Clutch pack clearances
Clutch pack clearances
I know all about clutch pack clearance, but its good to get some non-OEM biased points of views once in a while
I'm trying to find out what the reccomended clearances are for the Foward Clutches and the 3-4 clutches.
Stock Specs are:
OEM Foward: .030"-.063"
OEM 3-4: .060"-.094
At work, I'm obligated to run the clearances specified in the service manual (see above), however, "other" transmissions, I can do what I want, and I usually run about .035" on the 3-4's and about .045" on the Fowards.
Most of these transmissions have the TransGo HiRev springs, and usually have a 9-clutch 3-4 setup. I have seen recommended 3-4 clearance (right out of the Hi-Rev springs instructions) state .015"-.035". That seems kinda tight (.015")
With that in mind, what are some non-OEM ranges for these two clutch packs to shoot for?
I'm trying to find out what the reccomended clearances are for the Foward Clutches and the 3-4 clutches.
Stock Specs are:
OEM Foward: .030"-.063"
OEM 3-4: .060"-.094
At work, I'm obligated to run the clearances specified in the service manual (see above), however, "other" transmissions, I can do what I want, and I usually run about .035" on the 3-4's and about .045" on the Fowards.
Most of these transmissions have the TransGo HiRev springs, and usually have a 9-clutch 3-4 setup. I have seen recommended 3-4 clearance (right out of the Hi-Rev springs instructions) state .015"-.035". That seems kinda tight (.015")
With that in mind, what are some non-OEM ranges for these two clutch packs to shoot for?
A lot of people run a tighter 3-4 setup than stock but the TransGo Hi Rev kit is a whole 'nother animal. Follow there specs ONLY if you have that kit.
On a stock unit, Forward clearances will not affect performance other than perhaps a slightly quicker apply, since they stay ON in all gears. Tigher 3-4 can help somewhat with 2-3 flair concerns.
On a stock unit, Forward clearances will not affect performance other than perhaps a slightly quicker apply, since they stay ON in all gears. Tigher 3-4 can help somewhat with 2-3 flair concerns.
I'm not a transmission tech but I build them for myself and friends. My personal preference on non shifting clutches is to keep the reverse stock, forward doesn't bother me if it's a little on the tight side. Again I'm not a builder and I don't have access to a million different thickness steel plates and pressure plates so this makes things difficult.
I never seem to have problems with th350's and 400's but 700R4's are a little more sensitive.
I have a stock 700 in my v-8 s-10, it has a few holes drilled in the spacer plate and the fourth accumulator blocked, a .472 boost valve, nothing special. It was rebuilt with raybestos clutches set to stock specs. It was fine with a near stock 350 but when I went with a different cam and heads it developed a bad 2-3 flare. I changed nothing but the 3-4 clearance, went from .06? to .025.
Of course being a light truck helps the trans out some I have hauled some heavy loads in it and it still shifts firm loaded down with weight.
I never seem to have problems with th350's and 400's but 700R4's are a little more sensitive.
I have a stock 700 in my v-8 s-10, it has a few holes drilled in the spacer plate and the fourth accumulator blocked, a .472 boost valve, nothing special. It was rebuilt with raybestos clutches set to stock specs. It was fine with a near stock 350 but when I went with a different cam and heads it developed a bad 2-3 flare. I changed nothing but the 3-4 clearance, went from .06? to .025.
Of course being a light truck helps the trans out some I have hauled some heavy loads in it and it still shifts firm loaded down with weight.
If you tear it down, and see "hot spots" or "leopard spots" on the steels, then you probably have a centrifical apply situation. If you have them, you'll know what I mean when you see them. Stock 3/4 "booster" springs are "supposedly" good up to 5500 RPM. TransGo Hi-Rev springs are good up to 7800 RPM.
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Well that sucks, it would probably slow my 1/4 mile times down wouldn't it.
I have a set of trans go 3-4 springs out of a 2&3 kit (from another build up), they send three different types and I have two sets left over, maybe I shoud have put them in during the build up... too late now.
I have a set of trans go 3-4 springs out of a 2&3 kit (from another build up), they send three different types and I have two sets left over, maybe I shoud have put them in during the build up... too late now.
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 523
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From: Marion, Iowa
Car: 92 Camaro
Engine: ZZ4 Crate Engine w/Hot Cam
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4 with Transgo and MW 3
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton Posi
I'm so confused on this issue. Haynes and ATSG quote OEM specs like .06-0.09 for the 3-4s and 0.04-0.06 for the Forwards. But then Paul Zank in his Technical Video says "your 3-4 plates must be at least 20 thousands LESS than the Forward clutch clearances" - totally backwards!!!
Right now I've got just about equal clearances, maybe a little more on the 3-4, at 0.035".
The more and more I read it starts to seem like one big crap-shoot anyway. Is there going to be any harm done in just going with the 0.035? I don't have the hi-rev springs and was planning on throwing out the stock ones and drilling that #44 hole in the seperator plate. Also, I have a 9-clutch setup on the 3-4. Thanks!
Right now I've got just about equal clearances, maybe a little more on the 3-4, at 0.035".
The more and more I read it starts to seem like one big crap-shoot anyway. Is there going to be any harm done in just going with the 0.035? I don't have the hi-rev springs and was planning on throwing out the stock ones and drilling that #44 hole in the seperator plate. Also, I have a 9-clutch setup on the 3-4. Thanks!
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