OK, just got rid of my stock '84 T/A tranny. Then I realized it had a custom hydraulic TCC lockup inside the valve body. Now I have the the tranny out of my '86, which is built and not worn out, with raybestos clutches, more of them, 'vette servo, transgo shift kit, and a 2400 TCI lockup converter. But my '84 T/A now has an edelbrock intake, edelbrock carb, headers, Vortec heads, and a GM non-cc HEI vacuum advance distributor.

I know other people have dropped their E4ME carbs for non-cc ones. How have you retained your lockup? My wiring harness is still there, but it's all disconnected and inoperative.

One point worth mentioning...I will have to swap to a 30 spline input shaft, oil pump and converter in the future since the builder neglected to tell me that it was a 27 spline until after it was built and paid for...and I plan on removing my B&M kickdown valve with a GM one. Anything in the valve body I can do?

 

You can get a conversion kit from Summit or Jegs to take care of the lockup - anywhere from $60 - $125ish.

S.

 

GM offers a kit under part #24502513. It contains all components you will need to run the trans with a non-cc setup. You can get it from www.gmpartsdirect.com for $35.61 plus ship.

 

No! Don't get that kit, it's not what you need.

 

why not? it allows for the trans to operate independent of the ECM. Sounds like the simplest way to go. Or is it only for an "E" version.

 

It doesn't allow the TCC to operate independently of the ECM. It's for putting 4L60's into vehicles originally equipped with 700R4's with all of their transmission management systems intact.

 

I have a similiar problem I am helping a friend with. 84 camaro, no electronic management at all. The info with the kit says it can be used on computer or non computer managed engines. It also has a technical note stating it can be used on the 700-r4 or 4l60 which I thought were the same box. The "E" version is the PCM controlled with pulse width modulated valve body. I know they require an ECM to operate. I got the info to order the kit from the GM Perf CD, hope to hell I didn't waste 45 bucks of the kids money.

 

By computer or non computer managed engines they mean from the factory.

 

24502513 kit is for the 4L60 trans not the 700R4. Then at the bottom it says you can use it on either 700R4 or 4L60, talk about confusing. Here is the link to that page :
https://www.spoperformanceparts.com/...tml?CATID=1286

 

Bringing this topic back.... I'm planning on running a carb 383 but I already have a lockup ACT stall with my pro-built 700-r4.

I got to looking through all my old magazines and I found an article in Chevy Hi-po October 2001 page 79 that they talked about making a independent lockup switch inside a 700-r4 without a computer at all. They used a GM PN 24205373 which is a early turbo 400 single blade connector inplace of the 4 position connector already in the 700-r4. They simply swapped it in place of other one.

They pulled out the harness and used a GM PN 867332 or 8642473 which is a normally-open/pressure-closed switch. They say some of the 700-r4s are normally closed/pressure open switch. They just swapped that in inplace of the switch already on valvebody.

Then they modified the 2 wire TCC wiring harness to run the black wire to the pressure switch and the red wire to the new t-400 single blade switch. Then they said you have to run a 12-volt source to the single blade connector outside the transmission and for that you can use the Auto-rite ready made conversion PN AR-700-L / V

Has anyone ever tried this, not that I'm planning on doing it just found it kind of interesting?

I plan on having a 2400-3k stall in a 500+ HP 383 carb.
I'll probably just buy a B&M lockup switch so I can just set it to 45 or 50 mph and just forget about it for street use on the highway. Would there be any performance gain to not locking up a converter going down the strip?

 

Changing the connector would be ok if you were putting it in a car that didn't originally have a 700R4, otherwise I'd just change the pressure switch like they did and keep the factory wiring to the transmission.

 

Yeah, but the whole thing was they were swapping in a non computer controlled car to begin with so they couldn't do the cheapo switch under the dash like we do. I just found it kind of interesting...

Anyways do you have any experience with the B&M lockup kit? I was wondering if it was really worth the cash or not.

 

I'd still drop the pan and put the N.O. 4th gear switch in instead of doing the under-dash switch thing. I was lucky with my transmission though, my 1993 94C Caprice 4L60 already had a N.O. switch.

I haven't tried the B&M lockup arrangement myself. I'm just using the 4th gear switch to lock up the transmission only in O/D and it works fine, I don't know if the speed sensor is all that necessary

 

Ok, sorry if I keep asking but I'm a little confused now, the N.O switch I'm guessing means the pn I refered to earlier as

"used a GM PN 867332 or 8642473 which is a normally-open/pressure-closed switch"

so I put this in could I get automatic lockup in 4th gear without a switch? I just don't like the whole idea of messing with switch under the dash thing... I probably forget and fry out the lockup clutch. I'm just looking for a cheap way I could make it so I can get lockup without a computer without a switch.

 

There are a couple of ways to do it cheaply, you can do a little rewiring inside the transmission and replace the 4th gear switch with the N.O. one, or if you don't want to drop the pan you could wire up a relay on the outside.

 

try this site, www.technicalevolution.com Ken has an article and diagrams for what you want to do

 

K, thanks... looks like a good plan.... heavy throttle it will unlock or when you hit the brakes it will unlock.... otherwize it just goes into a Normally Closed switch with grounded solenid which is connected to a hot wire so you get lockup in 4th.

 

Why not just use a hydraulic lockup kit?

 

Now I am really confused! I have been sitting on my project as well because someone mentioned the GM kit is not want I want. looking at the TCC control it seems to me it is the correct way to go. I was under the impression that all vehicles that came with a 700r4 were using an ECM. In the stock setup the ECM with the proper VSS info initiates TCC lock with the brake and pressure switches properly set. The GM kit uses a normally closed 4th switch and the only other variable is the presence of the brake switch. It's about as straightforeward as you can get. Based on the diagrams from several sources the GM kit should do exactly what it says. I can't believe them making such a blunder and based on the schematics they didn't.