T-5 rebuild
I did mine about 50-60,000 miles ago. Is yours a WC or NWC? I have an email from RB83L69 with all the specs...i can send it to you if you have a NWC. email me at merf23@yahoo.com
I am not really sure its my friends and was just trying to get info because its getting stuck in 1st and 5th, are they hard to rebuild? I just rebuilt my T-10 and that was pretty easy so I wanted to know if it would be anything alike?
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From: previously OKINAWA JAPAN,georgia, now new england
Car: 1989 IROC--1989 T/A
Engine: 5.7 TPI in both
Transmission: W/C T-5 in both
Axle/Gears: B/W 3.27 in both
with snapring pliers, and a hyd press, you should be able to turn it around in 4-6 hours.
There is a video that is avaiable, and the narrator does a complete tear down rebuild in 2 hrs.
Then add 30-45 min for install.
This is about an hour off of my total time.
shaggy
There is a video that is avaiable, and the narrator does a complete tear down rebuild in 2 hrs.
Then add 30-45 min for install.
This is about an hour off of my total time.
shaggy
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 6
From: Vancouver, WA
Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI-New 355 on the engine stand
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton posi-Soon a 9" Ford!
I just went through my NWC T5 and can answer a few questions for you. First, with the trans in the car, there is no visual way to tell if it's a WC or NWC. If the tag is still attached you can look the number up and tell that way. But if there isn't a tag, then unless you pull the trans or know for sure what you it came out of, there is no way to tell the difference.
A WC T5 had tapered bearings on the cluster shaft, and updated 3 pc. syncros or "blocker rings". Also some of the gears on the main shaft ride on caged roller bearings for better gas milage. A NWC doesn't have these features. There is no way to completely upgrade a NWC to WC specs. You could swap a WC main shaft in with the updated syncros and roller bearings on the gears, but you can't swap in the tapered bearings for the cluster.
I purchased the Hanlon T5 video and it's very good, but is meant for a WC. I called Hanlon and asked about the cluster gear end play since it wasn't covered in the video. The guy was very helpfull and answered all my questions. Hanlon is where I bought the rebuild kit. The kit is very complete and comes packaged professionally. The only problem I had with the kit was that I lost a cluster front bearing and it wiped the front cluster thrust washer. I asked if the front cluster thrust washer was included in the kit. They said it wasn't and sold me a cluster thrust washer for $10. When I got the kit it had the thrust washer in it already and I didn't need to buy the extra washer. Their kit is a little more money than other kits I've seen on Ebay, but the answers I got on the phone more than made up for the difference in cost. Their web site is
http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/
Also on a NWC T5, the cluster bearings ride directly on the cluster shaft. My front bearing went out and chewed up the front of the cluster. That was the only thing wrong with the cluster shaft. The replacement cluster was $165 including shipping. It was a close call going through my trans, or buying another trans with the rebuild kit being $140 and the cluster $165, but I knew the trans shifted good and didn't pop out of any gears, so I bought the new cluster and rebuilt my existing trans. On a WC trans, the cluster rides on tapered bearings and races, so if I had lost a front cluster bearing in a WC trans, I would have just needed a rebuild kit and been back in business $165 cheaper.
I highly recomend the video. I have years worth of experience, but the video saved me hours in learning the little differences in this type of trans. Like I said earlier, the video is geared to a WC, so you have to pay close attention to the thrust washers for 5th gear, and set the end play on the cluster shaft with a press. Also, and this is extremely important, a NWC front cluster bearing does not press into the case to remove it like the video shows. (at least mine didn't) You press if from the inside out. My OEM front cluster bearing has a lip on it that prevented it from being pressed into the case to remove it. The replacement bearing does not have that lip, so you could press it into the case to remove it, or from the inside out. In my opinion to be safe, go from the inside out on the front cluster bearing on a NWC T5. I pressed on the case and saw the case flexing, so changed directions and the bearing came out easily. If I hadn't stopped, I would have broken my case.
