...no fuel. Everything is appearantly working, it has spark ect. I even hooked the thing up to the scanner aka laptop and with Key on Engine off, I got readings. If I move the throttle it shows in the tps field. I think the injectors are not pulsing. I verified that with the DVOM wile cranking. I tried manually pulsing the injectors then cranking it, it fires for a second and then dies, so I think all else is good.

The question is what would cause the ecm not to pulse the injectors. I suspect that it might be VATS. I used winbin to disable the VATS flag and still nothing. What else might cause this.

The ecm is a 165 ecm. I have two of them one original, one new refurb, and they both behave exactly the same. I am using 24# LS1 injectors, could that be a problem?

Just to try something, I supplied ground to the VATS pin on the ecm, still nothing. What signal does the VATS module send to the ecm, +12V maybe? The 82' does not have vats so I have to disable it. What is the b7 flag under the "VATS & tranny type" folder?

In case you want to check here is the BIN I am using.

I'm going to post this in DIY-PROM forum also.

Thanks in advance.

(so close to running I can feel it!!!)

 

I wasnt aware that LS1 injectors could be used... if I were you, I would definatley look into that. LT1 injectors will work just fine, but not sure about the LS1's.
Good Luck!

 

Does anyone know what the resistance of TPI injectors is? They are dimensionally the same, but I wonder if the resistance might be different, and be a problem.

 

The resistance is 12-16 ohms.

Running 12+ to the VATS pin or grounding it will do squat. You need the box or a degree in electronics.

Check all your wiring, especially the grounds on the engine. Theres like 6 of them at the back of the heads.

 

Yea, there is 3 on the driver side head, and two on the pass side head, one of which is tan. Does anyone know what those on the pass side head go to, especially the tan one? Tan as ground? Do any of these go to the distributor? All the grounds that supply the ecm have been varified at the ecm.

thanks for the education on the VATS. Someone in the DIY-Prom board said that it was a square wave. Gee, I must have left my function generator in the physics lab, Oh, it wasn't mine.

Thanks for the replies, Round four:

Greenshamrock: nothing
82' Camaro: 3

 

What?? did you say tan wire grounded? That is probably the distributer bypass wire. If it is, that engine will never start.
Check to see if it is REALLY tan with a black tracer. And trace it to see if it is the distr. wire. Read my DIY-PROM post.
J

 

I dont think thats what he has grounded. There is a tan colored wire back there (its more brown than tan but anyway) that is used as a ground.

 

Thats right, This is a factory uncut wire harness. I have no idea why they made one of those grounds tan/brown.

Well, got to the bottom of the injector problem. I hooked the injector (+) supplies from a source that is on during key in on position, but shuts off during cranking. So I go to fire it, and it cranks a while, then fires, then runs for a sec or two, and then dies. If I shut the key off and try again, it does the same thing. So now the injectors are pulsing, but still acting funny.

So I plugged in Winaldl, and went for it. The thing still showed no RPM, even when it fired up, the cars tach showed ~1100 rpm, but winaldl showed zero! That is suggesting that the distributor module is not working right, or a connection to the ecm is bad. Winaldl did show the mass air go to ~28 g/s momentarily. So the other stuff seems to be working.

anyone else have the mass air system on a 383, did you have idle/starting probs?

I'm sure I'll have to mod base pulse width, and cranking pulse width in the eprom. The thing should continue to run though, so I'll have to check that damn module.

 

The 12 Volts going to the injectors has nothing to do with the distributor or ECM, just the ignition switch.
J

 

ITS ALIVE, ITS ALIVE, ITS AAAALLLLLIIIIIIIIIIIIIVVVVVEEEEE!


sounds awesome too! It revs up so damn fast, that you can hardly see the tach needle. Have not reved it past 4000, since new engine. Can't wait to drive this damn thing! I still have brakes to bleed, put hood on ect.

I put a new distributor module in it and it still would not fire. However, I checked the purple-white wire at the the ecm, and it pulsed the voltmeter while cranking, the other did not.

Next, the BIN I was using was no good, DON'T TRUST THAT THE STUFF YOU DOWNLOAD IS AUTOMATICALLY GOOD. So thinking it was VATS, I tried an 86' BIN. Fired right up. So I tried an 88 bin, disabled the VATS, and that worked too. I concluded that the the copy of the APYP bin I have is BAD. So I tried an 89' 305 manual bin I had laying around in the hard drive, disabled the VATS, and it was slow to fire, but came to life.

So now on to the eprom burning.

By the way, J, Saturn, Greg, and anyone else, thanks for the input. Irocz, try look into the module.

 

That's good news. BTW, I don't think the distr. module was bad because it was doing what it was supposed to do by pulsing the prp/wht wire.
Since the wht wire had no pulses, that instantly indicates the wire or ECM/PROM is manfuctioning. The ECM controls this wire.
Cheers,
J