The other day, got in tried to start -nothing. I pulled/replaced all
of the fuses & got it started back up. Got to where I was going,
turned it off, no restart- same thing again. Messing with the fuses
again didnt do anything. I disconnected the ECM from the wiring
harness/reconnected -started up again. Turned off-no restart.-
Did the ECM thing again/no restart. I finally was able to get it
started sometimes when removing the CALPAC from the ECM and
ECM from the wiring harness/reconnect & waiting 5 minutes
before restart. - The Security Light was on when trying to start
when it wouldnt crank over (I know this normal for VATS if
detecting a possible theft attempt )

Restarting was getting less frequent over the next day so I
deceided to pull the dash to get to the VATS box to check
connections. VATS fuse is good - all wiring is connected. After
messing with something I would wait 5 minutes and try a restart.
Every-now-and-then I would cross "something" that allowed it to
restart but, couldnt pinpoint it.

Then Ohhh **** happened... I moved the wiring harness at the
base of the steering column and the Security light quit coming on.
I know what your thinking, its gotta be the 2 little yellow wires
going to the ignition key... yea I thought of that too. Even though
the yellow wires were pinched just before the cylinder hole they
were still intact. Then another Ohhh **** happened... The end of
one of the wires going into the VATS part of the Ignition broke
from the inside as I was inspecting it- - I ended up cutting
the cylinder free from the wiring. I connected the 2 yellow wire
ends together and turned the replaced ignition over to start-
still no security light. - -

Note: Was able to borrow a friends ECM that's identical to the
one that's in mine... no difference.

This one's giving me gray hair that I'm pulling out by the wads!

If ANYONE can help me figure this out its worth $30 to the first
one who gives me the tip that fixes it. PAYPAL- no joke!

 

Take an ohm meter and run it from one side of the pellet in your key to the other, then get a resistor from Radio Shack with the same resistence, and run it from one of the VATS wires to the other. They're the two white wires in the orange cover. That will effectively bypass the column wiring, lock cylinder, key, and contacts... if it works regulary then your problem is in the steering column or the key.

 

And if that doesn't fix it, have somebody burn you a new chip with vats disabled.

 

Thank you for your reply.

I have already thought of doing this (mine is a 6 ohm) but,
didnt bother because - if the Security light is not coming on
when crossing the 2 wires with no resistance, then putting
a resister in there wont do anything. The security light will
always be on if it has a closed curcuit and there is an error in
the VATS system. I believe it's curcuit is open.

Doesnt anyone have a wiring layout for VATS?

 

I have though of this too (forgot to ask)

Does anyone know of a business that sells these
X-VATS Chips?

 

maybe an ignition module? my car did something similar, when i let the car sit it would be okay, then after it heated up, no start. Just a suggestion.

 

Mine did the same thing the 2 copper ends that touch the key were not touching so i messed with it and nothing, then I put the 2 wires together nothing. I ended up replacing the ignition and two wires for around $250 installed. Plus if your key has grease or something on the chip it can keep it from getting contact. Also the chip on the key will wear down after time, causing less contact.

 

Cool, where Do you live again ?

 

(mine is a 6 ohm)

I plan on getting the VATS deleted in the prom anyway

Be my guest to come out here and try to steal the
dang thing - If you could get it started for all the
craap thats wrong with it -YOU DESERVE TO HAVE IT!

P.S. Bring your own steering wheel -mines in the house.

 

IROC,

If your key pellet resistance is 6 ohms, you've found your problem. That is nowhere near any of the fifteen possible resistance values for GM VATS keys.

Install the correct resistance and the system should work. Shorting the leads will disable the module.

 

Well Vader, I made the mistake of assuming that my key pellet
was 6ohms. Actually it's #6 0f 1-15. I have no idea what the
ohm rating of the pellet is. Time to get the Voltmeter out.

If the VATS is disabled in the prom, I won't have to
worry about any of this -correct?

 

Hrm, i don't mean to get away from what it probably is, but my car did the same things when my nuetral safety switch was going out.

 

Was the Security light on for you inop nuetral safety switch ?

 

False. The ECM only prevents the injectors from firing when the VATS security test has failed.

The starter interlock relay is controlled by the VATS module not the ECM.

If you have a no crank situation and the security light is on, there is a problem with VATS system not the ECM.

The system first measures the key resistance, if the test passes the VATS module triggers the starter interlock relay (allowing cranking) and it also sends a signal to the ECM telling it that its ok to fire the injectors.

 

Can't I just replace the starter interlock relay with one from
a non-VATS 88' TPI car to fix the problem?

 

The pre VATS cars don't have a starter interlock relay. Without VATS there is no reason to have such a relay.

You could jumper the relay to bypass it.

IMHO finding the correct resistor is the easiest option, IF you don't want the theft protection VATS offers.

 

All the VATS module does is provide a ground to the starter enable relay. Burn a new chip, take the thin green wire at the starter relay and connect it to ground.

 

Was the Security light on for you inop nuetral safety switch ?[B]



Actually, now that i think of it yes. Because we rewired the whole dash looking for something wrong with vats and such. The car would only start if i'd jump it, or if i'd let it sit.