anyone removed the A.I.R???
anyone removed the A.I.R???
i need to remove mine and want to replace it with the idler pulley!
anyone done this? what's the part number for the idler pulley and how hard is it to do this?
anyone done this? what's the part number for the idler pulley and how hard is it to do this?
I removed the air on my 83, was a much different process than a 91 though... I've never seen a part number for the AIR pump delete pulley, but they do exist.
The problems you'll likely run into are finding the plugs for the holes in the manifolds. 1/4" NPT pipe plugs will thread in far enough to stop leaks, but they aren't correct. Classic Industries sells plugs for this purpose for $1/ea.
Then there are the air tubes that go behind the back of the block... you'll need to unbolt them and probably cut them to get em out.
Personally on a serpentine system I'd just leave them be... if the setup still works, there's no reason to mess with it. Its not like its a serious parasitic drain.
The problems you'll likely run into are finding the plugs for the holes in the manifolds. 1/4" NPT pipe plugs will thread in far enough to stop leaks, but they aren't correct. Classic Industries sells plugs for this purpose for $1/ea.
Then there are the air tubes that go behind the back of the block... you'll need to unbolt them and probably cut them to get em out.
Personally on a serpentine system I'd just leave them be... if the setup still works, there's no reason to mess with it. Its not like its a serious parasitic drain.
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From: In the corner of my mind!
Car: 1989 TTA #1240
Engine: 3.8 SFI turbo
Transmission: 2004r
Axle/Gears: 3.27
leave it on and disconnect the two plugs in the actuator box on the pass. side. it will prevent the clutch from locking up in the ir pump thus just letting it spin freely also you can leave the air tubes on there as long as the one way check valves are on it wont leak.(kind of messy but does the same conclusion you want)
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thanks for the insight drew, i have headers though so pluging any holes isn't a problem.
as far as the hoses, there aren't any connected anywhere on the car anymore, i removed all the parts, all i have left is the hunk of metal connected to the pulley and a metal tube that routes from this straight up into the air.
i removed the black box that sat on top as well as disconnected the wires. it flows freely, this isn't the problem, it's the constant clicking of the check valve trying to close because air is trying to get in. causing my car to sound like it has a rod knock. hense the need for an idler pulley so it will spin freely. when i had my headers installed they removed all the hoses so i don't know about any that go to the back of the block, but they're not there now.
i know the pulley exists, it's also cheaper than purchasing an rerouting a new belt. hense the reason i want it.
thanks for all the help so far, if anyone else has anything else to comment please let me know. i've tried to plug the pipe, but when accelerating the pressure is to great and my car sounds like a wreck all because of the air fluttering....i need a solution fast.
as far as the hoses, there aren't any connected anywhere on the car anymore, i removed all the parts, all i have left is the hunk of metal connected to the pulley and a metal tube that routes from this straight up into the air.
i removed the black box that sat on top as well as disconnected the wires. it flows freely, this isn't the problem, it's the constant clicking of the check valve trying to close because air is trying to get in. causing my car to sound like it has a rod knock. hense the need for an idler pulley so it will spin freely. when i had my headers installed they removed all the hoses so i don't know about any that go to the back of the block, but they're not there now.
i know the pulley exists, it's also cheaper than purchasing an rerouting a new belt. hense the reason i want it.
thanks for all the help so far, if anyone else has anything else to comment please let me know. i've tried to plug the pipe, but when accelerating the pressure is to great and my car sounds like a wreck all because of the air fluttering....i need a solution fast.
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 4
From: orlando, fl usa
Car: 1986 pontiac TA
Engine: 360 HSR
Transmission: 700r4 3300 yank converter
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
Originally posted by Kandied91z
thanks for the insight drew, i have headers though so pluging any holes isn't a problem.
as far as the hoses, there aren't any connected anywhere on the car anymore, i removed all the parts, all i have left is the hunk of metal connected to the pulley and a metal tube that routes from this straight up into the air.
i removed the black box that sat on top as well as disconnected the wires. it flows freely, this isn't the problem, it's the constant clicking of the check valve trying to close because air is trying to get in. causing my car to sound like it has a rod knock. hense the need for an idler pulley so it will spin freely. when i had my headers installed they removed all the hoses so i don't know about any that go to the back of the block, but they're not there now.
i know the pulley exists, it's also cheaper than purchasing an rerouting a new belt. hense the reason i want it.
thanks for all the help so far, if anyone else has anything else to comment please let me know. i've tried to plug the pipe, but when accelerating the pressure is to great and my car sounds like a wreck all because of the air fluttering....i need a solution fast.
thanks for the insight drew, i have headers though so pluging any holes isn't a problem.
as far as the hoses, there aren't any connected anywhere on the car anymore, i removed all the parts, all i have left is the hunk of metal connected to the pulley and a metal tube that routes from this straight up into the air.
i removed the black box that sat on top as well as disconnected the wires. it flows freely, this isn't the problem, it's the constant clicking of the check valve trying to close because air is trying to get in. causing my car to sound like it has a rod knock. hense the need for an idler pulley so it will spin freely. when i had my headers installed they removed all the hoses so i don't know about any that go to the back of the block, but they're not there now.
i know the pulley exists, it's also cheaper than purchasing an rerouting a new belt. hense the reason i want it.
thanks for all the help so far, if anyone else has anything else to comment please let me know. i've tried to plug the pipe, but when accelerating the pressure is to great and my car sounds like a wreck all because of the air fluttering....i need a solution fast.
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...rpentine.shtml
and here is the article and pictures.
well, when i went to buy a belt it's price was roughly $28.......the idler pulley i was told is under that, as well as i don't have to change my stock belt!
looks like a savings to me.....
looks like a savings to me.....