Tools you will need specific to rebuilding the trans are, snap ring pliers, (two different types), calipers to measure shim thickness, dial indicator and mag base for measuring end play, bearing spreader plates to get behind the bearings to press them off, and a press. I'm sure you could get a shop to do the press work for you, and I just got an email from Enco for an inexpensive mag base and indicator for $20 plus shipping. So considering I was quoted $1500 for rebuilding the trans, even if you had to buy the hydraulic press and everything else new, you would be way ahead money wise in doing it yourself. Not to mention afterwards you could get on here and answer questions on rebuilding T5's!!!
Hope this helps.
Dan
A WC T5 had tapered bearings on the cluster shaft, and updated 3 pc. syncros or "blocker rings". Also some of the gears on the main shaft ride on caged roller bearings for better gas milage. A NWC doesn't have these features. There is no way to completely upgrade a NWC to WC specs. You could swap a WC main shaft in with the updated syncros and roller bearings on the gears, but you can't swap in the tapered bearings for the cluster.
I purchased the Hanlon T5 video and it's very good, but is meant for a WC. I called Hanlon and asked about the cluster gear end play since it wasn't covered in the video. The guy was very helpfull and answered all my questions. Hanlon is where I bought the rebuild kit. The kit is very complete and comes packaged professionally. The only problem I had with the kit was that I lost a cluster front bearing and it wiped the front cluster thrust washer. I asked if the front cluster thrust washer was included in the kit. They said it wasn't and sold me a cluster thrust washer for $10. When I got the kit it had the thrust washer in it already and I didn't need to buy the extra washer. Their kit is a little more money than other kits I've seen on Ebay, but the answers I got on the phone more than made up for the difference in cost. Their web site is
http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/
Also on a NWC T5, the cluster bearings ride directly on the cluster shaft. My front bearing went out and chewed up the front of the cluster. That was the only thing wrong with the cluster shaft. The replacement cluster was $165 including shipping. It was a close call going through my trans, or buying another trans with the rebuild kit being $140 and the cluster $165, but I knew the trans shifted good and didn't pop out of any gears, so I bought the new cluster and rebuilt my existing trans. On a WC trans, the cluster rides on tapered bearings and races, so if I had lost a front cluster bearing in a WC trans, I would have just needed a rebuild kit and been back in business $165 cheaper.
I highly recomend the video. I have years worth of experience, but the video saved me hours in learning the little differences in this type of trans. Like I said earlier, the video is geared to a WC, so you have to pay close attention to the thrust washers for 5th gear, and set the end play on the cluster shaft with a press. Also, and this is extremely important, a NWC front cluster bearing does not press into the case to remove it like the video shows. (at least mine didn't) You press if from the inside out. My OEM front cluster bearing has a lip on it that prevented it from being pressed into the case to remove it. The replacement bearing does not have that lip, so you could press it into the case to remove it, or from the inside out. In my opinion to be safe, go from the inside out on the front cluster bearing on a NWC T5. I pressed on the case and saw the case flexing, so changed directions and the bearing came out easily. If I hadn't stopped, I would have broken my case.
Tools you will need specific to rebuilding the trans are, snap ring pliers, (two different types), calipers to measure shim thickness, dial indicator and mag base for measuring end play, bearing spreader plates to get behind the bearings to press them off, and a press. I'm sure you could get a shop to do the press work for you, and I just got an email from Enco for an inexpensive mag base and indicator for $20 plus shipping. So considering I was quoted $1500 for rebuilding the trans, even if you had to buy the hydraulic press and everything else new, you would be way ahead money wise in doing it yourself. Not to mention afterwards you could get on here and answer questions on rebuilding T5's!!!
Hope this helps.
Dan
thanks for all your help guys!
I will keep a posted on how it goes if I can ever get ahold of him and get the tranny from him, I also get about the same help from richmond when I rebuilt my T-10 it was like they wanted to come to my house and help! lol
I will keep a posted on how it goes if I can ever get ahold of him and get the tranny from him, I also get about the same help from richmond when I rebuilt my T-10 it was like they wanted to come to my house and help! lol
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