd forget the 383 and spend your money on heads, intake and convertor.

The 383 isn't all that it's hyped up to be, only 33 more inches.

 

I called the guy back today and he told me that it would cost $2795.00 just for the block rebuild, d@#n thats alot of money I could have saved if I knew how to rebuild the engine myself.

Thanks for the replys fellas. Man! I wish I knew more about rebuilds. Anyone live close to me that can help?

 

i just finished rebuilding a stroker 385 shortblock, and will be picking it up on Monday. The total cost of the shortblock was right about $2900 for internally balanced, all forged internals. Some highlights:

1)1969 #388 block w/ 4-bolt mains
Magnafluxed
Line bored
ARP main studs installed for windage tray
bored .040" over with torque plates
Decked to 9.005"
2) Lunati forged pistons, ceramic coated, weight hand-matched to .1 grams
3) DES 4340 6.000" H-beam rods with ARP studs, balanced, then big-end resized.
4) DES 4340 stroker crank, internally balanced to .5 grams
5) Lunati file-fit rings
6) Moroso 6-qt pan with windage tray & crank scraper
7) Dual-roller timing chain with torrington thrust bearings
8) Comp Cams Xtreme-Energy custom hydraulic roller cam: 230/236 deg on 112 ICL.
9) Pioneer SFI-approved harmonic balancer and flexplate
10) Lots of ARP stuff.
11) Moroso standard volume oil pump.

The labor came to about $1200, not including my labors.
Things I did/will do to reduce cost:
1) Hand clearanced the block to clear the rod bolts. (16 places: 4 hours of die grinding)
2) Hand weight matched the pistons (8 hours)
3) Hand fitted the crank scraper
4) Ceramic coated the pistons (4 hours)
5) Installed and degreed the cam
6) Installed and set up the oil pump

All this for a 6800 RPM capable, 600 HP capable, nitrous ready, fuel injected, minirammed, 10.5:1 compression ratio shortblock.

 

This is about $700 short of what's actually in it now with all the PROM tuning equipment and other gadgets I had to have to get it tuned right.

http://members.sigecom.net/smaster/89gmc.htm

 

I recommend PowerHouse (www.enginekits.com). They have some cheap stroker kits. I bought the 383-1-SK package with CR3 Rods and ARP bolts. The kit below this one was featured on the cover of HOT ROD mag a while back.

 

Hey Manny,

Keep up updated on that 383 your building using the PowerHouse kit. I would be interested to know how it goes.

 

Thanks agian for the input and suggestions fellas.

I think I might go ahead and buy a 383 stroker motor from StrokerMotor and just add the aftermarket parts that I want on there. I saw a prepped 350 4 bolt block with Scat crank and rods, Lunati cam, KB pistons, AFR aluminum heads, Milodon pan, ARP bolts, alum. roller rockers rated at 425hp and 460lb trq. for $3995, thats pretty good to me.

Silly question here guys but uh.... how can I tell if I have a 2 bolt or a 4 bolt block?

 

yeah np. I've got somewhat of an idea of what i want to do. Check this guy's page out........

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/bea...presults.shtml

It's a good example of what I was looking for.

 

gm sells the 383 stroker motor for 2800 with a 3.80 cast steel crank(better than the iron)lt4 powder metal rods and hyper pistons.with a little work to the vortec heads and a little better cam you should pull about 375 hp and well over 450 lb/ft of tq. may want to consider that option seeing how it comes with a warranty.and most dealerships will take the engine in for a replacement if you blow it and wouldn't bother checking the heads for work or doubt the cam unless they notice an hydraulic roller in there where a flat tappet was installed from the factory.