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 4
From: orlando, fl usa
Car: 1986 pontiac TA
Engine: 360 HSR
Transmission: 700r4 3300 yank converter
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
Originally posted by Kandied91z
well, when i went to buy a belt it's price was roughly $28.......the idler pulley i was told is under that, as well as i don't have to change my stock belt!
looks like a savings to me.....
well, when i went to buy a belt it's price was roughly $28.......the idler pulley i was told is under that, as well as i don't have to change my stock belt!
looks like a savings to me.....
i see.........
as much trouble as most seem to think i'm going through to find this "pulley", most are going through the same effort to stop me or tell me that i'm crazy. $10 is $10 dollars, most of you can appreciate cost cutting right!
i completely appreciate the comments as well as suggestions, alternatives and the like, if i had to resort to changing to a different belt then i would definately do so. but, since it isn't that much trouble to ask a few questions as well as be able to keep the stock belt and routing and everything else that can be effected by this i would prefer to go this route.
i don't want to come off sounding like a jerk, just like i'm sure those of you who won't accept my idea do either........it can be done, has been done, and i want to do it.
if your happy with a different belt and such that i'm glad, as well as i think you for the suggestions, it's just not the way i want to go.
again, thanks everyone who sent me the info i needed, my pulley should be her mid week! :lala:
as much trouble as most seem to think i'm going through to find this "pulley", most are going through the same effort to stop me or tell me that i'm crazy. $10 is $10 dollars, most of you can appreciate cost cutting right!
i completely appreciate the comments as well as suggestions, alternatives and the like, if i had to resort to changing to a different belt then i would definately do so. but, since it isn't that much trouble to ask a few questions as well as be able to keep the stock belt and routing and everything else that can be effected by this i would prefer to go this route.
i don't want to come off sounding like a jerk, just like i'm sure those of you who won't accept my idea do either........it can be done, has been done, and i want to do it.
if your happy with a different belt and such that i'm glad, as well as i think you for the suggestions, it's just not the way i want to go.
again, thanks everyone who sent me the info i needed, my pulley should be her mid week! :lala:
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 4
From: orlando, fl usa
Car: 1986 pontiac TA
Engine: 360 HSR
Transmission: 700r4 3300 yank converter
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
yes. $10 is $10. i see you found one. i was going to suggest making one. all you would need is some flat plate steel or aluminum and a generic idler pulley.
....
I just removed my a.i.r. pump this weekend and also replaced the
A/C compressor with a A/C delete pulley.
I also reused the stock belt (for a 89 Corvette L98 which is what my motor is )
i am trying to clean up all the useless clutter under the hood,and since there is no emissions inspection or testing around here it's just taking up space.
A/C compressor with a A/C delete pulley.
I also reused the stock belt (for a 89 Corvette L98 which is what my motor is )
i am trying to clean up all the useless clutter under the hood,and since there is no emissions inspection or testing around here it's just taking up space.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
From: Tampa,FL
Car: 89 Irocz
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 342
Hey Kandied91z
I feel your pain, I took mine out with no prob, the only prob I had was, locating the pulley though, I got a hook up at the local chevy dealer and he said he couldn't locate the pulley I had to order it from on line. Its like a chevy dealer online, anyway I don't have the number on me, but go to the tech article and they should have it on there, now there's a wrong number floating around there, The way to find out what is the right one, it's going to be a pulley for a Caprice, thats the one you want. It cost about 45 dollar with shipping but I like the look better then just nothing there. And it s a lot easier to locate a belt, in case of a emergency. I got a pic of it too I ll send it to your email, I don;'t have a post on line anymore.
I feel your pain, I took mine out with no prob, the only prob I had was, locating the pulley though, I got a hook up at the local chevy dealer and he said he couldn't locate the pulley I had to order it from on line. Its like a chevy dealer online, anyway I don't have the number on me, but go to the tech article and they should have it on there, now there's a wrong number floating around there, The way to find out what is the right one, it's going to be a pulley for a Caprice, thats the one you want. It cost about 45 dollar with shipping but I like the look better then just nothing there. And it s a lot easier to locate a belt, in case of a emergency. I got a pic of it too I ll send it to your email, I don;'t have a post on line anymore.
thanks for the pic, i forgot to update; i ordered my pulley last thursday it arrived one week later..... 
but, it was the right part and works and looks perfect, plust the best part is i don't have to change my belt! total cost for my part was a little more than i was told which came out to 32 something. but, it does exactly what i wanted it to plus it saved me 10 pounds over the existing part! for those who care about that stuff.
almost forgot, the p/n on the tag reads 1018-6167 and says pulley as. i tried looking it up at gmpartsdirect to check it and nothing came up? so who knows, but for those who said it doesn't exist and tried to stop me.........ha! i've got one and it works great!
:lala:

but, it was the right part and works and looks perfect, plust the best part is i don't have to change my belt! total cost for my part was a little more than i was told which came out to 32 something. but, it does exactly what i wanted it to plus it saved me 10 pounds over the existing part! for those who care about that stuff.

almost forgot, the p/n on the tag reads 1018-6167 and says pulley as. i tried looking it up at gmpartsdirect to check it and nothing came up? so who knows, but for those who said it doesn't exist and tried to stop me.........ha! i've got one and it works great!
:lala:
Last edited by Kandied91z; Apr 20, 2002 at 05:10 PM.
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,022
Likes: 0
From: Newington, CT
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 5.7 RamJet
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Dana44 4.10
87 setups are so much easier to work with 
Remove AIR system... project done!
No pulleys to get, no belts to run other than stock.
Removing the system really cleans up the engine bay.

Remove AIR system... project done!
No pulleys to get, no belts to run other than stock.
Removing the system really cleans up the engine bay.
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